Q:

Why a Heavy Hammer

I have made several “Heavy Hammers” and I don’t know why. I have frame guided, barrel guided, half brass and half plastic, and all of various weights. Some are really pretty.

My heaviest hammer will not open the valve above 2800 psi and the stock condor hammer will. The heavy hammers could be more consistent but I have not noticed it.

I am going to make some light hammers just so they look nice unless some one can explain to me the advantage of a heavy hammer.

In my mind, a spring will push a light hammer faster, but a heavy hammer will carry more force going slower. In the end aren’t they the same?

Mods/Machinists

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i was considering the same. optimally made, it would definitely do both.

I have a idea of a hammer with a cavity to fill with mercury, I think this would work extremely well, for not only hammer bounce, but to slow the openning of valve for added power.

quote synopsys:

I’m beginning to see what AirGunner1 was trying to do with all his sweet graphs and timing stuff. 😯 😕 There are so many variables that it’s hard to figure out where to even start. 😮

you got it 😀

This is where I got the info http://www.talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1083&highlight=hammer+spring

but they now have a $40.00 min. we happen to use a number of springs here at work so I just added them to the order.

Some people are just lucky like that.

Hahahahaha, I can totally relate.

Where do you source your springs btw? I’m all of a sudden in the market.

I did a search on here for hammer springs and with info I found, have just ordered 10 different springs. Now I have something to do for the next 2 years.

Out of at least 40 guns in my possession, this is by far the most expensive and time consuming weapon I own.

I haven’t had this much fun since my wife weighed less than, oops, she sometimes reads these.

quote andyjr11:

That kind of answers my question. So the hammer makes no difference, I need a stronger spring no matter what hammer I use.

Alright, how about this. A stronger spring, a light hammer = no hammer bounce and less noise with same result.

Actually a heavier hammer may reduce hammer bounce since it will resist the force of the tophat when the stock spring is no longer contacting the hammer.

The thing your balancing here is spring tension and hammer weight. A really light hammer with a strong spring will create issues when cocking and holding the sear when you release the safety or pull the trigger. More spring the more trigger pull to disengage the sear.

The best way to combat hammer bounce is to find a material that is about the right weight but won’t have a tendency to bounce. Think of a bunch of balls made out of different materials. The more ductile the material the less it will tend to bounce off a given surface. Steel vs brass is a good example.

Or look a a dead blow hammer that is full of sand. The sand moving eliminates the bounce when the two different materials make contact (the hammer face and the thing your hammering). The issue with filling a af hammer full of sand is the sand will move when the hammer accelerates and it will reduce the final force on the top hat.

A lighter hammer with a stronger spring may actually increase the noise since it will have to smack the tophat harder to impart the normal amount of force. The best way to reduce hammer bounce would be to get a spring that still gives some slight tension on the hammer when the hammer is in it’s final ‘released’ position.

TT has a hammer slap mod that reduces the impact noise of that hammer on the breech by using o-rings.

I’m beginning to see what AirGunner1 was trying to do with all his sweet graphs and timing stuff. 😯 😕 There are so many variables that it’s hard to figure out where to even start. 😮

What about trying to get more hammer stroke? I know you can’t really move the valve further away on these rifles…but perhaps there is a way to add more stroke on the other end???

That kind of answers my question. So the hammer makes no difference, I need a stronger spring no matter what hammer I use.

Alright, how about this. A stronger spring, a light hammer = no hammer bounce and less noise with same result.

^^ This.

Your spring is what dictates how much potential energy you have to work with.

All the hammer does is communicate that energy to your valve.

If you add enough weight to the hammer you will need to get a stiffer spring to develop enough fpe to crack the valve properly.. 😉

Are you using the same spring?

Say the stock one weighs 70 grains (I know its grams but i’m simplifying so I can use a fpe calculator) and it’s moving at 200fps that is 6.21 fpe.

If you double the weight and half the speed it’s only 3.1 fpe.

If you double the weight and add 50fps more so your at 75% of the original velocity you get 6.99fpe, which is slightly above the stock configuration.

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