What scope magnification do you shoot at?
Just wondering what magnification you guys that get 1/2 inch groups shoot at. I’ve seen some of you with 24x scopes and I’m sure thats gotta help with the groupings….
I’ve been shooting 50 yards with my 4-16x set at 6x and getting groups where if I put a dime in the middle, the holes are on the outter edge of the dime. Thats not bad, right?
At what power do you guys that shoot mice and rats and birds shoot? I just thought it would be interesting to see what others prefer.
I’m torn between zooming in more to have more granularity on where I hit the bird vs. not having much field of view (which has proven to be nice for bird hunting). Zooming in more changes eye relief, etc, I just dont know if the increase in resolving power is worth more work lining up a target….
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Yes, Chairgun did all the calculations. The program is supposedly physics and ballistics-based. In obtaining mildot hold-over and hold-under, I set all the parameters in the program according to my rifle’s velocity curve, scope setup (scope height, click value at 100 yards, and magnification level), and the pellets I use. I also confirmed it in the field.
Now, shooting with predictability is one thing. Rifle-hold, trigger technique, parallax and cant elimination, breathing, and wind speed estimation are certainly other things to consider. Keep in mind that all that I’ve mentioned here need to be considered and applied in order to achieve that “perfect shot.” Boy, shooting sure ain’t easy! 😆
Here is a link to photos of my farthest shot-group made: http://talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2231&highlight=crosman+pointed+pellets
Hey Chad,
Yeah, it’s amazing how, with the laws of physics along with ballistic data taken into account, shooting what you’re aiming at at certain distances is achievable. I had decided to create the chart you saw in the photos as I just wanted to shoot without any guessing; smart-shooting, I’d rather call it. Today, I shot a rock dove at 37 yards; I used to holdover mildot as disclosed in my chart to nail the bird.
Spinj, I did something very similar to that, in that I made a card to remind myself of the near point blank, near zero, apogee, zero, and far point blank. I recently put in a new Blodnob valve and hammer, and hadn’t re-zeroed follwing the removal of my barrel. Yesterday, I finally got around to it. I was at the office where I work, where I typically zero my scope, I only had time to shoot at 22 yards (paced, not measured). I was able to use my normal 10x magnification at this range. Today, at the parents house, where I’ve got a little more room to stretch out, I tested my range card to see how close the calculations were. Cranked up to 18x magnification, the paralax adjustment is much more precise, and once focused perfectly, it’s range corresponded exactly to the distance I’d set my target. From the prone position, the first shot at 60 paced yards landed about a 1/4″ left of my point of aim, I knew I was all set. I either pulled it, or a little breeze took it. The next shot landed about 1/8″ below point of aim. My daughter thought I was nuts when I sqeezed off the shots and just started laughing hysterically. She couldn’t understand the joy that is making a gun shoot right where you want it to, predictably.
So to answer the original question, I shoot normally on 10x so I can use mil dots, but I use 18x for fine work at longer range.
Wow that is a really cool method. I may have to do that if I find somewhere to put it. You say chairgun did all of the calculations for you?
I have a Leapers SWAT 4-16×56 scope and I’ve just recently done some ranging work – marked exacting ranges on scope’s sidewheel. Also, I created a chart by using data from Chairgun to contain hold-over and hold-under points (with respect to my preferred velocity range and power curve) using the mildots for particular ranges. In marking the distances, I did it the manual way, which is using a tape measure. Surprisingly, the sidewheel’s yardage markings on my sidewheel are quite accurate as they matched the exact distances on the measuring tape. Anyway, I used the maximum magnification range to focus the targets placed at certain distances (down to the point in which there was absolutely zero parallax error) and marked them accordingly on the scope’s sidewheel. Having done all this, I can now use the magnification level that, to me, gives me the best combination of wide field-of-view and good optical clarity; that is, 8X magnification. After doing all the data plotting, I confirmed the POI at various distances and it was on point on all distances. To me, 8X mag level is good for 10 yards to 50 yards, and that’s good enough for me for hunting.
Here are a couple of photos of the chart I taped onto my scope. The green highlighted sections are my two zero points; the first zero point is at 25 yards and the second one is at 40 yards:
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My last scope purchase was a Falcon Menace 10x42mm fixed power, it’s turned out to be perfect for nearly any hunting application out to approximately 50 yards.
The mil dots just match with the mil spec (allegedly) at one mag – Just use whatever mag you want and shoot the gun to learn which hold over matches what distance.
I dont use mil dots on airguns like I would on a real gun anyway – Seems they were designed for slightly larger targets.
I believe on the leapers scopes the mil dots are accurate at 10x, so if you are doing any work with that keep it on 10x.
Now, it’s confusing, because the manual said it’s accurate on the highest magnification, but leapers told me that it’s on 10x. 😕
I have Tasco Varmint 2.5 – 10x scopes on my PCP’s and I always have them at 10x.
On Springers I tend to stick with 4x.
Both my scopes are variables, 6-20 and 4-16, but I leave them at 10X almost all the time. If I’m shooting at REALLY close range, I’ll turn them down, and I’ll use max mag for focus and to check my targets, but never for shooting, much too shaky. In fact, I like 10X so much, I bought a fixed 10X scope, but it’s a POS so I stuck it back in it’s box and let it collect dust. Someday I’d like to invest in a good 10X AO, anyone got one they’d like to swap for a 44 Mag or Hawke :-)? Later.
Dave
I set my Condor at 18x for hunting and sometimes 24x for target grouping.
Well, I just got back from the range. At 6x I get 3/8″ CTC groups at 50 yards. Moved it up to 8, and it opened up on a few groups. SO, I think I’ll be sticking with 6x for all purpose, heh. I like the quick aquisition and “darn good” accuracy over the “hella good” slower aquisition.
Took the paper out to 75 yards and got a 1/2″ CTC group – not bad, especially for 6x! Interesting note, from zero at 50 yards, i’m -5.5 inches at 75, so yea, they really do slow down alot past 50.
Guys at the range really love the condor with the shroud, heh.
Thanks for your responses!
Think most of us are either using the low end of a variable to hunt with, or some middle step for both target and hunting. There is a whole lot more need for the wide field of view at the low end in most situations…and for the rare one that you need more power, have the time to twist the selector.
Count me as one of the guys who would not care if there were but two power settings on a scope….seldom bother with anything between bottom and top power.
If i had to choose a fixed power to live with…something in the 6X to 10X area would work nicely for me.
20-40 yds, (hunting), 4-6X.
40-60 yds. 6-7X
60-75 8-X
100+ could use a little more mag. But no more than 12 hunting, 16 paper.
Powder burner at 1000Yd. 24X
Mike
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still shoot 6x ,
see more with a good 6x zeiss than a 12x Nikko Gold bla. bla. bla.
Use a target turret from 5 to 100 yards with a laser rangefinder.
Fun to hit with the first pellet ,een Beer tin ( empty 😉 ) at 100 meters ( 104 yards ).