EDGUN Lelya OFFSET MODERATOR alignment issue
Ed, most be using a special alignment tool to torque the moderator. watch the video and see. I torque the barrel at least 5 times and still have clipping, even rotating the mod to find the center line to muzzle to baffle so you have the deal with both when re-torqueing, its hard to adjust one without affecting the other. for sure I can get it aligned just matter of time and that I really don’t have much of–so alignment tool is in the works.
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I found the barrel thread is M1.25 and 12 mm OD. Can anyone make an adapter M1.25 to 1/2-20″unf for regular LDC to attache?
bushing is from a pellet tin that is .35mm if you can fine a shim that is .40mm the better. tap the shim on the bushing with a wood or rubber hammer till its circular with the bushing.
Just did this modification on my .25 Lelya, really simple to do 😀
Only difference is that I used 2 ‘wraps’ around the barrel torque nut which seemed to do the trick – my material of choice for this operation was from an empty soda can which measures .20mm thick. 2 x ‘wraps’ around the nut gives the magical .40mm :8:
Barrel to silencer alignment ‘clocked’ straight in with minimal ‘faff’, what more could you ask for 🙂
Just watch your fingers on the cut edges though, I now sport a band-aid on my finger …. 😳
Thanks for the fix Ernest, works a treat 😀
The Cad
I’m with you on that, and everybody has different methods in torqueing.
You must have a certified calibrated eye to see the true alignment of the shroud looking through the barrel.
I have used alignment rod that goes through the shroud and barrel as a pre check alignment, in and major repair/mods, disassembly/reassembly you must test for accuracy to verify the work or adjustments is made—-> that include clipping. no wasting pellets here! :ugeekn:
The problem is every time it gets tightened now the barrel may point somewhere else.
Sorry no barrel is free floating when its torque at the muzzle,
I agree that the alignment of that offset moderator is not an easy task. However, I think you can remove the breech and simply look through the loading port along the barrel. At the end you shouldn’t see the shroud or if you see it (the law of perspective) the circle should be even. This is all you need. You do not need to shoot and waste your time to check if there is clipping going on.
Hi Ernest, Can you tell that what thread size the .177 lelya barrel is?
Wouldn’t putting a spacer/bushing around the barrel make the barrel no longer free floating which could cause accuracy problems? Maybe Ed can tell us how he assembles them and how it should be done?
duh… my apologies. It was crazy here yesterday and I missed the video. I am surprised at the slop shown in the video. Looks like either they shipped w/ wrong size OD nut, or the moderator was drilled w/ oversized hole.
Great solution though. I knew I was missing something…
Well done Ernest!
I would make a bushing for around the OD of the barrel nut. that way it centers the barrel. …..
I made one in Delrin, but was to thin to be useful, takes to long to use metal, the split bushing work fine and only took under 3 min to cut and shape. When I get another Lelya to tune I will make it out of aluminum and no clearance fit.
ernest….
I would make a bushing for around the OD of the barrel nut. that way it centers the barrel. …..
Is that a turnable section on the exit hole side? How is the vulcan? I just saw them (been out of airgun loop most of year) and they look interesting. left hand mid-gun cocking and such.
thanks
-L
your right about the orientation, I too had the .30, but the Lelya baffle has an excessive clearance around the T-nut and hole around the barrel (oblong hole) of the shroud so when torque the orientation of the baffles holes will be off center from the barrel to prevent that I added the .35mm split bushing.
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Hows about working on the Offset moderator hole instead.
Reduce the diameter of it’s hole to fit the barrel snugly …….. a similar shim as above should work on the inside.
Then adding a steel washer in between the barrels tensioning nut and the inside of the Offset mod.
This will reduce the galling of the two different metals, aluminum and steel have high friction rates.
Compared to steel on steel, so once positioning the mod it won’t spin and or prone to move when tightening the nut.
Lube all friction points on the nut and barrel threads with a bit of moly .. wouldn’t hurt.
Just my thoughts ……….
The steel washer worked well on my R3Ms frame twisting while torquing of this nut, got only a 2-3 clicks left off of Optical Center.
Also, careful and cool it on the torquing it’s way more easier to overtorque with all that friction removed.
~ Greg