Proper Scope Choice?
I would like to know what kind of scope should go on a .25 condor from talon tunes. I am looking for a pretty high quality scope that has good magnification and clarity. I will be using this .25 condor for trying to get good at a 100 yards with it. i have seen a lot of scopes but honestly don’t know were to start cause their is so many. Plus you have to make sure they are for Air Rifles and not Powder guns. Thanks for the help 🙂
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YamahaR1,
You might want to specify the larger sidewinder wheel. Mine came with a smaller one but they sent me the larger one when I inquired about 3 missing set screws. You will want the large one ❗ it is not exactly calibrated to my scope but I needed extra marks anyway. Then, the yardage indicator pointer that mounts to the scope didn’t work with my one piece mount so I aimed it’s pointer up and installed an opaque piece of plastic in between the two halves in line with the wheel. It looks and works great.
I would not zero the scope at 100 yards. It’s better to zero inbetween. Then select your zero’d yardage in Chairgun Pro and get the chart for the power setting you will use. It will show the mil dot corrections for whatever distance the scope focused to.
All this is dependant on a reasonable range in velocity for a specific pellet. You need to use the same setup and fill pressure if you expect consistent results. Like anything worth doing, there are a lot of very simple details that soon become second nature.
Keep in mind the British designed the Hawkes and they are used on their best airguns widely in the UK like the Daystates.
Did not know that and your right that is a pretty good combination. That will defiantly help and it is a good place to start. Thanks for the info.
You need to look through a 20x 1/2 mil dot Hawk etched reticle before you buy that Barska. Hawke gives you free ballistics software with a pellet database designed for their scopes and airguns. Its a hard combo to beat.
Thanks for the input about the hawke scopes was curious about them for I have never used one. Hey nice air rifle LURKER #1 and I think I maybe misunderstood the true nil dot of the hawke scope. Found another scope that is pretty nice, but I have never used one so hard to say. Check it out http://www.barska.com/Swat_Rifle_Scopes-BARSKA_6-24x60_IR_SWAT_TACTICAL_SCOPE.html
I have two Hawke Tactical 6.5-20 Sidewinders and that glass etched reticle is extremely hard ot beat for airguns without spenidng a lot of $$. Excellent customer service.
You might want to check that again. My Hawke Tactical 8.5 to 25 power provides true mil dot when dialed to either 10X or 20X. BUT, each is calibrated differently an requires a different chart.
I have been looking into some good scopes and found a hawkes scope that I think will work well. http://www.hawkeoptics.com/us/riflescopes/sidewinder_tactical/index.php The one I want is the 6.5-20×42 scope. From what I understand of the mil dot scopes the 6.5-20 gives you the true mil dot formula at 100 yards. Could be wrong but I watched a video on mil dot scopes and it seem that the one I want is a good choice for mil dot scopes. What do you guys think of this scope? Thanks again
_/\_Two versions of this scope are available! The 1/4moa turrets mismatched to mil-dot reticle-side parallax calibrated in yards (imp/imperial). Also with .1mil turrets matched with a mil-dot reticle-side parallax calibrated in meters (metric) model. Be sure to specify imperial or metric.
BTW mils are neither a metric or a imperial measurement, but can be converted to either? Generally why most mil-dot scopes have 1/4 moa/iphy turrets in the U.S..
One thing no one seems to ever consider is the total amount of elevation/windage available on their purchase until it’s too late? I don’t have enough elevation to zero my rifle and then find out how little adjustment that good looking scope actually had. Forcing them to buy canted scope mounts or to shim the scope rings or base or both.
On an air rifle you need all the windage and elevation you can get? I can’t find the amount of windage/elevation available on the Hawke Eclipse?
Sam 😎
Be really careful with getting a bunch of “frills” added to your scope!
One of the best scopes I have is an old Leapers 3-12 that has simple turret knobs under covers. That scope resides on a very high dollar .25 and I have no plans to ever replace it. Since I bought that scope, Leapers went to “Gen ++++” scopes where every “gen” is supposed to be better than the one before…BS! I have a couple of their scopes with fancy turrets and every one of them sucks by comparison to that 3×12.
While I think a “mil-dot” reticle is best (not for ranging but for simple holdover corrections), I don’t think illumination is all that important unless you really will be hunting at dawn or dusk. If you are going target shooting against your PB carrying buds at 100 yards, don’t bother, the money spent on illumination could buy better glass.
Also, side wheel fucus is the big thing now and almost hard to avoid. BUT, it requires an extra lens to adust that way and extra lenses bring extra optical degradation regardless how good the glass is. If the glass is average, the degradation is more than if you are paying a couple thousand bucks for a super scope. For target shooting, you will be better off with a forward AO design and for hunting, you might be just as well off depending on your personal ergonomics…
So, my message is: focus on quality and not gimmicks.
_/\_Two different things?
None of the Hawke scopes have zero stop, but they all have resettable to zero turrets. You can reset the 0/zero on the turret to the zero of POI to POA. The locking turret models, does just that-lock the turret to prevent accidental turning of the turret from bumping or dragging. You must unlock the turret to make an adjustment. You also, must remember the number of elevation /windage up/down clicks to return to zero!
Zero stop is a feature of Very high Price point rifle scopes. Usually used in timed fire competitions. A zero stop prevents the elevation turret from turning below zero, but allows the elevation to be adjusted above zero and back to zero, quickly, never a need to worry about dialing below zero, thus ‘zero stop feature’, eliminating the need to remember clicks counted to return back down to zero.
None have the ‘zero stop’ feature on windage, least none I have read about, anyway.
Sam 😎
I have two and would buy a third. For the money they are great. I have never felt cheated on a scope when using my hawkes. I have luepold, bushnells nikons on my powder burners. Hawkes do not get used over 100 yards with me and adjust nicely for close work as well.
Hawke scopes have the lock feature, good scopes.. decent glass lots of features, can’t go wrong. SR-12 is way cool too!
I also forgot too add that I would also like the scope to have zero locking/resetting windage and elevation capabilities. That way you don’t have to remember how many clicks you changed it. That’s how that work right?
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Yes most deffenantly there is a lot of stuff I will need to do when I get my AAA Condor but that is part of the fun. I was thinking of zero the scope at 75 yards. Then I will have to figure out the elevation change at different yardages that will be needed to make a perfect POI. Thanks again for all the information.