WARRANTY:what can you do and what CAN’T you do?
I’m going to ask A.F. this question after its been here for a while. I don’t remember reading any specifics as to whats allowed and not allowed as far as tinkering. Where do you cross the line?
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Thats a loaded question, if i tried Cps they would be going near 1200fps. Adam has his rig set to shoot CPs at 950, so Kodiaks being heavier @21.1g are going to shoot about 100fps slower. Pick a pellet which shoots good in the barrel and do your best to get it around 950/ 975fps to start. Thats about as much as you want to push a pellet. Thats not to say some don’t get excellant results @ 1000/1050fps. I’ve got mine pushing Kodiaks @1030fps to start, i did this because Kodiaks have one of the best BC ratings. Which means they retain more energy downrange then most pellets do. WOK is setup that way because he has a custom 16″ barrel/shroud setup and 950fps is what hes getting with a pellet that shoots well in his barrel setup. One question, 10 different answers, because we all have different configurations 😉 I’m at 44″OAL
Sam, you have a Condor Tank, yes? Its going to be counter productive to shoot CPs with that valve setup. You should look into maybe a Talon tophat package, AF has them for around $55. Unmodded with your 24″ barrel is still going to send them around 1000/1050fps. I should have a spare set of Talon bits soon. With that tophat setup you have more options in pellets to shoot. The Condor package is almost limited to Kodiaks, Eunjins because it shoots all other pelets to fast to have any accuracy. Alot of guys go to .25 barrel setup because of this.
Sweet, just what I wanted to hear.
CP’s are very accurate for me out past 100 yds. I use to use Kodiaks all the time but the CP’s have a flatter trajectory. I still use Kodiak and love them but currently the CP’s have taken the lead.
LOL I had to go to the top of the thread to see who started this cause i’m going off topic. How would you compare the C.P.’s at 950 at say 50 yards to the Kodiak Ex. heavy? Will the Kodiaks be more accurate? (in your gun, i know you can’t answer for me) Do you spend the extra coin to get the “match” grade. Reason for all these questions is i’m hopeing to use the C.P.’s for hunting. I’ve used them in .177 from my RX-1 with very good results.
There is a method to my madness. I find 950’s give me the best accuracy.
As a side note, how fast can the C.P.’s be pushed as still maintain accuracy?
I had my Talon SS for a couple of years and the only thing I did to it was adjust the tophat and PW and give it some dry lube for the hammer and divers silicon for the breech. Cosmetically I made a new trigger guard and Grip for it. It shot .22 Kodiaks at 755fps and CP’s at 855fps.
In the field the AA410 was much better at 70yds + then the Talon SS so I decided to get the SS up to speed. So I added a 16″ barrel and ported an polished the Talon valve and added a shroud.
Now the Talon is 42″ OAL and shoots .22 Kodiaks at 855 and CP’s at 955fps.
I also installed a trigger overtravel screw.
For me airguns are not ultimate power and I am happy at the level it is shooting right now and have no plans to seek more power.
WOK what have you done to yours? What have you HAD done to it by others? I know i’ll mess with the top hat and see what that gets me. Also I was reading Bodisdad’s post about putting in a vavle spring with half the tension. I presume it helps to make for a flatter rainbow or “torque curve” as I like to think of it. Eventually i’ll probably have it massaged by Tony.
The gun is very easy to work on and once set up properly seldom needs any fiddling with it.
LMAO. Is it because the gun is so simple to work on yourself or because it doesn’t break or both?
Thats a great way to put it 😀 “we don’t need no stinking warranty” 😆
Thanks guys.
Frag the warranty, not worth the paper it was printed on. This forum is the only reliable warranty anyone needs.
No that is fine,
Adjustment to powerwheel and top hat is about the only change you can do to the gun and not void the warranty.
If you dissasemble the gun…Warranty gone!
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Yes, I do have the hi-flo valve. I was thinking I could dial it down to around 950 and get lots of shots per fill. We have to drive out of town to get our tanks filled. With the hi-flo valve can’t I just turn the P.W. down to get me as close to 950 as possible, or am I going to have to turn it down so much that my consistency would suck? Thanks for your help.