Q:

Hammer wear, power loss

My condor has about 1,000 shots through it or so and has been losing velocity. After reading several threads on the subject I decided to disassemble the gun to try and find the culprit of my power loss.

After removing the hammer I realized that there is wear on the bushing on the hammer. Could this be what some people consider the hammer ‘chatter’?

I have one of Tony’s 95g hammers w/ hammer slap mod on the way and want to make sure everything is operating properly as not to cause any wear on my new parts.

Any suggestions here?

[/img]

Airforce Rifles/Pistols

All Replies

Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 17 total)

1 2

Dyotat-have you covered making your hammer in another thread? photos?[/quote]

quote aninias:

quote benneeb0y:

you gotta get an aftermarket once piece jobby. AF slacks on the quality sometimes.

Tony has a 95g w/ hammer slap mod in the mail to me already. That’s part of the reason that I wasn’t upset about having to take it all apart. 😀

nice!

Not trying to step on anybody’s toes, just want to put out what I have done to solve the problem and give a option.

The only way to not have the hammer wear is a barrel guided one. I have been through all this and that’s why I spent the time to figure out how to do it.

The stock hammer(or stock type aftermarket) doesn’t fit the frame or the barrel. So the hammer can rattle down the frame. Even worse is when you start going with a heavier spring the hammer is now trying to climb over the sear because it doesn’t fit the inside of the frame.

One problem is the differences in frame ID. I have seen frames vary from 1.010″-1.016″. So you can’t make a hammer that fit’s-good for one frame and won’t fit in another.

Here is where the other problem is. Hammers measure .988″. So you could have anywhere from .022″-.028″ play between frame and hammer.

I had issues with miss fires and nothing I did would stop it. That when I noticed how the hammer was trying to climb over the sear. So I spent some time and figured how I could make a barrel guided one. Took a while and I have made some changes over time for the better. Hammer has .002″ clearance on the barrel and slides like it is on butter.

I have a 13 lb hammer spring in my .308 and a 9 lb in my .25 with no issues know. Stock is about 4.1 lb.

Moneyshot, my sear only had sharp edges pretty much like the rest of the trigger group. My hammer failing to latch was caused by a large burr from the top of the frame at the front edge of the breech knob slot. The breech tips the hammer up when cocking, and caused the delrin cap to be gouged. Upon firing, the burr would sometimes gouge both the rear and then front hammer endcap. A Talon Tunes modified rifle is is well worth the little extra it costs. I learned the hard way on my first Condor. Now I have a Talon Tunes AAA .25 on order.

Aninias, that’s a good picture of the chewed up hammer. Mine didn’t look near as bad. The more people that see your hammer the better they will understand why there is unnecessary deviations in pellet speed.

check for burrs on the sear too.

quote LURKER #1:

I did a write up on that last August, “Hammer wear and prevention”.

Be sure to deburr the forward end of the slot.

Link?

I did a write up on that last August, “Hammer wear and prevention”.

Be sure to deburr the forward end of the slot.

quote benneeb0y:

you gotta get an aftermarket once piece jobby. AF slacks on the quality sometimes.

Tony has a 95g w/ hammer slap mod in the mail to me already. That’s part of the reason that I wasn’t upset about having to take it all apart. 😀

you gotta get an aftermarket once piece jobby. AF slacks on the quality sometimes.

I just emailed Airforce, I’ll see what they say about a replacement although I’m not really worried about it since almost nothing is stock on the gun already.

holly shit bat boy….I taint seen that one before 😯

wile you have it apart polish the i/d of the frame in that area, also call airforce and tell them you are emailing them that pic so they can send you out some new bushings…

quote Jerry:

That doesn’t look like normal wear, it looks like it was dragged down a gravel road for 8 miles!

Something is seriously wrong there.

Yeah, I had a feeling that something was up. Before I disassembled anything I could see the wear on the delrin. I pulled everything apart and after sticking my finger in the frame there turned out to be a burr inside where the cocking knob and frame meet. I took a small round file and filed it away.

As soon as Tony’s hammer gets here I will put it all back together and start shooting again 😀

Holy crap! Are you sure you don’t have 100,000 shots 😯 ❓

Check and see if you don’t have a burr in the frame. And yes, you will have to replace the delrin end pieces.

Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 17 total)

1 2
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.