Q:

I need a barrel

Anybody know how to get a new barrel for an edgun matador .25 R3.5. Mine is screwed. The breech end wont take a pellet it only jams the pellets. I am pretty sure the barrel is damaged somehow. I take care of my stuff and this is disappointing to say the least.

Please if you know where or how to get one let me know. This sucks. Tried with Tony but he hardly ever answers my emails.

😡 I am pissed

EdGun

All Replies

Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 35 total)

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Figured from the sound of things as this thread progressed it was a regulator issue and pellets weren’t all making it out of the barrel.
Seeing your other thread sounds like this is the case.
Did the reg go bad or out of adjustment on it’s own or had you messed with it?
Not trying to yank your chain.
Just curious as to what was the cause.

So Has ED taken care of you ? is your gun fixed?

any update Kekoa?

This is sure a lot faster – Thanks!

quote synopsys:

Try this…

Then “Preview” your post. Click on the small image and a new window with the large image will open.

Right click on the image and “Copy Image Address”.

Go back to the reply box, click the button above the text box that says “Img” and paste the link between the code (the cursor will automatically appear in the right place between the code).

Erease the original photo link and you have the full size image set into the body of the post.

hey Kekoa,

Has Ed returned your PM ? what is his take on this? :popcorn:

quote Kekoa:

Update: I cleared the pellet(s) jammed in the barrel. I filled to about 145 bar to be safe and tested fired. It shot as normal. I filled to 220bar and now I get very little FPS. I have no chrony so I cant tell you a number for sure but when I shot at a 2×4 it bounces off.

Low pressure at 145 bar, the hammer can open the valve to shoot as normal. But high pressure at 220 bar, if the reg. was working, it would shoot as normal too. To me, the reg. is not working. replace o-rings on reg. or send it to Ernest who can help you to set it to 130 bar.

Nothing wrong with the advice you gave (and I certainly didn’t mean to throw it away!), if someone wants to keep a bunch of photos with the ability to link them to various forums and outside independent hosting service is the only way to go. PB, Imageshack, flickr, etc.

Did you notice that when PB redid their stuff ALL links to the posted photos were destroyed? I’m suspect that their sever system was overloaded with link bandwidth use. They cleared it ALL with the change in format. Can’t be just a coincidence. 😯

From a few forums i’ve been to over the years the ones with their own photo hosting service tend to still have the images (2004 to now). Small sample size I admit, but within a smaller sample size (PB) they just unlinked EVERYTHING and I suspect they will do it again.

You do have a valid point though, any photo hosting service can do a bandwidth wipe at any time. 😉

All my good advice down the drain? Photobucket operates at a crawl now but it kind of works. Who handles all of the photo storage on Talon then? It can be massive.

quote synopsys:

Please don’t use photobucket, it makes it often the photos don’t show up and when they (PB) change their shit for the fifth time (essentially wiping all their links clean, a bandwidth freeing move) your photos will no be there for future reference..

NOTHING is worse than looking back at a thread like this if you have the same issue and the photos are gone.

One of the reasons why this forum was moved to this format was to have a built in photo hosting service.
Click the link below the reply box (on the left) that says “Add image to post”. 😉

Try this…

Then “Preview” your post. Click on the small image and a new window with the large image will open.

Right click on the image and “Copy Image Address”.

Go back to the reply box, click the button above the text box that says “Img” and paste the link between the code (the cursor will automatically appear in the right place between the code).

Erease the original photo link and you have the full size image set into the body of the post.

Please don’t use photobucket, it makes it often the photos don’t show up and when they (PB) change their shit for the fifth time (essentially wiping all their links clean, a bandwidth freeing move) your photos will no be there for future reference..

NOTHING is worse than looking back at a thread like this if you have the same issue and the photos are gone.

One of the reasons why this forum was moved to this format was to have a built in photo hosting service.
Click the link below the reply box (on the left) that says “Add image to post”. 😉

Setup an account in Photobucket.com. Then upload your photos to them. Then click on each picture and copy bottom link on right box side of web page. Then paste it into your Talon post. Its that easy. 😀

quote Kekoa:

How do you post photos. I have some and I just cannot figure it out.

Thanks!

Hi Kekoa.

The transfer port is in the front breech block before the barrel. On the R2.5s, the barrel butts up against the front face of the breech block and it is sealed by an O ring. The face of the breech end of the R2.5 barrel has a groove machined in it for an O ring.

On the R3s, the barrel screws into the front end of the front breech block.

On both the R2.5 and R3, the transfer port enters the front breech block before the barrel’s breech end. The barrels don’t have a transfer port in them so there is no worry about having the barrel’s transfer port alighned with the breech transfer port. The cocking handle probe pushes the pellet past the transfer port and into the barrel. The probe has 2 O rings that seal the rear of the front breech block. The 2 O rings seal the front breech’s bore just behind the transfer port. They never touch the transfer port or slide past it.

Also: the front breech block has a bore that is larger than the pellet and, if the transfer port did have a burr, I don’t think that it could shave any lead off due to the larger bore size. Once the pellet is past the transfer port, the pellet is pushed into the lead in of the barrel. The lead in could have a burr in it causing the pellet to have some lead shaved off.

The brass O ring between the front breech block and the air valve housing needs to be used. An O ring will just blow out of the transfer port and into/out of the barrel. My first Matador was included in Tony’s second US shipment of Edguns. I have had it over 4 1/2 years and I have owned 5 Matadors total. None of mine have had a rubber O ring in the transfer port from the factory, they have all used a brass one.

My first R3 was taken apart at customs, the brass O ring was lost and a rubber one was used to replace it. Tony’s first US shipment of R3, 25 longs all had the copper O ring replaced with a rubber one at customs. IIRC, there were 5 of us that got the R3s with the rubber O ring. None of us 5 could keep a rubber O ring in the transfer port. The rubber one would only last a couple of shots before blowing out of the barrel. I found a Teflon O ring that would work for us until we got the replacement ciopper O rings from Ed.

I think that you have 2 problems going on right now:

1) 2500 shots on a new gun is way too many without cleaning the barrel! A new barrel will lead up pretty quickly and needs a good cleaning every 500 or so shots. As the barrel breaks in, it won’t need cleaned as often. That being said, I still use a pull thru and cotton patches every 500 shots. I just keep pulling the patches thru until they come out clean.

Do a Google search for “crown saver” and order one. To use the crown saver, cock the gun, push the crown saver thru the shroud, thru the barrel and out of the rear of front breech block. A patch is then added and the crown saver is pulled back out. Note: the gun doesn’t need to be taken apart to clean the barrel, I keep my crown saver in my gun bag and I have used it at the range often.

2) The 2 loose screws on the front breech block were allowing the air pressure to leak and causing a drop in fps.

Did unscrew the barrel from the breech block? if so check the bore alignment to the block to make sure ther is no sharp edge collecting lead.
You have no reason to touch the reg.. the transfer port o ring is between the valve body and the base of the breech block. My early steel breech R3 is rubber but maybe ed is fitting a copper/brass washer here now?

How do you post photos. I have some and I just cannot figure it out.

Thanks!

quote Wingman NZ:

There will be nothing wrong with your barrel.. a soft lead pellet cant damage the hard steel of your barrel.. you will find your problem is a build up of lead on the forward side of the transfer port.. you may have a small sharp bur of steel from the drilling process on the transfer port collecting a skim of lead a the pellet passes it. It could also be a broken transfer port O ring that has come adrift and is partually protrunding into the barrel.. either case your barrel needs to be removed and the problem fixed acordingly. I have remove transfer port burs before with a close fitting twist drill bit just turning it in your hand. some polishing may be required.

Very good theories Wingman NZ. I checked the O-ring from the regulator to the transfer port, mine is brass, and it was in tact and in place. When I loosened the allen screws that holed the air tube to the barrel one was loose. Do you think that could cause a loss of air equating to lesser FPS from the gun. My previous post updates what I have done to get to this point and this question.

Can I substitute a rubber O-ring with the brass one on an R3.5? It does not look damaged but it is open so I thought maybe I would replace it. Input??

Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 35 total)

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