talon p 24inch conversion prroblem
hey everybody
first sorry for my english i come from france so it s difficult for me to have a perfect language
i have ordered a talon p few months ago..
after that i have ordered a 24inch barrel..but bushing barrel are not the same and my origial talon p screw doesn t fit on my new bushing..
could you say me the good size?i know it s a grub screw but it s impossible to me to know the good size..
please help me
All Replies
:hoot:
How did the picatinny rail fit onto the dovetail? Where did it come from?
Hoot:
Loic,
Thank you, very much for posting that! I was just at the hardware store. Wish I’d have known, I would have looked for these screws. You may not be interested, but here’s a very wanting image, of a Talon-P with microlite bullpup kit and 24″ barrel: https://www.dropbox.com/s/dtzgvrlm0seh319/DSCF0502new.jpg?dl=0
:hoot:
With Maddog and Tag’s new gear, the TalonP is going to see some interesting innovation in the coming year. Their mods make this little beast almost infinitely variable…given the appropriate time and a few optional parts…it can be a 27″ nasty-wicked little truck gun, or a long range, long barrel, distance shooter!!!
Either way, we win, and at a manageable upgrade expense. Should be an interesting year for the TalonP owners/owners-to-be!!!
Hoot:
Hi Loic,
Thank you for purchasing our TalonP air pistol. The screws needed to properly install the 24″ barrel are 2 side screws 10-32 x 5/16″ cup point set screw and 2 bottom screws 10-32 x 3/8″ cup point set screws. I hope you are able to find this size through your local hardware store. Please feel free to contact us with any questions.
Best regards,
Rachel Gonzales
Auto-Numatic Corp.
Retail Products Division
AirForce Airguns 1-877-247-4867
BKL Technologies 1-877-255-2001
AirForce International 1-817-247-4867
PO Box 2478
Fort Worth, TX 76113
Fax 817-451-1613
Hoot,
The main reason for me choosing a 22 3/16″ barrel length is because with the microlite bullpup kit this number equals 18″. Which means that I can order an R&L shroud for an Escape UL, but specify that I have an 18″ heavy barrel instead of the OEM 18″ 12mm barrel. Then Randy can substitute the threaded front barrel bushing for me and I just install it, it works, no screwing around. The other scenario is if I choose to buy a Condor SS and put this microlite bullpup on it, the same thing applies. The 22 3/16″ barrel muzzle will be in the exact same place as the OEM 18″ barrel, which means that i can use the guns OEM Soundlok suppresion system. No more added shrouds, unless I want them. I shot this 24″ barrel tonight, in the near dark. I will not be doing that again until I have a shroud installed. My wife even came running outside to see what was going on. It was rediculously loud!
:hoot:
My dear Mr. Beers,
The last pcp barrel I cut off was with a Dremel cutoff wheel. Quite easily done, but undertaken with considerable care. “Squaring” the end requires a bit of craftsmanship, and perhaps a bit of grinding and honing to provide a decent final presentation to the observer.
To “Crown” the barrel, I have used a fresh tapered Dremel grinding stone at low speeds, and the crown turned out quite well indeed. I am not a believer in “chokes” on the end of pcp barrels, and might even be want to argue that artfully done, a very light, delicate touch with hand tools can result in the rifling ending evenly, sharply, and if one is using the proper diameter pellet, a choke is not apt to provide any measurable improvement in accuracy. In fact, men far more experienced than I have reported improved accuracy following the removal of a choked barrel end. Not everyone would agree.
Nonetheless…I would be interested in your process, step by step, and am curious as to the reason for the length you mentioned. I’ve been a fan of 16″ to 18″ barrels in bullpups, but have read remarkable accounts of long barrel results in the .257 caliber, long distance pcp shooters!
Hoot:
Hoot,
Thank you for posting that very interesting info. The 16″ barrel install would require you to make new barrel dimples for locking the bushings in place. I did this very thing, today, on my drill press. Dave said that the rear end of the barrel (the front end too) moves 4 1/8″ rearward. I measured 4 3/16″. This means that the new barrel bushing dimples will have to be relocated 4 3/16″ forward (towards the muzzle.) I do not have a lathe (at this time, but I anticipate having one very soon), but cutting barrels is very simple. it just requires some elbow grease and a bit of patience. I will be cutting this 24″ barrel back to approx. 22 1/8″, soon. If you want, I can photograph the process (steps) and walk you through it. I’ve been doing this kind of work (without a lathe) for the past 25 years and it yields a result that is every bit as good as a machinist can acomplish with a lathe. Just let me know.
Ioic,
I installed the 24″ barrel in my Talon-P (w/ Microlite Bullpup Kit) today. I used the 2x side screws in the bottom. The front cap screw worked perfectly as a side screw. So, if you do the same you will only need to get another front cap screw or make one from a longer 10-32 screw, from a hardware store. Oh, then you might need another front cap screw, too. Bill25 offered to send you some shorter screws, I think, but in the event that he did not, I shared this info with you.
:hoot:
So, in trying to follow this topic….the TalonP barrel bushing screws are not the correct length, but they are the correct diameter and thread???
And…if one wanted to put a 16″ barrel in a TalonP, he would need to obtain how many of these replacement screws?
With the Micro-Lite kit/Maddog mods, a 16″ barrel in the TalonP would give a serious increase in fps, making it a seriously powerful little bullpup conversion! I once put
a 15″ barrel in a Talon SS and the difference was substantial…and I was shooting slugs at that time. Those few inches of barrel make a lot of difference over the 12″ factory barrel.
It has been mentioned that the fps increase ranges from 25 to 50 fps per inch of barrel added. I tend to think the higher number is more correct.
This change makes at least two things possible…you can raise the speed on heavier pellets/slugs by 150 to 200 fps using the same amount of air per shot, and/or you can dial back the power to keep the gun under 900 fps and increase your shot count in the process. AND the gun stays short, perhaps a bit louder, but still around 27″ OAL.
A body could end up with a 60 fpe TalonP with the right mod here and there. That’s a serious little truck gun!
Hoot:
other question
where we can find diagram disassembled?(with spare part numbers)
so i am wrigt about this problem
could you say me what are you doing to fix it?if you could post the good size spec it will be very nice
Yes you got it correct :biggrinn:
I thought about it. The original Talon-P barrel is 12mm diameter. The 24″ barrel is 16mm diameter. So the 24″ barrel bushing holes are probably not as deep as the Talon-P barrel bushing holes? And the Talon-P frame to bushing screws are too long?
yes you explain exactly my problem!!! 😉
so i would like to order the good size screw
I probably have the shorter grub screws for 16 mm bushing. Can send you those free if you want…. :smilen:
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The picatinny rail is made to go on a Hammerli 850. I bought it from Pyramydair for $28 or $29. Putting it on required my son coming over and holding the frame while I pounded it on with a 2×4 and 22 oz carpenters hammer. It took 10-15 minutes of effort. It’s on so tight that if I didn’t use the 4x set screws, it would still probably never give a problem. Unfortunately, I have to drive it forwards some more ’til it overhangs the forward part of the rail an inch or more. I will then cut off about 1″, then take a second one of these picatinny rails and cut it to length and pound it all rearward again. The forward ring in the pic is in the last forward slot. I anticipate putting a longer scope on the rifle, so the forward ring will have to be relocated forward of where it is presently.
I know that I promised a pictoral tutorial of my barrel cutting process, but things have changed. Either tomorrow or saturday I intend to go to Harbor Freight and buy the little 7×10 Central Tool lathe, that they have in the store. I was reading about it this evening and I discovered that if the stock is less than 3/4″ it will fit through the spindle. This means that I can cut my first barrel ever on a lathe. It also means that I can thread the end of the barrel.