Which string looks more promising?
To damn hot to go to the range but I built a couple silent pellet traps and can do short string testing in my kitchen.
Both strings are from Condor High Flow ported valve tank starting at FILL of 1750 PSI, with O-Ring behind the Top Hat and the Condor Hammer spacer/weight removed.
The DIFFERENCE is the Power Wheel setting. The first string is at PW=4 full turns and the second at PW=5 1/2 turns. PW=5 through in a 969 fps high and 914 fps low. Other 2 digit variations in this range didn’t appear to warrant consideration.
1st String, PW = 4 turns, Avg. FPS=928, SD=4.8:
924, 927, 921, 922, 923, 923, 918, 917, 925, 914
2nd String, PW=5 1/2 turns, Avg.FPS=933, SD=3.9:
932, 934, 938, 927, 932, 935, 929, 932, 941, 932
Both strings averaged 20 foot pounds of energy.
Air usage for 1 averaged 15 PSI per shot.
Air usage for 2 averaged 16 PSI per shot.
String 1 appears to have a little bit of a bell curve.
String 2 has 3 slight humps along the string.
10 shot strings are not the best indicator but probably good enough for hunting and I have a Guppy tank for refills. Also, digging the lead out of the silent trap is a pain. I’ve learned to vary the point of contact so not stacking so many in a blob that does dent the 1st embedded steel plate.
Any ideas on the direction I should take in adjusting before going to the range?
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PB,
I hadn’t put any blue loctite on as I hadn’t finalized the setting. I had left the tank in the RV for a day or two before my last test. Would it take more than a couple hours to adjust to the indoor 20 degree temp drop ❓
I see what you mean about checking the feeler gauges with a caliper. Some combinations are as much as 0.004″ off. Then too I removed the valve stem to backup the set screws with a drill bit shank and polished the stem a little more. And dabbed some divers silicone on the barrel in front of the breech. I returned the TH to the previous 0.097″ I was using but lost about 20 FPS ❓ ❓
I might as well start over with cleaning the frame. I’d been shooting indoors with some restriction to the lead dust flow so the frame may need cleaned and lubed.
What do you use to lube the frame ❓
I had been using a dry spray but have some FP-10.
lurk are you putting blue loctite on the top hat threads.
also i have feeler gauges to check the top hat gap and measure them with dial calipers, for a record of where the top hat gap is at.for my records, to be able to go back to the location at a latter time.
But all this is general , because i was at .080 with pw at 3.3 for 14 grain pellets in the low 900’s at a 2000 fill , but with this 100 plus degree wheather the 14 grain pellets where right at 1000 fps, so i had to come down to .075 with the top hat and 3.3 on the power wheel.
bennett0y, I was trying to lengthen the 2nd string when the TH got loose. Now I can’t get anything the same.
Guess I’ll have to go back to WOK’n the TopHat a few thousands at a time until it gets around 940 FPS. First I’d better pull the barrel for a clean out. Then the adjustments will stay good for some time.
Looks good! I would run a full string or at least what you think a whole string would be. 2nd one is tighter.
THANKS powderburner & pablouk.
I think I’m catching on to this tuning business
The short strings may not tell all but I’m learning the relationship between the adjustments. My brain just does not work well on long complex problems anymore.
What you guys have been saying is starting to sink in.
With everybody’s help I did get the high flow valve Condor shooting good with my 12″ .177 TT barrel. And I got it shooting VERY QUIETLY without a shroud and with accuracy within 35 yards. Now I’ve got it about tuned up for accuracy beyond 50 yards. ChairGun shows just 1mildot hold over for 70 yards with the velocity I’m getting now.
I upped the PSI to 1800 for the PW=4 setting and got 10 shots with better SD and average FPS of 941. Powderburner is most likely correct in that I would do even better by cleaning more often and using a different lube for the hammer. I don’t think to swab the barrel until after I’ve had a bad day
😳
I’ve got my tank filled to 1900 now and will see what happens to that PW=5 1/2 string. But life keeps rudely interrupting my fun.
Hell Lurk’ you are asking US which string looks good??!!
You done more tweaking that a mad professor on crack. 😎 😆
Oh shoot, must be the heat :5:
.12″ TT .177 caliber, 10.3 JSBs, TopHat at 0.097″,
Condor Hammer Spacer is removed.
I ran a couple patches through recently. I use Liquid Wrench High-Performance Dry Lubricant with Cerflon spray lube in the hammer and trigger area. It doesn’t attract or gum up with residue. And, of course divers silicone on the o-rings.
cant really say about the string, not enough shots, but it looks to be at the peak of the curve or shot string, which is where you want it for the shot to shot highest consistency, turning up the pw will just raise the velocity,
if you slightly lower or raise the power wheel while shooting the string, and watch the shot deviation with each 10 shot string , you can fine tune the set up for the highest of deviation.
if you want more shots , just fill a little higher and your curve will start at a little lower velocity and rise to the peak the come back down.your at 1750, you wold pick up 3 t 4 shots for every 50 psi you raised fill pressure over the 1750 you are at now.
This looks really good, so dont move anything much if you are at the area you want to be in for sure. looks like you are getting the fine tuneing thing down pat .
That’s looking pretty sweet Lurk, 🙂
what pellet, caliber. Top hat , is everything oiled up nicely, it really makes a difference, and a nice clean bore with some fouling shots.
anything under 5 fps variation is really getting there.
oh and i don’t dig the lead out of my silent pellet traps , i just mash the duct seal over the holes with my thumb when i change the target.seems to work fine.
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if you use blue loctite it is not permanent , you don’t have to heat it to loosen and change the settings. you have to reapply the blue locktite after loosening several times, it works as a thread locker, just makes it allot harder for the grub screws to work loose.but you can loosen them easily with the Allen wrench. 🙂