Taipan mutant shorty stock replacement?
I recently dropped my mutant out on a hunt which resulted in a cracked stock. Any idea where I can find a replacement stock. I have thought about aftermarket stock also,just not real sure if I’ll like it as much as original stock. If anyone has some input on stocks please let me know. Thanks
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OP, do you post over at Airgun Nation? There is a member there that may have an extra stock he may be willing to sell.
You could do your research on him and then private message him. I don’t know if I know him besides his screen name. But he pm’ed me over at AGN so I’m just passing along the word…
https://www.airgunnation.com/members/mick-va/
He’s got a lot of “accuracy” points so he should be good to go.
Thanks everyone for the input on glue I’m gonna try to clamp the stock as mentioned just to see if it closes the hairline cracks is small and barely visible to the eye,I didn’t even see it at first I found it by feel, finding cracks by feel is not always good :rofl: time to shop for some glue
for the O.P.
don’t overlook Loctite superglue, if it’s only a hairline crack you can pour some superglue in there and aid the flow with a hairdryer, the warm glue will flow deep in the cracks then just squeeze the stock to get that crack tight.
I’ve been using Loctite superglue to glue nock overlays on my bows for over a decade and never had a failure.
Good deal, fellas. At least my past research on wood glue (application-dependent) resulted in a positive choice.
I shit you not, I enjoyed the few projects with wood that I did so much that I invested in a decent amount of woodworking tools…but with every new hand tool or machine meant less space to use them in. So ironically I’ve got a bunch of tools but can’t use them. So any woodworking has come to a screeching halt. What a tool I am. Only really needed one last tool, the most important tool, a jointer but no room for it. My dumbass would run planks through the planer and wonder why it’d go in bowed and also come out bowed. Duh, once I thought about the simple science behind what the planer’s purpose is, it made sense. Hence the need for a jointer.
OP, good luck with your decision and let us know if you pursue this further. Would love to know the outcome.
TITEBOND III is an excellent wood glue.
We use it to glue up laminates on wood only bows like Bamboo backing over Osage or Ipe, Titebond III will stand up in that application for a lifetime of hard shooting of said bows, …… so no problem whatsoever for static wood working.
Would the wood glue stand out too much against the stained wood of OP’s Taipan, even though it’s a hairline crack? As you said, the clear epoxy would be better than wood glue. He’d also have to sand and finish the final product or you think it might be okay if he clamps it and wipes away the excess epoxy?
The problem I had with Titebond 3 is it like 2 doesn’t dry as clear, a bit more working time though.
Epoxy is probably better but can become a bitch/mess to work with if ones not use to it doesn’t like to be played with for to long.
It depends on how the crack closes, if it’s tight I’d wouldn’t want to refinish the stocks clear coat for a small crack like that.
OP could perhaps preclamp to see how much closer before hand.
For me my main concern is I wouldn’t want dirt and moisture to get into the crack, not strength the crack looks small and short.
But his satisfaction is only his own and if he’s not satisfy with the outcome he could go the extra to refinish if he chooses.
Even black out if the out come is that unsatisfactory for him ?
If so he could fill any imperfection and sand smooth with 220g before applying the blacken bed liner spray.
~ Greg
Hey boss, how’s your take on Titebond III. After reading many reviews, that’s the bottle I settled on. I’ve only made a custom stand out of reclaimed pine pallets with my son and it came out nice, though we never really put the glue to the test as things are hidden pocket screwed together and glued. I know, real man would make proper joints, but hey, I’m a rookie. I’ve got the tools, but lack the experience.
Would the wood glue stand out too much against the stained wood of OP’s Taipan, even though it’s a hairline crack? As you said, the clear epoxy would be better than wood glue. He’d also have to sand and finish the final product or you think it might be okay if he clamps it and wipes away the excess epoxy?
Questions, is that the only crack ?
How is the pistol grip, any cracking there ?
I’d masking tape off the crack about 1/16″ away on both sides.
Wearing rubber gloves try to rube the epoxy into the crack as much as possible then clamp.
Use paper towels to wipe off the excess and level the surface as much as possible.
Remove tape before the epoxy sets up ……. and leave it to set up overnight.
If this is your first time fixing wood with epoxy I’d look for an old table leg or similar item and crack it with an axe to practice on that first.
If you can find an epoxy that sets up 1-2 hours it would be better working time or you my need to rush the job.
If you still not sure about using epoxy Titebond Original is a very strong wood glue that’s water based clean up with about 1/2 hour working time.
~ Greg
I’d use one hour clear epoxy rub hard into the crack then use a pony clamp from top to bottom, wipe off any excess that appears and let it set overnight.
If the clamps have no padded jaws you could use a couple of layers of corrugated cardboard instead.
Across the top action convex side use a small piece of wood ……
~ Greg
Ok is there a certain name brand epoxy I should look for , what is the best cleaner to wipe if I accidentally make a mess on stock apologize for questions just never used that one before
Remove the action from the stock.
I’d use one hour clear epoxy rub hard into the crack then use a pony clamp from top to bottom, wipe off any excess that appears and let it set overnight.
If the clamps have no padded jaws you could use a couple of layers of corrugated cardboard instead.
Across the top action convex side use a small piece of wood ……
~ Greg
Finally had a chance to upload a picture of this little crack. Hoot Has risen again
Dam Hoot you are alive, Rumor had you sucked a giant snot ball down your throat and passed away in your sleep
Good to know your alive and well,
I got a Mutant stock the paint is peeling off , Dam mutants are strange,
Mike
A past girlfriend of Greg’s coined the phrase, “A HARD man is GOOD to find.” :hoot:
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I talked with him and he has an extra stock but is wanting to skelotonize it as a spare. But gave me a number to a guy in Poland. Or talk to Randy that’s who got him an extra thanks