Tri-Rail AND high rings
So when I installed the tri rail, I knew I’d have to adjust the elevation up more to zero. I had to adjust WAY up to do it, after adjusting up when I first installed the scope without the rail. I don’t know how much elevation adjustment is left on the scope, but it must be close to maxed out. Had to come up 3 or 4 more inches to zero at 20 yrds.
Wondering if it’s stressing the scope in anyway when adjusted so far out in any direction and left that way? Or maybe medium high rings when used with rail? Sure is more comfortable to shoot like this tho.
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Damn, with all the other issues I’m trying to get a handle on, I really didn’t need to read this lol, but point well taken.
How do you know if it’s made properly? I want to add a scope at some point in the future, but not if it’s going to bring a bunch of grief. Does anyone use a peep sight on their gun?
do keep in mind though that there are quite a few tri-rails out there that are not machined properly… they do make the frame more rigid, but be prepared to shim your ass off.. (or get an adjustable mount)
I don’t know why I didn’t think of this earlier, but you can measure the distance between the top of the barrel and the top of the frame, then measure the distance from the bottom of the scope and the top of frame and just add the difference between the top of the barrel and top of the frame… Not perfect, but alot easier than trying the straight edge approach.
SAVAGESAM, yeah this is the kind of level I was referring to. They make ones that attach to your scope that flip up and down, but I think I like this style better as it isn’t as obtrusive and connects right to your 11mm dovetail.
Wow, that gives me some stuff to digest there Zombie… I’ll try to work with that and see how I do. Really appreciate your input here thx.
And nice looking rig you got there.
Saug,
When you get your new scope mounted, I suggest that you use the Optimum Zero Range Calculator program.
http://www.airgunexpo.com/calc/calc_opbz.cfm?
By measuring scope height, muzzle velocity, and kill zone radius, the program will calculate the zero distance that will give the fattest span of ranges over which a directly aimed (i.e., no holdover or holdunder) shot will have a point of impact (POI) close enough to the point of aim (POA) to get the job done — i.e., a hit inside the vital zone of the target in question.
For example, I used the program to calculate the OPBZ on my BSA Scorpion at 34.87 yards. Sighting in at this distance gives me a reliable kill shot within 1/4 of an inch from 17 yards out to 42 yards. We’ve tested it extensivley in the field and it is the real deal… I intend to do the same on my Condor – just waiting for my scope same as you.
You will need an accurate method for calculating scope height from bore centerline – which requires the use of a dial caliper:
Step 1: Measure the diameter of the scope (outside of the bell housing). This is variable L (for lens diameter).
Step 2: Measure the distance from the bottom of the scope to the top of the barrel. This is variable O (for offset).
Step 3: Measure the diameter of the barrel at the point DIRECTLY below the end of the optic (i.e. where you just measured from in Step 2). This is variable B (for Barrel diameter).
Note: Getting the measurements on steps 2 and 3 on AirForce rifles is made difficult due to the length of the frame relative to the barrel- but you can use a straight edge held firmly or secured against the bottom of the scope/ top of the barrel to get as close as you can with the calipers.
Step 4: Compute the scope height. SH = ( L / 2 ) + O + ( B / 2 ) and plug that number into the SH value on the OPBZ calculator.
You might find that sighting in at 20 yards – is not close to the OPBZ range, and that may give you the extra elevation clicks you need out of your scope. HTH…
Mike
I agree, I don’t know why I had to come up that much after installing the tri rail. But as I’ve said many times here before, I just don’t trust my current scope anymore anyway, and am counting the days till my new scope comes in. When it does come in, I will then start from scratch, tear the gun down, clean ID of frame, hammer, install new breach seals, and carefully mount new scope. I’m hoping to see improvements in more ways than one after this.
When changing over to the tri-rail, it should take no more than 1/2″ (apx.) of additional elevation than what you already had. It it took very much more, double check all mounting points.
Mike
Well, yes, you’re right, but it’s one of the same isn’t it? If your gun is sitting on a bi-pod, and the level shows the bubble to the left or right of center, meaning the gun is canted, (not horizontal) you adjust one leg or the other to center the bubble, so the center of the barrel bore, and center of scope should then be plum vertically.
I just re-read this and now i see what you are talking about. I misunderstood you.
Yup well that’s what shims do sam. I used a shim on my SS and it works fine.
I don’t know if it’s me that misunderstands this or not, but i think you dont want the scope tube and the bore perfectly plumb. You want a slight and i mean slight cant (rear of scope higher than front or front of scope lower than rear take your pick) so as not to use up all the adjustment of the scope getting the reticle to meet the trajectory of the pellet. At least that’s what i think. Maybe this only applies to break barrels??? I know when i bought my RX-1 i paid for a gun with less droop. Beeman had a fancy name back then and i can’t remember, “scope correction option” that’s not it but something like that.
Well, yes, you’re right, but it’s one of the same isn’t it? If your gun is sitting on a bi-pod, and the level shows the bubble to the left or right of center, meaning the gun is canted, (not horizontal) you adjust one leg or the other to center the bubble, so the center of the barrel bore, and center of scope should then be plum vertically.
I thought the bubble level was for horizontal level not vertical?
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http://talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3209 here ya go for more info about the tri rail