Weaver Rail
Been looking for a Weaver adapter to go on the tri-rail with my chopped top rail SS for when I get a new NV Riflescope that only seem to come with weaver mounts.
Its designed for the RWS 850 so its not quite long enough fill the entire length of the tri-rail or the SS top Rail, but its long enough and even has the same angle at the front which makes it a good match.
Made from a single piece of Aluminum with a dovetail channel cut in the underside – slides onto the rail and then you tighten 4 screws on the top to keep it still.
Now that I have a weaver rail lower than a stock guns dovetail I should be able to get a more comfortable head position when I mount a NV scope which tend to ride a little high.
Here’s the link at Pyramid
http://www.pyramydair.com/cgi-bin/accessory.pl?accessory_id=930
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Yes, it comes with a 11mm dovetail underneath. Just slide it onto the rail and then tighten the 4 screws in the weaver. You don’t need to drill any holes – but a small hole for the set screw to seat into that would make it a bit stronger.
Hey Ninj, does that RWS 850 weaver rail come with a 11mm dove tail channel precut at the bottom (flat side) i.e. drill and tap the AF rail and it’s ready to mount? I was thinking about getting one to mount to the top accessory or bottom accessory rail instead of using the regular weaver to dove tail adaptor. Thanks
As much as you seem to be enjoying the Civic out there, I bet you can cut that 2hr drive in half. 😈 😆
“But how does it shoot?”….LOL
It is almost like a Mantra for them.
BTW Cyg, what is the news on your Rapid?
back from “repair” , david slade bent the barrel so shims are no longer needed 🙄 , theoben had forgotten a washer in front of the hammer spring, that cause the power to drop to under 40 fpe….slade polished the crown…what ever that means cause it looks 100% like when i shipped it off….he inlettet the transferport, not sure why but bluing was gone and a bit of a taper going on, well round edges is more like it, hole seemed a bit oval now….he lightened the trigger as he mostly blamed that for the poor accuracy…weird…cause i have shot careers with horrible triggers better than this rifle 😯
being that im in the bay area now…means driving 40 minutes to get to a range, which will cost 12 bucks, for the priveledge of ending up next to the guy with a 50 cal blackpowder riffle…or the .454 casull revolver 😥 or having to drive for freaking 2 hours to get to a peacefull place and shoot by my self 🙄
well with pup and all, i havent had a chance to go shoot anywhere, so i dont know if its accurate or not
i decided to mod the transferport my self…i tapered it with a centerdrill, only slightly, i shouldnt have used the chuck as it made the hole a bit oval….should have taken the time and found a collet that would fit….but now we are getting somehwhere….started at 859 topped at 883 at shot 16, 869 at shot 24, and then for the 3rd mag it drops off fast to 809, thats with kodiaks
crowmagnums where kinda strange…started at 914, and all downhill from there to 900 on shot 12
sorry offtopic…
That looks great Ninja thanks for the Idea 💡 . I’m going to look into that rail for my Walter Falcon project. 😀
Or am I asking a question out of my ass? 😳
Very possible. Don’t know Ninja’s collection of cutters, but adding a dovetail cutter, bevel cutter, endmill of proper width etc. any one of these can cost more than the part ready to install. plus the time for (cnc, writing code) multiple vise and tool setups, etc. Could easily spend 4-5 hours + 50 bucks or more on tools (depending on what you already have) then finishing, paint/annodise. All to get a $30 part.
The beauty of the lathes and mills is the ability to create a part that either is not being made, is way over priced, or on your own schedule…..ie break something and not have to wait for the mail to bring a new one.
Sometimes it is cheaper/easier/simpler just to buy the mass produced version.
Gotcha! 😉
Or am I asking a question out of my ass? 😳
Very possible. Don’t know Ninja’s collection of cutters, but adding a dovetail cutter, bevel cutter, endmill of proper width etc. any one of these can cost more than the part ready to install. plus the time for (cnc, writing code) multiple vise and tool setups, etc. Could easily spend 4-5 hours + 50 bucks or more on tools (depending on what you already have) then finishing, paint/annodise. All to get a $30 part.
The beauty of the lathes and mills is the ability to create a part that either is not being made, is way over priced, or on your own schedule…..ie break something and not have to wait for the mail to bring a new one.
Sometimes it is cheaper/easier/simpler just to buy the mass produced version.
Is it possible? Yes
Could I? ….. Not at the moment nope.
Ninj couldn’t you just machine a new rail for yourself on your CNC machine?
Or am I asking a question out of my ass? 😳
“But how does it shoot?”….LOL
It is almost like a Mantra for them.
BTW Cyg, what is the news on your Rapid?
You need to ask this about people who just paid $1500+ for a rifle and think its ok that you have to mod so it will shoot well?
ROFL, i dont get the people buying those rails for rapids…original rail is 85 bucks….why pay 120-150 for a rail where the cut havent even been anodized or anything ?
No shit… lol
If you cut a slot in it for a rapid magazine you could charge $150 for it 😛
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Thanks Ninja. Btw, love that camo job.