whats a good scope?
looking for a decent scope, im not sure how they work, so if someone could explain that a little bit, like whats the difference between a 32mm and a 44mm? i know thats the size of the lens but how does that benifit me?
Also why do most people get these airgun brains, like hawk ect, rather than a real rifle scope like leopuld nikon ect. ?
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well im used to real guns, ive adjusted scopes to hit at the range im shooting at, but thats it, and once they were set we never touched them again. I really have no idea what u guys are saying, that tape picture just posted makes no sense to me at all. So from what im gathering so far is that airguns, have “lots” of bullet drop, so a change from 20 yards to 50 yards would require lots of adjustment, and even more from 50 to 100 yards, but if i have some tape, with numbers, or mil dots, this can all be figuered out quickly.
With mil dots, im guessing, each line is 10 yards or something, so the further out the shot, the more dots i move down, if theres wind, then i use a left or right dot to adjust for that as well. So im guessing that would be one downfall to what the last guy posted, without mil dots u can’t really adjust for wind. But couldn’t i use mil dots and that guys tape?
As for mil dots, it sounds like some of them arn’t nearly as good as others, so how would i figuer out which ones are decent enough? i assume most manufactorers arn’t just going to come out and tell me their scopes are crap, or their mil dots don’t change size with zoom, ect
X2 with OG..I like my Hawke its a 8x32x56 a big heavy monster
A review of the 4x16x50
OG/Ted wrote
(I then put the numbers into Hawke’s free Chairgun software. Chairgun will then show you the needed hold over for the yards to the target. Once Chairgun provides me the numbers, I have it print up enlarged scope cap hold over charts. I print out 20X, 15X and 10 cards and tape them to the side of my Matadors. )
This is exactly what I have been doing for the past 4-5 years. I have seen the light and have now become an evil TURRET TICKER.
I like it, here is why.
No more: 3 or 4 printouts of diff scope powers…gone
No more: what the heck do I do at 13x? or 24x..gone
No more: Damn, I forgot the 1.5 mil dot holdover
No more: Iphone app
Ted your already there!
Just print out a Scope tape with Chairgun
Here is what a Turret tape looks like
Those numbers on the tape are in YARDS.
You don’t have to count clicks at all. Or figure anything out. Your there!
You just get your yardage and turn to it…done!
The beauty of this setup is simple.
When you adjust your turret you are re-adjusting the guns zero.
A gun zeroed in for 50 yard ,whether its at 5x or 20x its still on zero at 50 yards.
The SCOPE POWER and YARDAGE do not matter.
Shoot at any power you want..zero is zero
Hi,
The scope is a very important component of your gun.
It’s the device that let’s you shoot the distance.
If you get a cheap deal, you are going to get crap.
There are many reasons why you should always try to get the best (within an affordable price range of course)
In my experience, anything I bought short of $200 ended up being replaced, failed or was just short of expectations as my skills improved.
One main problem is the turrets. On cheaper scopes, even if they say 1/4 MOA, the truth is they are not reliable and the correction varies greatly on the range of the turret. Most of the cheaper scope turrents fail the simpliest MOA walk test.
Most people want to invest a lot of money in the gun and then they complain when they want to shoot far with a cheap scope.
The gun is probably fine but they forget they bought a piece of crap scope.
If you can, put away $100-$200 extra dollars this month, be patient and buy yourself a nice scope next month.
Airforce scope are rebranded. Find a scope from a scope manufacturer. They have to care about their product. Airforce is just reselling so they have their name on it, but they are not in the scopes business.
Also, how are you going to use the scope?
Are you going to set zero somewhere and trust a MPBR for hunting?
Are you going to use milldots? if so do you want a scope with true milldots at every magnification or just at maximum magnification?
Are you going to use it for accurate long range target shooting? do you know how to use turrets and corrections? Do you know how to build and use a ballistic chart?
So the research should first be on how you are going to use it and then get the best you can afford that fits that purpose.
A lot of air gunners use AO scopes with milldots cause they can be used to estimate distance and thus are more practical to estimate drop correction from charts or ballistics. AO scopes that are cheap provide very poor information as the focus is very coarse and the lenses not good enough.
So I hope you change your mind and go for a good scope an you will never regret the $$$ you spent.
“Cry once so you don’t have to cry every time”
Cheers
Chris
how good are the airforce scopes that u can get bundled with them? think they run $150
Nice center shot old goat!! At least you shot the right crony……
I really like the Hawke 4026 20X 1/2 mil dot reticule scope. I have 4 of them. I bought a $900, 6500 6-25X50 Bushnel and I was happy to get $500 out of it after I tried it for 150-200 shots. It was bigger and just a little clearer that the 4026, but the mil dots were huge and it didn’t have enough of them for enough holdover for an air gun.
I know that the $2000+ high end scope snobs will soon jump in and tell you that you need to spend $1500-$3000 on a REALLY GREAT scope!
I don’t want to learn how to use turning the elevation up and counting clicks. I would very soon forget what the count was and I would have to sight the gun back at 50 yards and start over.
All you have to do with the 4026 is fit it to your gun, measure the center line of the scope height above the center line of the barrel, use a chrony (I recommend the ProChrno) and shoot 5 shots at 1 yard, 5 shots 50 yards and if you get really brave; 5 shots at 100 yards. At 50 and 100 yards, you need to shoot at the yardages, see where the shots are printing on the target before you put the chrony out at 50 and 100 yards to get the numbers Don’t ask me how I know this!
A few years back, I was trying to work the numbers up with my 25 cal R2.5 long. I got the 1 yard and 50 yard numbers and then shot some 100 yard groups to give me an idea where to set the chrony for the 100 yard info. I moved the chrony out to 100 yards and I then thought that I could add my very light weight Combro barrel mounted chrony so that I could get muzzle speeds while I was getting the 100 yard info. I had a brain fart and didn’t realize that the slight weight of Combro would bend the barrel down some.
OOPS!
I then put the numbers into Hawke’s free Chairgun software. Chairgun will then show you the needed hold over for the yards to the target. Once Chairgun provides me the numbers, I have it print up enlarged scope cap hold over charts. I print out 20X, 15X and 10 cards and tape them to the side of my Matadors.
If you are out hunting, you need to have a rangefinder to get an accurate range to the target, pest, bird, cat or what ever you are wanting to shoot. On my 25 cal R3 Matador long, I can shoot out to 140 yards, at 20X and the holdover is spot on IF, I supplied the correct numbers to Chairgun.
What I really like about the 4026 and Chairgun is, once you know the numbers and the Chairgun derived BC, you can then use the free Chairgun Iphone and Android apps and use them with a rangefinder to show the needed holdover, at reduced magnification out to over 200 yards using a 25 cal pellet.
In front of a few friends, I have made some crazy accurate 198 yard with the 25 cal R3 and the Iphone info.
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With mil dots, im guessing, each line is 10 yards or something, so the further out the shot, the more dots i move down, if theres wind, then i use a left or right dot to adjust for that as well. So im guessing that would be one downfall to what the last guy posted, without mil dots u can’t really adjust for wind. But couldn’t i use mil dots and that guys tape?
As for mil dots, it sounds like some of them arn’t nearly as good as others, so how would i figuer out which ones are decent enough? i assume most manufactorers arn’t just going to come out and tell me their scopes are crap, or their mil dots don’t change size with zoom, ect
All scopes under the 1000 buck range change mil dot holdover in relationship to the zoom. I think those fancy scope are called first plane scopes or something like that. The bottom line is the zoom/mil dot relationship do not stay the same for us common folk. That’s what make the Click method better. Watch any Field target shooter or sniper vid on utube. The clicking method is more precise (mil dots not needed and scope x irrelevant.)
That’s the fun of this whole thing..no longer can you take a 100 yard shot at 1 in holdover. Now you have to compensate for 1ft drop, that’s what makes the game fun!
You can do this using mil dots, or the click method above or even using something called milliradians ( I don’t even know what the heck that is)
Think of it like you are trying to make a 600 yard shot with your REAL gun.
Get any decent scope, get Chairgun, play with them both. Chairgun can be dl’ed free from the Hawke website..get it, learn it.
Welcome to the frey and the fun.
Again X2 on the Hawke scopes..a nice scope in the Upper low end scope ranges.