Q:

Which buble level for Cricket?

Hi guys, which buble level is better for cricket, on the rail or on the scope?


or

or something like this?

Kalibrgun

All Replies

Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 26 total)

1 2

Heck, you can do it with a string and washer too but precision tools are invented for a reason other than to generate revenue for the manufacturer. 😀

quote Demp223:

quote acourvil:

It takes a little patience, but it’s not that hard if you are careful. One of the tools to make it easier is a plumb line. It’s best if it’s 50 to a hundred yards away, but you can work with something closer as well. You also need a level separate from the one that you are mounting.

First, put the rifle in a rest or vise and level it. On any well made gun, there will be a part of the action that is flat and square to the line of the axis (note that the rails are frequently not). After leveling the gun, mount the scope and use the plumbline to level it by aligning the crosshairs with the plumbline. Then add the bubble level and align it. Alternatively, you can align the bubble level with the scope and then mount the scope and level it on the gun.

It takes a bit of time, but it’s not that hard if you are careful.

And personally, I like the #2 level. It puts the level in a place that is easy to see w/o taking your dominant eye from the scope, and the fluid has a higher visibility color that makes it easier to see. I’d like it better of you could tighten the screws from the top, but otherwise it works pretty well.

Exactly how I do it^^^ . I also have the scope mounted bubble #2.

I tried that before, but the reticle did not align with the axis of the barrel. Especially when it came to vertical adjustments on the turret at far distances, the POI would go upwards/downwards diagonally.

You see, I tried many methods, and they just didn’t work for me. After putting logic into the mix, I found my latest method to be the best for me. Beware! On some videos of scope leveling, the guys don’t know what they’re doing or saying and giving out mis-information. The key is scope-to-barrel alignment. It should never be just scope leveling alone, leveling with the action, or leveling a scope to the stock. Think of that scope as a means of “looking through” or “looking with” the barrel. This can only be possible if both are in line with one another. It is what allowed me to do this pellet-stacking with my TX200 .22 at 30 yards:

Pellet stacking with my Air Arms S410 at 30 yards:

Let’s see what my Cricket can do when I get the chance to do some proper long-range shooting with it. 😉

quote Machine Gun:

Accuracy costs money; how accurate do you want to be?

No matter how good you think eye-balling it may be, it’s never 100% or even close.

This is as good as it gets:
http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2011/01/new-scope-mounted-level-and-aci-mount-from-flatline-ops/

To get a better understanding:
http://www.riflescopelevel.com/cant_tests.html

Proper scope mounting is paramount for ultimate accuracy.

Those are great tools! But, I’ll pass. I’ll stick to my method as it has proven time and again to be accurate for me even at long distances. Maybe I just have good eyes. 🙄 The best part? No money on special tools. 😀

quote acourvil:

It takes a little patience, but it’s not that hard if you are careful. One of the tools to make it easier is a plumb line. It’s best if it’s 50 to a hundred yards away, but you can work with something closer as well. You also need a level separate from the one that you are mounting.

First, put the rifle in a rest or vise and level it. On any well made gun, there will be a part of the action that is flat and square to the line of the axis (note that the rails are frequently not). After leveling the gun, mount the scope and use the plumbline to level it by aligning the crosshairs with the plumbline. Then add the bubble level and align it. Alternatively, you can align the bubble level with the scope and then mount the scope and level it on the gun.

It takes a bit of time, but it’s not that hard if you are careful.

And personally, I like the #2 level. It puts the level in a place that is easy to see w/o taking your dominant eye from the scope, and the fluid has a higher visibility color that makes it easier to see. I’d like it better of you could tighten the screws from the top, but otherwise it works pretty well.

Exactly how I do it^^^ . I also have the scope mounted bubble #2.

quote Urgirlinmyjetta:

I. Found this to be a great way to lever a scope without all the extra money
http://youtu.be/HFTagdrA5JI

Lol I just happened to post it right before you.

It takes a little patience, but it’s not that hard if you are careful. One of the tools to make it easier is a plumb line. It’s best if it’s 50 to a hundred yards away, but you can work with something closer as well. You also need a level separate from the one that you are mounting.

First, put the rifle in a rest or vise and level it. On any well made gun, there will be a part of the action that is flat and square to the line of the axis (note that the rails are frequently not). After leveling the gun, mount the scope and use the plumbline to level it by aligning the crosshairs with the plumbline. Then add the bubble level and align it. Alternatively, you can align the bubble level with the scope and then mount the scope and level it on the gun.

It takes a bit of time, but it’s not that hard if you are careful.

And personally, I like the #2 level. It puts the level in a place that is easy to see w/o taking your dominant eye from the scope, and the fluid has a higher visibility color that makes it easier to see. I’d like it better of you could tighten the screws from the top, but otherwise it works pretty well.

I. Found this to be a great way to lever a scope without all the extra money
http://youtu.be/HFTagdrA5JI

Accuracy costs money; how accurate do you want to be?

No matter how good you think eye-balling it may be, it’s never 100% or even close.

This is as good as it gets:
http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2011/01/new-scope-mounted-level-and-aci-mount-from-flatline-ops/

To get a better understanding:
http://www.riflescopelevel.com/cant_tests.html

Proper scope mounting is paramount for ultimate accuracy.

Jdr724, I understand what you are saying. However, sometimes, the reticle may not coincide vertically with the flat underside of the scope beneath the turrets. I’ve seen some scopes that present this problem. That’s why I always go with just plain old-fashioned eyeballing. 😉

Yeah, i’m not convinced eyeballing it is that accurate myself. 😉

I’d take my chances with my high end rifle and the rail being really close to being on center (within 0.005″). Closer then eyeballing it to the top of the barrel (when the center is what you actually want). Not to mention there is nothing that actually marks the center of the barrel when eyeballing it. 😉 One could easily be off 0.01″.

As long as it’s a milstd rail I would put the feeler gaige method against any other method that requires a visual inspection any day. Check it out! No pain in the dick either.

I’m curious how you determine if your gun is level to the barrel axis while making the visual determination the reticle is plum to the line?

Harry, that works well as long as the center of your scope is vertical over the center of the bore.

I have offhand issues too. Even more so when it’s a sub 1″ kill zone at 35 yards. 😆

Axis meaning; Centerline of the reticle (vertical part) should pass thru the center point of the barrel.

Getting the crosshairs aligned was a pain in the dick. I have #1. I mounted that and leveled my gun then I took my 4ft level and drew a big set of crosshairs on the wall with a magic marker and aligned my scope to them, while my gun was level. I will say, I never have problems shooting off a bench, my issues arise when shooting offhand 😳

Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 26 total)

1 2
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.