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Now its almost finished:
You would like it here this morning, it was 31 degrees and it made my nipples stand out. 😛
RC
Pics or it didnt happen!!
We know hoot would do it. 😉
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This is glass bedding on an AA S410. No, it wasnt exactly difficult nor was it exactly easy but it keeps things where they should be. Yea, its pillared.
It was originally bedded full length, but I removed quite a bit of glass and patched the small chips I removed by mistake. Its about as good as ham-fisted blokes like myself can do.
OOOOOOOH,
You would like it here this morning, it was 31 degrees and it made my nipples stand out. 😛
RC
Its ok RC,
If I’m wrong, spank me…I like it
Two different terms,
Glass bedding and glass beading,and you are correct on glass beading and its use.
And my reference to the Nuclear Physicist was to show the respect I have for your knowledge, I hope I did not sound otherwise.
RC
Hey Riff. Thanks for cutting your stock in half just so we could see how it was made. What a guy! 😆 😆
I’m only familiar with the more common type of glass beading..
Glass bedding……I was thinking beading…. 😥 😥
Sorry, but you missed that one Mrnewbie. Remember a Nuclear Physicist trying to flood irragate a alf alfa field the first time with a shovel is refered to as ignorant because he is out of his educated field.
Glass bedding is used mainly in high powered PB rifles.
It gives a perfect fit to metal and wood to guard against the rifle barreled action moving in the stock during recoil. This contributes greatly to the accuracy of the rifle.
How it is applied is by routing out a clearance for the bedding to occupy between the metal action and the wood or fiberglass stock. Then a release agent is applied to all the metal so it will not bond permanently to the wood. At the same time clay dams are used to prevent the glass bedding material flowing where you do not want it to flow.
Glass bedding material, either Brownells Accuglass or Marinetex to name a few is mixed and aplied to the routed out area on the stock, and the action , coated in the release agent is set in the stock and the action screws tightend up so that the glass bedding is forced to flow into every recess between the two.
Once the glass bedding material is almost comletely set up the action is taken out of the stock, sometimes a difficult proceedure due to the now perfect fit, glass bedding like Accuglass only shrinks less than 1% when it sets up, and the stock and action remain seperated until a full cure is accomplished.
Then that action will never move in the stock during firing.
I go a step further with wood stocks in that I route a channel for a old worn out rat tailed round file to be glassed in the forearm and act as rebar would in concrete, to guard against warpage of the stock during hunting in wet weather.
Hope this helps in explaining the process.
Regards,
Roachcreek
Like sandblasting, only glass beeds much finer…nicer finish
Sorry to ask but what is glass bedding? Google translate doesn’t make sens and I do not know what that is 😳
If its not too late, use both mounting positions.
When you tighten both into the stock, the frame is MUCH stiffer.
Actually its probably not a big deal with a full stock though, all the pressure is applied to the trigger only as long as your not gorrilla-wrestling the gun.
Afterall most full stock airguns are anchored with one screw.
Next step, glass bedding. LOL.
No I havent done that to my Condor, but I did it to my Air Arms S410 and it made a huge improvement.
Nice RiffRaff, mine is attached only on one screw the one in front that normally holds the front grip.
Its a great start Lupii. If you ever decide to use the angle adapter like RC suggested or if you decide its just too heavy, you could remove the rear half behind the grip.
I once had a full length stock, but over about a year I finally whittled it down to just the grip/foregrip section.
Like you, I loved the way the rifle shot with a big stock but the weight finally got to me.
The frame flex issue is still completely eliminated.
Pics for your perusal, first one after rough shaping last one is close to as-is today. BTW, mine is laminated plywood LOL. Works just fine 😉
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj312/Leadbest/Stock06.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj312/Leadbest/condorclose.jpg
Oh one more thing, I used thick-wall carbon tubes to pillar-bed mine. Pic of process.
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj312/Leadbest/Pillar02.jpg
If you made a sporter version of it without the FT influences it would also make it much lighter for those that would use it for hunting.
You have done a great job so far tho.
RC
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Very nice!! 😀