Tuning and adjusting the R3 out of the box
Ok, this will be a long post so here goes:
The story begins about a year ago when I got my long 22. R3. First thing I did, as any normal person, was to unscrew the moderator and of course I broke the Oring on the tip of the baffles. I think it was broken in the first place but I don’t like to point fingers. I put it back without it and carried on.
The gun was filled up to 200BAR as I got it, so the next thing was to zero the gun.
After zeroing the gun at 50 meters I decided to chrony it. I read 160-170 BAR on the pressure gauge so I took 5 shots to see where I stand.
The speed was about 900 fps with no more than 8 fps deviation so I was happy with it. Stupid move, if I may say so myself.
There were many shooting sessions for a couple of months and I shot about 1500-2000 of pellets with it.
The accuracy was great to about 50 meters and good above 50, but not good as others on this forum claimed.
One day a cop came to my door and told me that a new law came that says every airgun should be kept in a gun safe at home, and he came to see if owners have those.
I didn’t, so he suspended my license for 6 months and took away the R3 for the same period. He said that I was lucky because I was nice and cooperative , and he didn’t gave me a fine , just a warning. The fine is pretty big in my country. Minimum wage is 250$ and the fine was about 570$ so I guess I was lucky.I now have a gun safe.
As I gave them the gun I first soaked the barrel in Balistol so it can withstand the hard conditions in police armory.
These 6 months I gathered a lot of info from you guys (especially from oldgoat and zocoloco. Thank you!). The plan was to put all this info into use and try to make the gun better and safer when I get it back. I even upgrade it from Hawke to Sightron because I wanted to blame only the gun or myself if anything goes wrong.
Big day came. I got my gun back so I cleaned the barrel. I also disassembled the parts and grease them as I saw in Ed’s assembling videos.
Filed the plate for the ball bearing, to smooth the pass above the edge of the plate.
Image property of Ted(oldgoat)
Almost all screws were VERY tight screwed so I ruined 2 of them even tho I had the wright tools.
One of them I left as it was as I later realized that I had no reason to unscrew it. I hope I will never have to unscrew it.
The other one I had to replace and the search for one started. I put all the screws back but this time I put a little silicone grease on the tip of each one.
I ruined the trigger spring trying to give it enough length so I can keep the nut on the rod all the way unscrewed. I should of known it will never work but gave it a try anyway.
Plan B was to replace it with a stronger one I found, and put “a easy to remove type of glue” on the thread next to the nut because the shots shock kept unscrewing the nut until the bolt wont catch, or worse, the bolt catches but barely, self firing at the smallest shock. It happened twice but thankfully no one or anything was hurt.
As long as I removed the rod, I adjusted it also as I put it back. With it completely off, I screwed it on the hammer side of the rifling just enough to catch it and than begun to screw in until it could begin to screw on trigger side of the rifling. Than kept screwing until those two plates in the picture became almost parallel. Than removed the first trigger screw and screwed in just the second one just enough for 1mm to be visible. I’m pretty pleased with this setting and really recommend it. I damaged the rod coating trying different settings but I think it will be OK.
With the gun back together again, it was time to start a fresh string, this time on a entire fill. 99 shots, to be exact.
BTW, I think Ed fills the guns to 220 because he fills them pretty fast to save time, so by the time they cool they get to 200BAR. I filled very slowly to 200BAR, and even tho the tank didn’t felt worm, the pressure dropped to 195BAR in 5 minutes and stayed that way for 15 minutes so it was a temperature thing not a leak. I really recommend just a slowly 200BAR fill.
1-99 shot string
same string but from 1 to 70
1 to 70: Max=929; Min=874; Average=901; Extreme Spread=55; Standard Spread=11
It doesn’t take much to guess I was not very happy. I now understand why I had 900 fps with little spread on the 5 shots I cronyed the first time.
I was trying to find the ruined screw and it took one month to find one with the wright length, thickness and thread. It was the “slot” type but it does his job.
Before I did a new string I also put the 3 orings on the 3 grooves on the baffles of the moderator.
Image property of Trygve(zocoloco)
I really wish Ed would tell if he recommends to put the other 2 orings on the moderator, or if he later discovered that it does not help at all and we shouldn’t bother.
Zocoloco said that just putting the one on the tip does not help accuracy but dampens the sound a little bit. I’ll tell you that much, with all 3 of them in place the sound INCREASES by at least 5% according to my “ear meter”. If I’m not happy with accuracy I will try different combination of numbers of orings and properly test the decibel levels as well.
BTW, it’s easy to mount them if you grease them with silicon grease and with the help of a toothpick, greased as well. The tube I just cleaned very well but didn’t greased it. I than pushed the tube SLOWLY so I will not damage the orings. I pushed and then screwed so slowly that it took 1 minute for the entire action. I hope the gun was designed that way and I will not have to remove any of them because they affect accuracy.
So the next string was different because of the screw and the 3 orings on the moderator.
1-99 shot string
same string but from 1 to 70
1 to 70: Max=957 ; Min=916 ; Average=934 ; Extreme Spread=41 ; Standard Spread=9
The string looks different but far from being perfect.Those variations does not affect much at lower distances but I think that’s what affects the shots at 50 to beyond.
I think I will invite oldgoat on a 2 weeks vacation to Romania. All expenses covered, of course.
On a serious note, I hated the idea to open the tank and fiddle with the regulator but now I can’t wait to take the bull by the horns and be able to have “894 +- 3-4 fps” as oldgoat set it to. If that 3-4 is the extreme spread, I think that “Doctor Edgun” doesn’t really covers it. Brain surgeon Edgun suits it better.
I now have more than 2500 pellets shot through it so the brake in should be complete.
What do you guys think about all this ?
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The crown seems to be very nice!!
So here’s the R3.1 😀
I took some pictures of the o-ring inside my R3 .25 Long and there’s only one o-ring. This different than the what you have shown in Zocoloco’s picture (First picture shown) on your .22 Long. There only one o-ring and no grooves for any others. Looks like it might be thicker also which would make it less likely to tear or break.
Here’s your picture of the inside of the .22 Long:
And here’s what my .25 Long looks like:
not that i think it makes much difference by the sound of things but mine is the R2 version not R3…aside from that you guys baffle me with science, or as me mum used to say its all double dutch to me :):):)
Ted in Madison hasn’t gotten his R3 22 standard, yet. He is currently just stuck with a crappy R2.5 22 standard! Poor guy! 😥 😆
I didn’t hear about any one having to adjust the reg on a R2.5 22 standard. I think that just about everybody had to adjust the reg on their R2.5 25 longs. Ed set them to shoot the heavy Eun Jin pellets around 925-950 and the JSB 25.4s at around 1025-1050.
I have only had the reg out of my R2.5 22 standard once, just to look at it. I think that Ed puts an extra spacer in the reg for the 25 cals, between the reg assembly and the air valve assembly, for a little more regulated air volume in the 25 cals.
I could very easily be wrong on the spacer in the 25’s reg. I only had my R2.5 22 standard’s reg out once and that was a very long time ago!
I am not aware of anybody having to adjust the reg on a R3 22 standard except for Yoda and Moonbear and they needed the gun to shoot under 12 fpe.
DVDRW has a R3 22 long and the extra barrel length seems to have him shooting the JSBs a little too fast.
Seems like a lot of the guys with R3 25 longs have ended up adjusting their regs as the stock setting has them shooting 25.4 JSBs at 925-950 fps.
If these Matadors were Daystates, FXs, Air Arms or any other high end airgun, the guys that had a gun that shot faster than normal would be bragging about it!
Edgun Matador owners are a bunch of picky bastards! 😆
To take all for granted, I had the same speeds after adjusting the regulator but shooting off-hand on a 45 degree angle and more than a foot away from the first sensor showed crazy numbers. In the gun vise I shot 1 inch away from the first sensor each shot, and at the exact same angle each shot. That showed the real numbers.
Is that 4fps the ES ? WOW
Actually I came back to tell you that I did turned up the HST a little and now I have an average of 905 and the ES is still 9fps because of one shot. If I take away that shot I have the ES 8fps. The shot count decreased to 85 shots, that means around 96-97 BAR on the tank as with all the strings I shot, so I will never shoot below 100BAR. More than enough, if you ask me.
I did zeroed the scope to 50 meters again, and leveled it too, so the next thing I’ll do is recording the clicks at different distances in a real range. Eventually I’ll learn the mildots too. Maybe I’ll do a box test too 🙄
Than, pests beware.
Couldn’t it be possible its because your gun is now in a vise??
YOU WILL NOT BELIEVE THIS POST.
First of all it was the first time in my life when being lazy turned out to work in my favor.
I didn’t have the will power to break down the gun just yet so I decided to shoot a test string in the gun vise so I can get in the mood. The results were incredible. Around 920fps with very little spread. I decided to turn down the HST half a turn so here is the last string.
Same string but 1-90
Max=900; Min=891; Average=896; Extreme Spread 9; Standard Spread=3
90 consistent shots with the ES=9 I cant be more happy than this. I might turn up the HST because the string with the average of 920 was not different in spread. Not all the way to 920 but around 905-910. I don’t know.
I like this string so much !!!!
On another note, because I’ve accomplished so much in so little time, I decided to test the orings. I took off one by one from the breech end to the muzzle. Every test was made with 10 shots and tested the sound level near the bolt and at the muzzle.
The oring from the breach end off . Same speeds, spread and sound level.
The middle oring off. Same speeds, spread and sound level.
What the hell ? After thinking about it I come up with this theory.
The breech oring is replaced with the rifling of the tube and sealed with the silicone grease on the rifling. So the rifling of the tube replaces the oring.
The middle oring has no purpose as seen in the picture. It does not seal the rear part of the tube from the front part of the tube. So with or without it, it’s the same deal.
The tip oring off. No orings on the moderator whatsoever. You might want to sit down for this.
Same speeds, spread and sound level. This one did puzzled me completely. Not just because the same results, but the orings being on and off affected the speed on the unadjusted regulator, but had no effect on the adjusted one. I even took the tube off and cleaned all the grease from the rifling, tube and baffles so the air can go free outside the tube. Then put it back on dry and had the same results. Don’t ask me why. Maybe it has to do with my gun being the long version. I just don’t know……..yet. I ended up greasing the rifling again and I did put just the tip oring back, just in case.
I think my work here is done and I will not post in this topic unless some new mod will come up or you have some questions.
What about the noise level?
I hadn’t have time yesterday to play but it’s 7:30 now. Just one coffee and off I go.
I plan first to turn down the regulator just a little bit more. I turned down 6 hours the first time. Now I will turn it down a hour and a half and then re-chrony in the gun vise.
If I’m not satisfied, I’ll start taking off some moderator orings, and I’m sure I’ll have to turn the regulator and HST back up because the speed will decrease.
So the next string was different because of the screw and the 3 orings on the moderator
I noticed this to, I put in the three shroud O rings and my velocity jumped to 960 or so from 900. Looks like I’ll need to adjust her back down.
Edgun Matador ownere are a bunch of picky bastards! 😆
Correct!!!! But that’s Ed his faulth.. he made the almost perfect gun!! :))
ps. I have a short R2.5 and it spits out 50 shots within 4 fps… 🙂
The R2.5 and R3 regs are the same AFAIK.
Ted in Madison hasn’t gotten his R3 22 standard, yet. He is currently just stuck with a crappy R2.5 22 standard! Poor guy! 😥 😆
I didn’t hear about any one having to adjust the reg on a R2.5 22 standard. I think that just about everybody had to adjust the reg on their R2.5 25 longs. Ed set them to shoot the heavy Eun Jin pellets around 925-950 and the JSB 25.4s at around 1025-1050.
I have only had the reg out of my R2.5 22 standard once, just to look at it. I think that Ed puts an extra spacer in the reg for the 25 cals, between the reg assembly and the air valve assembly, for a little more regulated air volume in the 25 cals.
I could very easily be wrong on the spacer in the 25’s reg. I only had my R2.5 22 standard’s reg out once and that was a very long time ago!
I am not aware of anybody having to adjust the reg on a R3 22 standard except for Yoda and Moonbear and they needed the gun to shoot under 12 fpe.
DVDRW has a R3 22 long and the extra barrel length seems to have him shooting the JSBs a little too fast.
Seems like a lot of the guys with R3 25 longs have ended up adjusting their regs as the stock setting has them shooting 25.4 JSBs at 925-950 fps.
If these Matadors were Daystates, FXs, Air Arms or any other high end airgun, the guys that had a gun that shot faster than normal would be bragging about it!
Edgun Matador owners are a bunch of picky bastards! 😆
Maybe Ed can confirm there’s a different regulator in the R2,5 and R3.
Or even oldgoat, as he dismantled them both in little pieces.
Did you see any topics about the reg adjustments of the R2.5?
I did not.. The Edgun regs were pointed as one of the best and most consistent of all!
That’s something that one of the Teds can confirm. They both have the R2,5 and the R3.
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My R3 22 long has the single O-ring style as well.