Yet another Noob with a question……
Hi everyone, thanks for letting me aboard!
I’m new to pcp airguns – don’t own one yet – and I’ve been lurking on the forums for a while trying to get an education. I’ve also been looking at AirForce rifles for years and I’m just about ready to order my first, probably a Condor SS.
In looking at photos and articles about AirForce rifles, I know that a scope is set pretty high above the barrel centerline. I was wondering if that height difference causes any zeroing issues at closer ranges, say 20 to 25 yds? I’ve seen the YouTube Airforce video that showed Mr. Gaylord using a Bsquare adjustable mount – that I understand is no longer available – to compensate for the high scope. Then I found an older thread on this forum that discussed the issue.
Since I remain a bit confused, I’d like to ask this question: What, if anything, are you using to compensate for the high scope mounting? A UTG droop mount or a BKL? A set of adjustable rings? Or is any of that really necessary?
I understand the concept of using that type of mount on the RWS/Diana guns, I’m using a UTG droop compensating mount on my RWS 34. But as I thought about it, it seemed that sighting in an AirForce rifle at closer ranges might possibly benefit from something like that, but 50 yds. and out, not so much.
I ask this question, of course, because I’m really close to pressing the “add to cart” button and want to get the right mount for the gun. So, those of you that have the experience, I’d really appreciate your input.
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Viewing 11 replies - 1 through 11 (of 11 total)
Thanks everyone for your advice and patience with my question. I’m sure the answer was obvious to all of you with experience. The mil-dot scope suggestion is great. Even I understand that concept.
Just got back from a trip to the local dive shop. Great owner that doesn’t have a problem with selling tanks and refilling them for PCPs. Has good prices on new and used tanks. Seems like the pieces are falling into place. Now if I can just decide which rifle I can’t live without! Talon, Talon SS, Condor SS, Marauder……even looked at AA S500, but that’s getting a bit pricey for me.
Anyway, thanks again. Nice to be on a forum that can exercise some restraint when tolerating a new guy’s questions.
[quote/]Just zero to your required distance, then set out targets at varying distances and learn or note the hold over/under. Simples [/quote]
+1 :dito:
Look, forget clicking unless you have a high end scope. Normal scopes like us Plebs have to use even adjusting mag can fuck up the poi. Just zero to your required distance, then set out targets at varying distances and learn or note the hold over/under. Simples :winkn:
Even when using Mil-dot scopes, paying attention to the center-line setup will result in a more user friendly scope. This is explained in this article at BSA Guns.
http://bsaguns.co.uk/scopes_settingup.php
In a typical scope setup, where center-line alignment is ignored, the scope elevation turret offsets the erector tube to compensate. You’ll get something like the bottom image:
The result will be any adjustment to the elevation turret will cause an error in the windage adjustment. While elevation and windage interaction can’t be eliminated, in a scope with a round erector tube, it can be minimized by following the procedure in the BSA article.
When the scope center-line is physically pointed at the zero point, the erector tube will be centered like in the top image. That minimizes interaction between elevation and windage adjustments.
If you have an cheap scope around, that you can open and look into while adjusting, you can see how this happens.
Tuko
Yep! +1 😉
As all of good people have said…Mil Dot scope is the answer.
Set the cross hairs at a normal shooting distance….let say 50 yds. Then adjust the parallax on the scope down to 10 yds and shoot. See where it impacts in relation to the mildot and make a mental note.
So it if hits 2 midots down at 10 yds you are all set
How about you just purchase a mil dot scope, zero at around 50 yards, then place targets at 15, 20 25, 65, 70 etc and learn your hold over/under….. ❓
My inexpensive BSA scope worked out to require four degrees of fwd cant or droop. I used scope rings that had recieved a couple of passes with a large ball mill. You could also just add shims or purchase the airforce scope rings.(surely they must take this into account) A mildot scope is definately a nice way to go, as it does take alot of clicks to rezero my scope. From any sorta distance.
Welcome aboard. I’m a noob also.
On my Condor, the scope sits three inches above the bore. I use a shim under the scope rear mount. That tilts the scope down in front so that the scope center-line intersects the bore center-line near the zero point. That results in the elevation turret being near it’s center of adjustment when zeroed. That’s a good thing.
If there was no such compensation, some of the scope elevation turret adjustment travel would have to be used to zero the scope. In most scopes, that complicates adjusting the zero. Also, the portion of the elevation turret adjustment travel that is used in this manner reduces the amount of travel available for long range turret table adjustments. Both of these are bad things.
This web site goes into detail:
http://www.longrangehunting.com/articles/scope-base-angle-1.php
Tuko
Mil-dots
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Yes, indeed Trader,
This seeems to be a really great mixup of enthusists on all levels of experience. Everyone seems very unpretentious and everyone seems to get along very well. They have a decent community on here.
The forum founders should be proud.
Only problem withe these forums and this hobby is it can be addictive! But I have been through worse addictions. :2cents: