Q:

DIY AF trigger fix vs. AFSuperSear

First is the DIY and I hope I’m understanding it right. I didn’t do it. Bought the gun used. Looks like some nice polishing of the trigger parts. Maybe also some material removed from the sear. I think the frame was drilled and a screw put in to make a “1st” stage. I say “1st” stage but considering once the guns cocked it’s locked in this position. Almost feels like a “1st – 2nd stage” adjustment because it should put the sear on the edge of breaking. The “2nd” stage screw is underneath drilled through a plate. So being adjustable you could put it even more on the razors edge of breaking. Now the adjustment screw did not come with my gun. I don’t know why it was removed and or lost. That said the trigger to me was heavy and harsh with no real 1st stage. To be fair the safety was in and I hate it. Might have caused me to hate the trigger. If I missed something, I’m sure you guys will let me know.

Second the AirForce SuperSear

No drilling. Maybe no polishing needed. I have all new trigger parts and the old DIY to play with now so I’ll find out what I like best. It’s a drop in, apart from adjusting the screws correctly and making sure taking off the safety doesn’t fire it, it can’t get much easier. I did install it. It took me longer than 10 minutes. I think the old mods and new part plus the shitty safety were being uncooperative. That said I got it all working and I’m an idiot most days. 🙂 Here’s what I found with it all working. A nice 1st stage that resets. A very nice 2nd stage that I think can be set better than I did, but ten times better than what I was working with. I wish I had better photos for you, but there it is. I also think I’ll put the gun back together at least once without the safety to see how it is and if I like it.

All in all very very pleased with the drop in unit. I’m not much, if at all a DIY guy, and I’d have never drilled a frame on my own. 😀

General Chat

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im sure he’d appreciate it. have you ever looked over at his site? im sure im not the only one hoping he gets well and soon… 😥

quote moneyshot:

quote Michael S.:

quote moneyshot:

leupys custom shop hybrid hammer(100g, barrel guided).

the hammers engagement with the sear made an already superb(for AF) trigger that much better.

Pulling your leg on me being the smartass. Stage 3 is interesting. Looks like leupys way out of town. Thanks.

yea, the insured overseas shipping he insists on is a bundle, but i promise you get what you pay for.

on a related note, lets all toss a small prayer for drum. i spoke to him this morning, and he says hes been experiencing signifigant health problems, and has me concerned. 🙁

Sorry to hear about your friend. How about a big prayer for him?

quote Michael S.:

quote moneyshot:

leupys custom shop hybrid hammer(100g, barrel guided).

the hammers engagement with the sear made an already superb(for AF) trigger that much better.

Pulling your leg on me being the smartass. Stage 3 is interesting. Looks like leupys way out of town. Thanks.

yea, the insured overseas shipping he insists on is a bundle, but i promise you get what you pay for.

on a related note, lets all toss a small prayer for drum. i spoke to him this morning, and he says hes been experiencing signifigant health problems, and has me concerned. 🙁

I make the same type hammer but with mine you don’t loose your power wheel.

quote moneyshot:

leupys custom shop hybrid hammer(100g, barrel guided).

the hammers engagement with the sear made an already superb(for AF) trigger that much better.

Pulling your leg on me being the smartass. Stage 3 is interesting. Looks like leupys way out of town. Thanks.

leupys custom shop hybrid hammer(100g, barrel guided).

the hammers engagement with the sear made an already superb(for AF) trigger that much better.

quote moneyshot:

i just thought you were being a smartass as well, with the overtravel thing.

i apologize, i was half asleep.

for what its worth(i think i was lucky), i LIGHTLY polished all contact areas and burnished in a cerflon liquid to replace the moly with a stainless wire wheel(they got cheap on these recently and no longer case harden them, i am buyin some kasenite and a few replacement parts for this), carefully clipped springs, which almost eliminated first stage weight, and enough to reduce 2nd to a safe margin(still very light). another HUGE leap was made when i got my LCS hybrid hammer, which has a nose that mates perfectly with the sear, putting tension more down than back. my rifle came with pre drilled holes for overtravel screws(2 for some reason), and i have the screw set to stop just after the break. above all, safety is GONE.

thats all i got. again, sorry for the surly 😉 😀 😀

I was. :9: 😆

Hey what’s that LCS hammer?

i just thought you were being a smartass as well, with the overtravel thing.

i apologize, i was half asleep.

for what its worth(i think i was lucky), i LIGHTLY polished all contact areas and burnished in a cerflon liquid to replace the moly with a stainless wire wheel(they got cheap on these recently and no longer case harden them, i am buyin some kasenite and a few replacement parts for this), carefully clipped springs, which almost eliminated first stage weight, and enough to reduce 2nd to a safe margin(still very light). another HUGE leap was made when i got my LCS hybrid hammer, which has a nose that mates perfectly with the sear, putting tension more down than back. my rifle came with pre drilled holes for overtravel screws(2 for some reason), and i have the screw set to stop just after the break. above all, safety is GONE.

thats all i got. again, sorry for the surly 😉 😀 😀

quote moneyshot:

:9:

😆

Alright moneyshot. For the rekord I’m not ignoring you just thanking syn for the help. To be honest I need it. Third stage blew me away. So tell me what you did to get that glass rod break. :18:

quote Michael S.:

Thanks synopsys. I have a better understnding of what’s happening now. Can you give more details on stage 3?

:9:

Thanks synopsys. I have a better understnding of what’s happening now. Can you give more details on stage 3?

btw…i was being a SMART ASS!

but for the rekord(hehe), i have my trigger done so the take up is just enough to return the trigger forward, about a mm of second stage,breaking like the proverbial glass rod, with just enough overtravel to know that the sear will break every time(about another mm)

bear in mind that in this configuration(stock) the first stage weight adds to the 2nd.

3 stage… 😆 😆 😆

Got #2 now. 😯

Releasing the sear is breaking the sear. Setting the break/release weight determines how light or heavy the trigger pull is.

The third stage is post sear breaking really, the best target triggers have all three stages. It’s not as important to the shot as the first two. The third stage is also the easiest to add since most triggers have a trigger guard and it’s just a matter of putting a small screw at the back of the trigger blade that threads through the trigger guard.

On the really nice triggers I have the first stage is against spring pressure then you hit the second where you have to apply pressure, the adjustment of that second stage determines how much pressure you need to break the sear.

The AF trigger has two stages but it isn’t adjustable… 😉

Three technically but since nothing but since the parts hitting each other acts as an over travel stop you can’t really count it as an intentional stage.

I usually like to run close to no first stage at all and a really light second stage with almost no over travel… You can softly touch the trigger blade but any more pressure than a soft touch makes it fire. Really a single stage trigger with no movement before or after breaking the sear.

Funniest part is those that like to run superlight triggers think I have too much second stage. My Jewell trigger can be set so light that if you barely touch it, it will fire, you will actually think you never touched it. They call that the ‘telepathic trigger”.

I like to actually feel the trigger blade and be able to rest my finger against it lightly before it goes ‘bang’…

quote wikipedia:

The takeup is the least critical stage of the trigger pull, and individual preferences vary widely. Two stage triggers, for example, consist of a noticeable takeup, followed by a distinct increase in the force required to pull the trigger, followed by the break. A single stage trigger, on the other hand, has no discernible movement before the break. Fully adjustable triggers will provide a two stage pull, and the option of reducing the first stage travel to zero, essentially making the trigger a single stage trigger.

The break is a far more critical stage of the pull, as it happens just prior to the shot being fired. Here again, individual preferences vary; some shooters prefer a soft break, where there is a smooth but discernible amount of trigger travel during firing, while others prefer a crisp break, with a heavier weight and little or no discernible movement.

quote synopsys:

quote wikipedia:

Analysis of the trigger pull:

The trigger pull consists of three stages:

1. takeup or pretravel; which is the movement of the trigger which happens before the sear moves
2. break; the movement during which the trigger moves the sear to the point of release
3. overtravel; which is the distance a trigger moves after the sear releases

😉

Wiki? Where’s SOPA and PIPA when you need ’em?

How can you call #2 break if it doesn’t break?

😎

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