Which buble level for Cricket?
Hi guys, which buble level is better for cricket, on the rail or on the scope?
or
or something like this?
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How do you line up scope with barrel axis? A boresighter?
Bubble levels on a rifle are only going to be useful if the scope is properly aligned with the barrel’s axis, not the picattiny rail. Unless the center of the picattiny rail is also aligned vertically with the barrel, then you can go ahead and use that as a reference. You should always use the barrel’s axis as the reference point, though, because you want to make sure that the scope’s vertical axis has a true relationship with it. Sometimes, the flat part on the rails are not as horizontally flat as some may think. That’s why it’s always top priority to reference the vertical strand on the reticle with the barrel’s center point.
When choosing levels, it’s always a good idea to get one that you can adjust. Levels that mount on the scope tube are the best because they offer vertical and horizontal adjustability. Once your scope is properly leveled with the barrel’s axis, using the bubble level (scope mount type), the next step is to look through the scope and compare its alignment with the vertical line on a plumb line. If it does not line up, you adjust the bubble level only, not the scope anymore because the scope is already aligned with the barrel. I’ve been using this method for all of my guns for years, and I think it is the only way to get a true scope-to-barrel alignment.
For some guns, especially the cheaply manufactured ones, you may find that the reticle on the scope does not look as straight to your eye as it should. It is because sometimes the stock’s lines, breech, or scope rails are not as horizontally flat or is uneven in their plane although the scope is aligned to the barrel. In this case, you’re going to have to cant the rifle to vertically level the reticle. In extreme cases, the stock might look crooked. But what is important is that you’re shooting with the barrel and scope vertically straight. This is why it’s important to do what I mentioned above first and to use an adjustable bubble level like the one that mounts onto a scope. That’s it! 😉
I have all three…
#1 Is fine if it will actually tighten on the rail, some do some don’t. My first one didn’t until I had to modify it… Second one worked.
#2 Is a pile of shit. How do you get it level to the rifle exactly? You will need #1 or #2 to level it correctly. Scope knobs (and square parts of the tubes) are not typically aligned with the reticles, they can be off as far as five degrees for some of the high end scopes. If you level the knob your reticle is not level.
#3 Is AWESOME. I have the one that doesn’t fold out, it’s fixed and is hands down the BEST of the three.
Sure it costs a little more but in this case it is actually worth it. 😉
#1 or #3, #3 has a screw on protector that is stored by screwing it on to the other side of the mount.
OOPS! When I first looked I was thinking dovetail. #1 will work assuming Weaver style.
#2 is a PITA
#3 works well but is expensive (what isn’t these days)
Why do you think won´t fit this bubble? I think is from hawke for picantinny rail.
I found some on dx.com http://dx.com/p/spirit-level-for-30mm-rifle-scope-mount-rings-sights-107138
ON my HW100 I have version 1 from hawke but for 11mm rail. Now I´m thinking what is better solution? Put bubble on the scope or leave it on the rail?
In order for these to work properly the scope needs to be level with the picatinny rail. Once this is correct you should not see any difference.
I’ve found the easiest way to do this is to use 1 or 2 sets of feeler gauges(depending on how high the scope rings are).
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00940811000P
Mount the ring bases to the rail then put the scope in the rings and tighten the rings so the scope can just rotate.
Fit the feeler gauges between the rail and flat part of the scope under the elevation turret until you have the correct combination to make the fit snug. At this point the scope will be as level as it’s going to get.
Tighten the ring screws to the recommended inch pounds as per the ring manufacturers specs.
Pull out the feeler gauges.
#1 will work fine (weaver style)
#2 is a PITA
#3 works well but is expensive (what isn’t these days)
How hard is it to hold the gun level, get the crosshairs level and clamp the upper ring down level. Wouldn’t it be easier to mount the rail one? Then you just put 1″ level on top turret and level the scope while gun is held level.
I’m intersted in what people think as well.
I went with the second style and it works well for me.
I believe which ever one is easiest for you to focus in on at a glance. The scope mount can be tuned and the rail one is not adjustable. If the bubble is off slightly from the marks then just remember the position. I have 2 on mine and they don’t match exactly but I know when its level from practice and a Quick glance.
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All you do is look through the scope, making sure that all the edges are crisp looking as they can be without any fuzziness or black shadows around. This ensures that the you are viewing through the scope evenly. Then, you line up the vertical line of the reticle with the center of the barrel. You’ll have to rely on your peripheral vision here. 😉 Sometimes, you won’t be able to see the barrel, but use some point of reference to it (barrel) to get it aligned as best as you can. That’s it. You don’t need any special tool to do this.
When all is done, when shooting, you just refer to your bubble level to ensure that you are shooting straight…and of course, with regard to the laws of physics and gravity as they are, after all, what govern ballistics. 😀