Vulcan 25 loosing air overnight…any advice?
So i aired it up to 210 Bar Friday, came home tonight and it’s down to 80 Bar. Any ideas on why? Just aired back up to 210 tonight and will check in morning. When airing I can hear hiss close to the bolt and action area, after airing up and removing the probe the hiss is barely detectable. 😥
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Oh and By the way……I’m sure that O’l :hoot: will probably refer to me as some sort of…. SM….. or he’ll use some other creative adjective to generate some 😆 😆 😆 and that’s OK I appreciate all that I’ve learned on TAG and his humor! Who knows with specific instructions on how to remove the AT, maybe I would endeavor to do it.
Ernest,
I appreciate your reply and you reaching out to help me :8: :8: . As simple as it sounds to some who have run down these type of problems with PCP guns before, I personally am not very comfortable doing so. While I removed the stock easily enough that is as far as I got simply because I did not want to accidentally ruin my Vulcan. I do not mind sending my beloved airgun to you for your diagnosis and repair; would you PM me with costs, location ect.?
Thanks, Dennis
its my none tuning day, after this I may not be here in days
Ernest you should get a 1 900 # and start charging for this shit :fishing:
Your wasting time in getting her fix!
!. The .25 cal don’t have a brass spring retainer to prevent the hammer and spring from pressing on the VS open, so you need to cock the gun and fill to 50b then uncock continue filling to 220 bar, you need that much pressure to reseal the VS at times.
2. remove AT dunk in water one end at a time make sure the leak hole is up right so you can see them. here are the spots you need to look—-ifs it leaking you will see a bubble in 10 sec.
1. the gauge end: gauge area, fill hole and vent hole on the AT
2. other end: firing valve TP hole, bleed screw, vent hole for the reg and firing valve end cap.
by doing this you will cover all possible area it would leak.
that’s what I do when I leak test multiple AT, so need to locate or don’t want to see air bubbles fast. don’t try soap dish—has a lot of bubbles and hard to see slow leaks and vary corrosive to metals.
cant go any further till you locate the leak—and this is the fastest way. so get going!
Did u miss this post????
I don’t think it would be bad at all to shoot…. it might help. Sounds like there maybe some dirt or something lodged under your valve stem and not letting it seal.
shoot the snots out of it …
Then put a balloon over the shroud end. and make sure the bolt is closed. (U may have to take the shroud off and put it over the barrel itself)
if it blows up the baloon you know your valve is leaking
Did you cock the gun to take the hammer pressure off of the (open) valve first (to close it), then try and refill.
Dry fire it, blast it out a bit and see if it helps blowout any debris on the valve seat if any.
You need to verify where the leak is, the balloon over the shroud end works if you have a balloon.
If it’s leaking that fast with the bolt closed place the muzzle end in a cup of water.
If not, you’ll need to remove the AT and you may need to fill it while it’s submerged in water if it’s a fast leaker.
~ GKU
So. Beside the breach on the AT where the serial numbers are for the gun, that little grub screw will let air out of AT slowly. Although as the gauge got down to 10 or 20 Bar there was a burst of air that came from the barrel. Removed the stock to get better access to the AT for removal. I thought this might be a good time to put a little air in tube to see if I could better locate the leak while stock was off. No can do air just escapes from the end of the barrel. 🙄 So now I’m thinking I have a valve or valve stem problem. What do you guys think?? :fishinghole:
:hoot:
A lot of guns have to be shot dry to empty them…it doesn’t hurt them.
Condensation is a fact of life in the mid-South and lower. Wipe that sucker down! I don’t believe the chemical used would cause this problem. More people would be reporting it. The O-rings can be contrary little beasts. Sometimes a bit of silicone grease will get the problem resolved. Hopefully, when you get the air tube open you will find that a bit of grease on the O-rings, and a proper tightening, will resolve that dumb air leak.
Don’t be afraid to put a wrap of teflon tape on the threads, if needed. Wipe them clean first because threads can sometimes trap a bit of metal shavings, or debris, and leak a bit.
On the back of the air gauge, on the fill end, there’s likely a small screw with a tiny O-ring on it. That isn’t supposed to be tightened down all the way. It has to be “just so tight” so that air can get past it into the tube when filling, and seal with air pressure against it when the gun is filled. I tightened mine up to where it barely touched and then backed it off a hair.
Another thing you can do is remove the air tube, fill it with a few pounds of air, and submerge the tube in water and check for bubbles. You can de-gas it by pressing down firmly on the valve stem.
Good luck.
Hoot:
Beech gunner….
I don’t think it would be bad at all to shoot…. it might help. Sounds like there maybe some dirt or something lodged under your valve stem and not letting it seal.
shoot the snots out of it …
Then put a balloon over the shroud end. and make sure the bolt is closed.
if it blows up the baloon you know your valve is leaking
Also I live in south Alabama and it’s very humid this time of year when I take gun out to shoot condensation appears on all the metal. I will usually wipe the gun down with Hoops wipes, kinda like abay wipe that is infused with oil, doing this to keep parts from rusting. I wonder if oil from the wipes may be compromising the o rings?
Once again Unc is here to help me, thanks Hoot. I will try your suggestions. Aired up to 210 and down to 110 this morning. Would it be bad for the gun to shoot it a little? I’m happy withdrawals! :4:
:hoot:
Something is loose.
The usual places to look are on the air cylinder. De-gas the gun, shoot it dry, or let the leak do it for you. Then remove the air gauge and check the O-ring, lube it and replace it and tight then a touch more. Same with the valve at the bottom of the air cylinder. Remove it, check the O-rings, lube them with silicone and replace it carefully.
Not too hard to do. Generally a slow leak is either a bad O-ring, or something simply didn’t get tightened up enough at the factory.
If you have problems, Ernest Rowe is always the “go to” guy for problems and repairs.
Sorry no one else chimed in here sooner.
Hoot:
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Don’t worry about :hoot: he’s in for his weekly transfusion………