Need Advice: Convert Talon SS to Talondor
I purchased a .22 Talon SS and later added a 12″ .25 barrel and then an 18″ .25 barrel. I’ve seen a large coyote near the chicken coop and find fresh scat in the yard so I’m wondering if the .25 Talon SS with 18″ barrel is up to the job or maybe I should convert to a Talondor.
I searched the site to find out if there was a clear list of parts and write-up to do this but couldn’t find what I need. Can anyone advise me on this? Is it as simple as phoning AirForce and buying the parts?
Is there a downside to this and is it reversible?
Thanks!
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i converted my Talon to a Talondor with parts and advice supplied by AF factory…no problems except one that i posted about here on the bolt closing.
http://talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=31116
IT SHOOTS VERY WELL!!!
thanks for the response… good point about risking a leak, etc.
Hi,
you will need a new valve assembly. Take down your current valve and replace it with the hi-flow one.
Remember to de-gas the tank! 😯
To get a new valve assembly you can contact AirForce or get it from a tuner or some of the any availalble chinese assemblies.
There are instructions in this forum on how to do the switch.
Honestly, I would suggest you to hold on one more month and add some funds to your piggy bank and get yourself a hi-flo tank.
It’s just so much easier and you end up with a spare that you can use to convert the talonss back if you need (even temporarely).
I know it is fun to tinker, but with tanks and valves you might end up with leaks or other issues.
Cheers
Chris
sorry to reopen an older thread…
i have a .22cal talon ss and also bought a TT condor hammer with slap-mod & adjustable top-hat.
Tony from TT said I need the hi-flo tank to run that set-up in my talon ss but I dont think I want to buy a new tank for that…
how do I convert my stock (non-spin loc) talon tank (regular flo) to a hi-flo?
i searched around and there really isn’t any clear instruction on this…
thanks
Do you have a Chrony? I would start with maybe a 2200 – 2400 PSI fill, then see what speed the gun is shooting. Add a little more pressure say 50 -100 PSI at a time until you see it drop velocity. Or you can go the other way, fill to 2800-3000 then shoot till it starts to rise, find the sweet spot. This will be where you start getting multiple shots at a higher velocity than where the gun started with the higher fill. Check your tank pressure, you now have a good idea where the gun likes to start it’s fill pressure from. You will most likely go just a bit higher on the fill so you will see a shot or two 5%-10% lower than your sweet spot, then shoot until it’s falls back to the starting FPS. If your trying to get the most out of a full fill you will most likely have to crank up the power wheel and see if it will pop the valve open, only issue there is you may get several shots very fast, then the following shots steadily falling in velocity. My specific gun with an 18″ 25 barrel, the R&L hi-flo valve, and a custom heavy hammer shoots quite well with a 2600-2800 max fill turned all the way down, unless I’m using 43 grain or heavier ammo.
Hope this helps some, if not do some more tests, post your results, and the whole group will chime in to help.
Casey
I dont use the original valve of my condor ss, i made my own “one piece brass top hat” ^^ its 1.45″ long
Lets see 
Tal vez ha alguien mas les sirvan estos Datos
Saludos desde el salvador
CONDOR .25 SS
Enviado desde Area 51
Like this, and also use only the hamme whitout the weight
Enviado desde Area 51
Hello ^^, lets try this, 1) shoot in power 0., 2) fill your Gun at 2100 psi
If you have a stock hi flo valve unscrew and adjust it when the internal tube kiss the top hat
Enviado desde Area 51
Knife
I’m having some trouble or else this is a new learning curve. I filled the gun to 3000 on the AF gage which is really around 2800 psi and zeroed it in at around 35 yards with JSB Exact 25.x grain. Before the swap it was the .25 cal, 18″ with stock Talon SS tank and hammer. Now I have the high flo tank with a weight added between the spring and hammer.
It took longer than expected to zero it in. Once I was down to around 2200/2000 psi I could hear the hammer sounding differently but the POI was consistent. When I refilled, the POI was way off, maybe 4″-6″ low.
I’m at the point where I have to line up 4-5 of the Birchwood Casey yellow spot targets in a vertical line just to see where the POI is when I refill. I was hoping to watch how the POI changed as the tank went down and will run more test once I have my carbon fiber tank refilled.
I never had this problem before with wild change in POI upon refill from 2000 back up to 3000. Help!
Mission accomplished! Since the plastic screw is soft, I used a small flat bladed jeweler screwdriver to remove it. I put enough pressure on it to engage the broken plastic screw and then tried to back it out. Suddenly it came out, still attached to the screw driver. It’s only about 1/8″ long and the shortest screw I could buy is 1/4″. I put in the new one all they way and it binds. I backed it out one full turn and it’s free but doesn’t leave the screw loose either.
Good idea. I plan to remove the power wheel but the shear point is below the surface. My first approach will be to try to flatten the sheared off end so that I can make a small starting point in the center for the tap drill. I might pre-heat something to do this like maybe the head of a small brad.
Ideally the tap drill will follow the hole and the tap will just re-thread what’s already there. Otherwise, I’ll just make a new clean hole.
I would pull the barrel and take out the power wheel you might have just enough there to get with some pliers or tweezers pulling the power wheel is easy if you haven’t done it follow my how to install TalonTunes hammer video
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Just realized the screw was plastic. The key is 3/32″ and that means screw is 4-40. Will run a hot needle into the old broken screw, start the drill, retap, and add a real screw.
Call Tony at TalonTunes he has stainless steel power wheel screws he will know the thread size
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dwalk29 –
i saw that thread that you linked to about your issue but noticed there was not follow up as to what fixed it… can you advise just in case i encounter your issue? also any tips?
1- i have a plan for degassing the tank via the ‘penny’ or ‘dime’ method with the fill adaptor.
2- i saw that i need a vice, 5/8″ rod, and possibly a torch to loosen the valve assembly and unscrew it from the tank.
3 – with the valve assembly in hand it looks like i’m just swapping one component for another – got conversion parts coming from AF with exception of my using the TT condor slap-mod hammer and TT adjustable tophat.