The O ring trick
I believe it was Mr. Powderburner who recommended the o ring added to the top hat. Well I finally tried it and ended with a T/H setting of .087. With a 3000 p.s.i. fill and P/W on 4 I took 110 shots over the chrony with 21.1 gr. Kodiaks. Shots started in the 830’s and went as high as 864 f.p.s. but all these shots were between these 2 numbers. All I had to do was turn down the power-wheel 1 no. every 25 shots to keep the f.p.s. together as close as possible. Good for blowing up starlings at 33 f/p. After all those shots the tank was at 1900 p.s.i. Next want to try 25.4 JSB’s. Thanks Powderburner for that o ring trick as the shots are not to loud and I get lots of them.
George
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Well you may be right, but i think that a oring could help you even at the lower power with consistency.
But with the lighter hammer i don’t know. if the travel of the hammer is needed at it’s full travel the oring may not do a thing with the light hammer.
No sorrys needed my friend, was a good idea and I think as you said I have no power wheel to fine tune things. Also I have a standard weight hammer and much lower power so it could be that for this to be effective you need the proper version of the rifle.
🙂
WOW ! sorry about that tatsumi ,
The first thing i do is get a good measurement on the top hat before i move it so i can go back to that point if i need to.
on my rifle the settings are very precise in the relation between power wheel setting, tank pressure and top hat settings for peak consistency.
for instance if you are use to filling to 2700 and shooting throu the curve and you add the oring, you will be shutting down your valve , so the starting velocities will be erratic, until the tank pressure comes down to a level that will work with the new settings, i assume that you don’t have a power wheel adjustment so this is why i say work with the tank pressure.and you may have to adjust the top hat up or down with a differant target velocity , with a fixed power wheel to get to the tightest shot variation.
other wise if i had s setting like you started with and added the oring , velocity drops, so i would open up the top hat, then add or take away power wheel to gain consistency.you can still fill high and use the curve but the relation between top hat setting and hammer strike have to be in sinc to gain consistency.
When i pick up my gun and hear a variation in shots due to change in weather or what ever i can go in and shoot thru the chrony and adjust the power wheel lightly and get the variation back down.
Any way it is a ballet of sorts to get the setting in sync.
I promise it works , Really 🙂
well i gave the o-ring thing a try, flat rubber washer and o-rings of different sizes.
Results-
1.Oring with no tophat adjustment
from a nice 11.5 fpe( dont laff USA :)) to 9fpe 😥 , may ratty does more than that when cold.
2. Same as above but with tophat way out
Had to remove the little sleave on the cocking knob in the end just to get a decent power but FPE all over the place. reduced some more and number one happens again further i go down 👿
3. Oring out
pritty pissed off as i did not realise i had the tophat in perfect possition and now i carnt get it back as it was. so every time i feel i can look at the thing again i have a little tinker, slowly getting there.
I like experiments i realy do 🙄 but this one does not like my rifle.
So my conclusion, the bloke that invented this rifle did it that way for a reason in this case.
Ian 🙂
😆 😆
exactly
There are those amongst us that can’t imagine an o-ring in the path of the valve top hat doing anything good. And if it don’t make sense they ain’t a gonna try it.
oh wow. thanks.
benneeb0y
I have 6000 or 7000 shots with the same oring, most with 14 grain pellets in the 900’s .
Voltar
what is Randyhub ‘s tuned tank, what does he do to it.?
Tuned Randyhub’s tanks without an oring mod. he gets great performance from .25cal and flat curve.
Does the oring get beat up bad? How often do you think you will need to change the oring? Dammit my shit is shooting how I want it too and now I’m drawn to trying this out LOL!!!
Well i would say dont fix it if it aint broke then. 😀
but you can get the same fps as when you dont have the o ring in, you just have to adjust the top hat out more. i think i was at .090 to .110 with the top hat with the .070 oring in , with the 32g. eunjins at 1000 fps. power wheel #10
Powderburner I will try that.
When I tested with the .25 Kodiak, I lost 100 fps with the o-ring in place. At that time, the Kodiak was the only pellet available that shot well in that barrel.
But now shooting the Benji’s and JSB, I have the gun adjusted differently so its worth a try.
I’m having such good luck without the 0-ring though. 😉
Riffraff
i leave the oring in even for heavy pellets at high velocity, i think it still helps the valve rebound and uses less air, to achieve tighter fps strings , i have pulled it out and shot back to back strings comparing and it helps.
you might try it on the .25
i never saw your post on putting the fender washer in , wish i had , it could have helped me sooner trying to slow the condor down for the Rws pellets that do not like over 800 fps, seemed no one had played with the condor at low velocity when i bought my gun , or at least i didnt see anything on it , i search for info when i first started shooting the condor.
I was shoooting in the garage while turning the top hat further down to slow the pellets down and thought i had it whipped at .026 top hat setting with the power wheel all the way down , i was getting fps in the 700’s , but i was getting fliers, and got to thinking that the top hat was hitting the brass behind it and needed a buffer, there was an oring kit laying on the work bench beside where i had the sand bags so i thought ,( HUH,maybe ) and slid one over the top hat . well the flyers went away and i shot a string in the 400′ fps range.
I thought wow this is cool and have been using the oring ever since,
Lurker
look up a few post , i put the links to where i had played with 32 g. eunjin pellets .
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Installed a rubber fender on my 177 TSS and found it reduced the noise and steadied the spread. This is a great idea for consistent and quieter shooting.