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Can you post pics of your modification. I’m interested in seeing how it works. I also have the older model with out the lip and recess.
thanks!
gAbe
Look @ post #18
Dr.:evil:
Doug…[/quote]
Which one do you have, the one with or without the recess? Mine is an very early r3 without so the barrel could point as it wanted and sometimes the adjustments on the scope wasn’t enough… 🙁
Dr.:evil:[/quote]
Mine has the recess in the front mount for the locator/rear moderator tube insert and an o-ring to center the barrel but I will make a piece like yours to take advantage of the oem recess and locate it positive and test with and with out it using the oem o-ring setup for the control sample. In the rear I think it is best to do a pair of dowels in the bottom corners as removal later leaves plenty of meat to go back to original if it should not work out as thought.
Dr. 👿
Can you post pics of your modification. I’m interested in seeing how it works. I also have the older model with out the lip and recess.
thanks!
gAbe
Doug…
Which one do you have, the one with or without the recess? Mine is an very early r3 without so the barrel could point as it wanted and sometimes the adjustments on the scope wasn’t enough… 🙁
That’s the reason for me doing that mod.
For counter sinking I used a reamer and a drill press not worth the name (and a steady hand).
I really don’t think it’s necessary to do both ends when it’s done properly in the front and bolted down in the breech.
Have you tried with a thicker oring? I did but without the recess it didn’t do nothing…
If you have access to a dail guage it’s quite easy to test and see if the barrel returns to zero.
Dr.:evil:
Thanks for your work here, I am doing the same in the rear at the breech but was considering dowels there and was going to let the o-ring in mine at this location do the centering, now that you have me thinking about it, this is the way to go in that spot at the same time. Work Work Work…
Doug…
No dice ! They have a good Shop for parts anodizing in Lund. I don´t think they´d charge you one Penny for it either since that small part is easily done with another customers batch of matte black items. I used them often for MC parts i wanted to re-anodize and since they do a lot of work for my employer they never charged me.
I´ll , however , charge you many money for driving all the way at your House, pick up the distance, drop it at the Shop, talk the needed ” hi guys – long time no see. What´s up? Yadayada ” – pitch, collect the part when it´s finished and drive those 10 long and overly boring miles back to your house again.
So – you buy it and if you ask very nicely i may try it. 😉
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2. This POS iPhone sucks though …
You buy = I’ll try OK?
Dr. 👿
Get it anodized in matte black = close enough.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2. This POS iPhone sucks though …
Looks ok but haven’t checked how much the POI changes after you loosen and re-tighten it but it can’t be worse than before, +-4mm easy.
I can re-machine the original but then I’ll have to make some kind of insert or adapter but if I make a completely new the finish won’t match…
Decisions decisions what to do…
Dr. 👿
Just to clarify my last Post : So now it´s centered, round and has the recess ??
Just to clarify my last post…
Dr. 👿
Attachments:
So now it´s finally perfectly centered and round ?? As should´ve been from the get-go .. 😀
Matador R3.1/3 Evil style
Dr. 👿
Attachments:
here is mine, actually not mine, this is the one that brother Tedd sent me with a lifetime O-Ring spares… Thanks Tedd…
however still not used this, but 100% sure that is perfect tool,
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Which one do you have, the one with or without the recess? Mine is an very early r3 without so the barrel could point as it wanted and sometimes the adjustments on the scope wasn’t enough… 🙁
Dr.:evil:
Mine has the recess in the front mount for the locator/rear moderator tube insert and an o-ring to center the barrel but I will make a piece like yours to take advantage of the oem recess and locate it positive and test with and with out it using the oem o-ring setup for the control sample. In the rear I think it is best to do a pair of dowels in the bottom corners as removal later leaves plenty of meat to go back to original if it should not work out as thought.[/quote]
My problem was that after disassembly and reassembly it wouldn’t hit a barn wall… From the inside!
After some inspecting I found that the shroud was machined eccentric (the hole wasn’t in the center) and the holes didn’t line up probably due to a vodka impaired russian machinist behind the lathe, maybe a distant cousin of hOOt’s.
Ahaa I thought that’s the reason for the re-alignment problem which when at its worst made it impossible to get the moderator casing on there due to the fact it is touching the air reservoir.
Fine on the keyboard to Ed (twice) to hear if a new one is available but no answer…
So I took matters into my own hands soo to say and fixed the shroud best I could so now the ends are square at least but still it didn’t re-align properly.
Then I turned my attention to the rear shroud baffle and began thinking of a mod that would fix the problem and by skipping the oring and making the piece with the tolerances within 0.0012 of an inch.
Now the barrel re-aligns and as soon the pack ice and penguins clears the range I will test the performance of the gun…
Dr.:evil: