Problem with Condor tank refil?
Hi there,
I recently noticed that the hiss of air is longer when i done refill of condor tank and must unscrew to vent the refill adapter. This got me thinking and I instantly tried to refill the tank again. And what i seen was the although previously i filled it to like 160bar now i refill it again from like 140+ to my desired 160bar.
I think that the valve on my recently bought 2nd condor tank is not closing fast enough when done refilling. Has any of you guys had this problem? What can be done with this?
lupii
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Mrnewbie, on the picture i posted is my second bottle with valve. The one that has problem while filling has top hat at normal distance 😉
Anyway will try to strap it more later after work.
A few thing to look at…
1st, your tophat looks very low, normal setting are between .070 and .100, this is the gap between to bottom of the Tophat and the top of the Brass part. You may have it set real low for air conservation..??
Its not a problem, it just looks low.
The Tophat is attatched to the Valve stem, which plugs in to a Delrin valve seal..A black plastic part. Tear that sucker apart and check the delrin part for wear. Check the Orings as well.
AF sells them for a few bucks..
I finally got my self proper valve removing tool for like 10 cent 🙂 A nail 7,6mm thick , 30cm long. I Just cut off the sharp end and with second person holding firmly the tank i was able to unscre the valve without any heating!
The bad news is that the screw holding the spring inside the valve (that is closing the valve) was not loose, i can screw it a bit more but i was almost sure it was a problem with to small spring tension in valve but now i am not sure. The valve is closing and opening with no problem, so im confused nothing seems to be wrong. So why this filling problem. Maby i will try tomorow to disasamble the rest of the valve parts and have a good look.
HEY, ya ever try to cook a strip of bacon with a cigarette lighter? Heck, it might work and may be better than nothing.
You must have a clamp, vice maybe with wood jaws or thick newspapers or leather to protect the tank from being scratched or gouged, Then you must have a tank valve removal tool. Several guys make them and sell them cheep. Then an extention for the handle of the of the removal tool. A 1″ or larger box wrench and big hammer worked for me. Some have used a pipe on the handle and probably had an easier time with it.
If you are going to use heat, the idea is to heat the tank at the threads to loosen any thread lock compound and expand the tank opening at the threads. Too small a heat source may be to slow and heat transfer to the valve may expand it keeping it tight.
I’d skip the heat idea and go for a proper tank valve tool and as long a handle as you can come up with.
Even without heat, SCRAP THE O-RING no matter how good it still looks. Don’t start until you have a replacement O-Ring. Mine looked like new but the next day it was ouzing out like liquid rubber.
should a cigaret lighter do the job? And will the bottle not change color permanently at that spot?
spot A.
not too much heat, be patient.
if it were me, id get an extra oring just in case…
Sorry but I’m not English native so want to make sure i understand correctly. I must heat up the A or B spot ? And how much heat is required? Will the orings be damaged and need to be replaced after this?
just the brass part…make sure its pressure free, of course.
have you lubed the o ring in the brass face?
is the preload too heavy?
wheres the TH set?
Cant do pics of internals until I do not unscrew the valve from bottle. And as i wrote it looks like it is glued on, cant move it 😕 Think that it needs heating right ?
The preload on the hammer spring is set to 5, so its quite normal/light
The top hat I must measure but its as it was originally set.
any pics of the internals?
have you lubed the o ring in the brass face?
is the preload too heavy?
wheres the TH set?
I have done few times the mallet thing and also few empty shots with no success 🙁 I thing that only thing now i can do is to unscrew the valve as probably the tension on the inner spring is too small and valve is not closing fast enough.
Is the valve on new bottles glued or something like that? I cannot screw it out like i do it on my second bottle that was bought second hand with the rifle.
Thx for anwsers, i did used gun with this tank so i think that opening the valve again with dry fireing or rubber mallet will not change anything, well maby will try the mallet thing. The tank is new (using it for like 6 monts) but i just recently noticed it and dont think that this was so before.
Thats what the tech suggested first. When I said I had dry fired “a shitload of times” he laughed and suggested the mallet trick.
or put it in the gun and dry fire it a couple times thats what airforce told me
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i have put the valve back together as i could not see any problem and now its fine. I set the valve inner spring tension to similar that was before. No problems now. I just wonder what was wrong but seems that disasembling and reasembling worked 😛