normal to have play between the charging handle & frame?
I been having a few weak shots every now and then and noticed that the charging handle is kinda denting the frame alittle where it locks in. Theres a small amount of play after I cock and lock it. I tried wrapping some electrical tape around the charging handle shaft just so it wouldnt be metal to metal contact with the frame. While shooting the charging handle also rotates back to the 12 oclock position. Is this normal? Its a pain trying to keep a finger on the charging handle while shooting so it doesnt move anywhere.
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WOK,
It’s no longer called complaining. A few years back Xerox developed an innovative new management system where they recognized the need for the challenger to bring problems to light for discussion and to facilitate positive changes.
It gives us Air Rifle MODIFIERS BRAGGING RIGHTS.
Those high end Hardware OPERATORS only have half as much fun.
WOK,
You may be right, but when I got into air gunning after 45 years or so, the thought of buying a high end rifle that cost so much more than a good PB made me wondr what the differnce was and what could make those rifles so expensive.
Perhaps I am just a slow learner, but most of the posts here were about how wonderful these rifles are.
And I acknowledge there are things they can do that others can’t.
And in the end they are a now $600.00 rifle and they are what they are.
But then I not making money on them so perhaps I am more insightful..
RC
Roach,
It really is a shame you did not buy an AA, Rapid, or FX long ago. Many of us here have those and had them before our AF rifles.
We have posted here many, many times that those guns are better buys for getting a gun that does not need to be modified and get high end performance.
But you made your choice and moan and groan about them at every chance while the rest of us think ” We told you so”
If you really understood what you wanted to begin with you would have bought a Rapid or FX to begin with.
Wok,
I think we all realized it once we saw the damage, it is just that I think that AF did not always put that little plastic thingy on or at least it did not last long for many of us have found that it is not durable. It seems a lot of us had that problem and came up with fixes of our own.
Myself, I got one from AF but it lasted about as long as a fart in a wind storm, as others here have experienced and then made a metal one.
The other problem is with the frames with the screw holes that strip out on the frame while changing barrels.
It appears to be aluminum on steel sort of thing with galling. Now if you never change your barrel it is not a problem, but this has always been at least to me a forum about modding. And the video that accompaines the gun touts the interchangability of barrels.
ANd isn’t that one of the things that draws us to this system?
At least my rifles bear little resemblence to the factory item, and you yourself and many others have made money on the fact that we like to mod our rifles and try to make silk purses out of that now $600. dollar Texas sows ear. But fact remains these are weaknesses in the system to us home gun cranks, perhaps not to you a professional machinist, but it is to many of us.
The problem is that after you put all this stuff on your rifle to make it ergonomic and repeatable, your getting to the point that you could buy a high end air rifle.
Now all of this is not saying I regret the money I spent on my AF journey, in the end I learned so much about HPA and valves and dynamics and weaknesses of Diablo projectiles in air rifles. As a result, in the end I have gotten two 250 yard air rifles that are almost free to shoot and altho I am in a minority in acomplising or even desiring those goals, I doubt I could have achieved that with any other design.
But I also learned that if I wanted consistancy and dead nuts accuracy it would come elsewhere.
Regards,
Roachcreek
if you cant find an arrangement that works, i make a custom ergonomic knob assembly that is a low profile knob with my personally designed and preferred spacer arrangement.
its a godsend with higher spring tensions, and gives the thumb a lot to wrap around.
RC
Its only a problem for those who do not realize threaded steal bouncing up against aluminum will cause a problem 😛
But the rookies have to learn some time. 😀
i believe our duty here is to lessen the learning curve for our rookie tag bros. :hug:
RC
Its only a problem for those who do not realize threaded steal bouncing up against aluminum will cause a problem 😛
But the rookies have to learn some time. 😀
Odd that this such a problem with so many. 😛
RC
Well, dang, I sat staring at the cocking knob. Last month I tried on of my 005 O-rings which did nothing but hang up in the Frame slot. This was too big when placed around the top shoulder, ergo the thin sleeve some us got 😉
While screwing the knob back in I saw the simple fix..slaps self on back of head!
I placed two O-rings UNDER the shoulder. Yep, the top of knob now rubbing under the top frame rail. Anyway after several shots, I found out the very bottom of the shoulder was peening the top edge of the frame instead of the whole cutout as before, I did not have the threads for a third O-ring.
Well that stinking knob has been pulled and replaced by a 1” 10-32 SS hex head bolt with four 005 O-rings. After 15 shots, no peening detected and will stay on this poor disfigured SS. At lest I will never have to replace sleeves…evil laugh 😈
The naming honor goes to Hoot for first printing his idea in this thread 😛
Also, my apologies for hijacking the OP’s thread but wanted to keep the info together.
Next step, get the scope back on and start shooting.
Cheers
Wow, before i posted this, there seems to be a lot of similar ideas out there. Any machinist want to make something good looking? Count me in!
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the best thing ive found is to find acetal/nylon spacers that have an id to fit the shaft, cut to length, and chuck in a drill and abrade od to fit the slot.
its by far the most durable option ive found thus far, both being a self lubricating textile.
Mine had the little plastic ring on it when I got it used. Id probably still have it because it was epoxied in place.
I made an aluminum bolt handle with integral collar. Works like a champ, all you are doing is keeping threads from taking off the anodizing. My old frame is beat to hell, but that slot is still perfect.
The main problem is that they need to make the notch a lot longer. The knob barely gets past the center of it and is beating on the thinest part of the frame.
That is why I machine the slot and make it a 1/2″ or so. With a acetal sleeve I have no problems. The sleeve lasts a while on my .25 and on a stock gun would last a long time.
The .308 was even worse. Even with the longer notch and acetal spacer it would split the spacer after about 20 shots.
So when I converted it to a side cocker a made the slot wider and added a piece to the frame so the surface the spacer hits against was twice as tall. With the wider slot I was also able to make the spacer thicker.
Problem solved. I changed out the spacer a couple of weeks ago after about 500 shots and it was worn a little but still was fine.
I tried the smallest O-ring I had; I had a good fit over the post but the slot clearance was the problem. I think if I could notch the post, the o-ring would clear the frame slot. Hello, AF??
You guys using the metal bands, no knurling on the frame? Opps, guess not lurker. yea, metal on metal = knurl?
The tank pressure must slam the bolt post back into the frame after firing?
If WK’s sleeve is holding up, and not screwing up the frame, I could live with just changing the sleeve out when needed. On the other hand AF must be clueless not to address this; I sent them pictures, or, only three people have this annoying problem?
I like to keep my guns in like new condition so this had been a thorn in my side ❗
Mine came with the thin plastic sleve that split diagonally and wouldn’t stay on. AF sent a metal one but that didn’t prevent the deforming of the frame.Some of us must use a bit more force than the frame can take while cocking and there is obvious need for a cushin between the latched knob and frame.
Once it begins chewing the hammer its only a matter of time until releasing the safety allows the hammer to fire.
💡
Hoots suggestion of a small oring after deburring and smoothing the contact surfaces, is the best solution I’ve heard.
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To those who discribed the knob ring as metal, it is! My little mind was thinking it was plastic, as in a buffer between a steel shaft and soft aluminum frame. Nope, Steel ring, black, sticks very well to magnet.
So, to those that have a bone stock Talon, you are saying that with the METAL ring, you have zero peening? WK is the only voice that say NP with his.
Other than the guys on this forum, I find it odd that we have to go to Euro sites to find a simple thing like an expolded diagram. One of them, arienlances, has this and dang if there is not the item 107; cocking knob washer! Whis I had noticed that when I first got mine…
My question to Rachel, nice lady she is, where are the AF drawings? She claims there is none?
As to noobs or not, without proper docs, we are just dumb noobs, no? 😥
Another one, i need to start reading more and yapping less..
http://www.talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5813&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0