Q:

Which rail for the Standard Edgun?

I’m thinking about adding a rail to the foregrip of my Edgun however, I’d like to learn in advance of the do’s and don’ts pertaining to the standard size stock. For those who have put one on, which one did you use and are you happy with it?

EdGun

All Replies

Viewing 8 replies - 1 through 8 (of 8 total)

Thanks Bud! Thats just what I wanted to hear… :8:

quote Exziver:

After taking another look at your picture I noticed that you have an swfa ss 3-15 scope. How well do you like it? I actually ordered one the other day. The hawke that I originall ordered did not have enough travel to accommodate my likings due to the 30 moa rail on ther R3M. I really liked the scope but it was to close to the limit imo. I suppose I could have used adjustable rings but I’m running a PEPR mount so I can get that damn camera as far forward as I can and not need my reading glasses :geekn:

I love this scope! I was disappointed in the Hawke scopes when looking at the specifications and they didn’t have matching turrets to the reticle. With the SWFA 3-15 zereod on my Edgun it has 28 mils of elevation adjustment in the turret, plus 10 mils in the reticle for a total of 38 mils. My ballistic calculators says that should reach the gun out to 315 yards. You won’t need cheap adjustable scope mounts to shoot far distances with this setup. The glass quality is excellent for the price of the scope, and once you start using a first focal plane scope you won’t want to go back. All you have to do is make a shot, measure the drop with the reticle and you know how much adjustment to make. I used Seekins Precision scope rings on my setup because they offer many height options to get the scope the perfect height for your eye. If I were setting it up for a camera like you are doing then I would probably go with a Bobro or Larue mount.

Oh and it looks nice too 🙂

quote RomeoAlfa:

I installed an Atlas BT17 rail on my Edgun. I drilled and put metal inserts into the wood so that I could remove the rail at a later point if I decided to. If you decide to use metal inserts, line them up with the two pillars of wood so you have less of a chance of drilling through the wood.

Here is a picture of mine installed

After taking another look at your picture I noticed that you have an swfa ss 3-15 scope. How well do you like it? I actually ordered one the other day. The hawke that I originall ordered did not have enough travel to accommodate my likings due to the 30 moa rail on ther R3M. I really liked the scope but it was to close to the limit imo. I suppose I could have used adjustable rings but I’m running a PEPR mount so I can get that damn camera as far forward as I can and not need my reading glasses :geekn:

quote Exziver:

Very nice! I’m toying with that exact rail as well as the atlas bipod. Thank you…

You won’t be disappointed in the quality!

Very nice! I’m toying with that exact rail as well as the atlas bipod. Thank you…

I installed an Atlas BT17 rail on my Edgun. I drilled and put metal inserts into the wood so that I could remove the rail at a later point if I decided to. If you decide to use metal inserts, line them up with the two pillars of wood so you have less of a chance of drilling through the wood.

Here is a picture of mine installed

Thank you very much Uncle Hoot! :8:

EZ…I put a short one on the end of the forearm. It’s only about three inches long, but it is working fine for my detachable bi-pod, light, and laser. I have never had need to use more than one attachment at a time, so the short rail, mounted all the way forward, has worked very nicely for me.

Further, I have found through experience that a QD (Quick Disconnect) attachment is available for just about all picanny mounted devices. Quick on and quick off, and that goes for scopes too…amazingly they hold their “zero” and don’t need to be re-centered each time you put it back on.

I used plain stainless wood screws with the picatinny rail, but I strongly suggest drilling a small pilot hole to avoid any chance of the screw splitting the wood. I’ve mounted with nuts and bolts before, but now believe it is a waste of time. A good wood screw gets the job done fine. Personally, I add a drop of Loc-Tite to the hole, and the screw threads, to ensure it stays solidly attached. Using a toothpick, you can coat the walls of the pilot hole prior to putting the screws in place. It doesn’t make any difference which Loc-Tite you use, it’s just a bit of insurance the screw stays in place, and I’ve never had a failure.

I hope this helps out a bit. A forearm picatinny mount has served me well, and when not using any attached equipment, you won’t even notice it’s there.

Sorry I didn’t get to your question earlier. I thought someone else would surely help out. There are no dumb questions on this forum. Just ask anyone who leaped before looking! I’ve always gotten solid advice on this forum, and usually they toss in some new ideas to make what I’m doing even better! Never hesitate to ask!

Regards,

Kindly ‘Ol Uncle Hoot:

PS: Click on this for important information from Plaxico Burris, football player:

Viewing 8 replies - 1 through 8 (of 8 total)

  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.