Well, never thought it would happen, but
I shot my chrony, fuck !!!!
I put the Brad / Blood valve in and what not.
Did not put the chrony protector up 😥 😥 😥 😥
Basically tore the gun down for an overhaul, scope was not sighted.
Shit, one dead chrony, usually I put a bronze channel in front of the chrony.
Lesson learned, I put my chrony down by the target area, 6 yards, it’s in the garage.
And a side note, couldn’t get the Brad valve to hammer correctly, gonna have to put the beefy spring in I guess.
The J3 set up is working fine, 83 gram hammer, no idea what #’s though til the replacement chrony gets here.
Ohhh yeah, MetalHead, the alum. breech got the Brad valve top hat stuck.
Evidently the tophat on the Brad valve top hat is a bit larger dia.
I just gave your breech a bit of relief, it stuck on the bigger part of the tophat, got that fixed, so when the new chrony gets here I will post some #’s.
SAW
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Viewing 14 replies - 1 through 14 (of 14 total)
I’ll re-look at it, but I swear its fitting. It was one of the first things I checked. I know for a fact that the nipple portion of the TH is sealing within the bolt oring. I’ll check tonight and let ya know.
Johnny,
The breech I sent you only has the recess cut to .500″ diameter. The edges are chamfered a few thou but it’s probably not seating all the way. Sorry, I had no idea the Blod t-hat was bigger.
by all means, not putting any burden your way, I just did a bit of grinding.
With the stock Talon valve no issues, the Brad/Blood valve bigger Dia. is.508. The bolt jammed on to the tophat.
I don’t blame Brad either, purley SAW’s bad, should have had the chrony shield up and wouldn’t been a problem.
Shit happens, damned I have been working so much and today was the first day to play, but now I have no chrony.
It’s all good, have another on the way.
I think I’ll put your bolt in there along with the Brad super spring and a 63.32 gram bronze hammer and see what happens.
I believe J3’s hammer is SS or St at 83 grams, but think the bronze would be better on wear and tear to the frame.
A barrel ridding hammer would be tits.
Any one mess around with the concept yet ?
Speak up, let’s hear about it.
SAW
Drum, over in scotland is making the ‘barrel riding hammers’.
http://www.leupyscustomshop.co.uk/content/gallery.php?twg_album=hammers
I’ve got one on the way, also found some springs inbetween Selph’s spring and the stock spring which is way to light for the Blod valve. If your gonna continue to use the stock spring, stick 1/2″ worth of spacer in there between the PW & spring and cranck it up ‘PW’ all the way. I was using 1″ fender washers. Also try a starting fill pressure below 3K.
Oddly enough, the Bolt MH sent me worked fine with the Blod valve, and I measured the valve at .508 as well.
I’m gonna have an extra spring, if you want it, it’ll be $20 shipped (my cost). It does fit over the PW guide like the stock spring, and will be about 6 lbs/in with 17 lbs max tension. This should be about double the stock and about half of Brad’s beast.
I’ll be test it out this evening.
-Johnny
Yeah I definitely have some work to do, got to wait for the chrony.
Well, anyone need some F-1 Chrony parts, hit the LCD I think it still works, only a low power shot, did not penetrate.
Actually I think you can send them in for repair, so if anyone wants a shot chrony, let me know
SAW
Saw, you need to make the breech flat faced so it operates the valve correctly..
I tried a normal breech and was only getting 400 fps. Made it flat faced (got Lang to put a little insert in the breech well) and fps went up to 1050… 8)
I am dumb founded, my J3 valve hammers, screw on the Brad valve and 187 FPS
Am I not opening up the Brad valve enough ?
What is a good starting point for the Brad valve ?
Fat part of the TH to valve base, something not right here.
SAW
Sawtime wrote:
Any one mess around with the concept yet ?
I have 5 homebuilt guns with barrel riding hammers, from .22 to .458.
They all work good. Hammers are made of brass, and if I need a lighter one, it will be 1/2 brass and 1/2 delrun.
Both brass and delrun slide easily on steel barrels.
Dont feel bad, I blew up 2 cronys so far!
Mark
Thanks for the info YN.
On my stock breech with a Blodnob valve I faced off the breech so it was flat without a recess for the base of the tophat per blodnobs advice. I tried it without doing that first and it did get stuck.
Thanks for the dimensions, that’s good for me to know. I think if any the heavier hammer is going to work best with the AL breech I gave you. After comparing numbers with the delrin I think the bigger o-rings I used are causing too much drag so shot to shot deviation seems to be suffering a bit. If you seem to be getting inconsistent velocities try swapping the old bolt back in before you mess up your valve settings.
MH
by all means, not putting any burden your way, I just did a bit of grinding.
With the stock Talon valve no issues, the Brad/Blood valve bigger Dia. is.508. The bolt jammed on to the tophat.
I don’t blame Brad either, purley SAW’s bad, should have had the chrony shield up and wouldn’t been a problem.
Shit happens, damned I have been working so much and today was the first day to play, but now I have no chrony.
It’s all good, have another on the way.
I think I’ll put your bolt in there along with the Brad super spring and a 63.32 gram bronze hammer and see what happens.
I believe J3’s hammer is SS or St at 83 grams, but think the bronze would be better on wear and tear to the frame.
A barrel ridding hammer would be tits.
Any one mess around with the concept yet ?
Speak up, let’s hear about it.
SAW
That sucks about the Chrony Saw. I shot mine once but luckily it didn’t effect the way it works. Now I always take a few shots at paper first to make sure I’m confident I’ll be hitting where I want.
That’s odd about the T-hat. I sent one to Jslateiv too as he’s running the blodvalve as well and didn’t mention a problem. I made the recess in the bolt .500″ in diameter to work with the stock valve, I don’t know the dimensions of the blodvalve. Definitely let me know how the chrony numbers come out. I’m interested to see how the heavier hammer you are running works with the new bolt as the Aluminum is heaver than the delrin piece.
I have hit mine so many times I don’t know how that thing still works … I think the pellet holes are holding it together 😆
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YN-
so just turn it down so the top hat tip only is covered.
In other words get rid off the 1/8″ or so ?
And do you think I could use my chop saw ?
SAW