Making the most accurate AirForce
Okay guys, let me draw upon some experience here of those who have tuned these guns. I’m considering building a Talon or Condor for Field Target and Silhouette shooting. I don’t need a ton of power, I just want good accuracy out to 60 yards and I need it to be under 20 FPE. I like the longer barrel for the extra weight, but the shorter barrel is better for a quick lock time. I could probably add weight via the accessory rails. I very adept in a machine shop, so I can probably build anything I need. So my question is this:
What modifications would you do to these guns “strictly for the sake of accuracy“?
Keep in mind power will be probably 15-16 FPE, and it could be in either caliber as 22 is better for silhouette and 177 better for FT.
Thanks,
Dan
accurategolf@yahoo.com
http://members.cox.net/accurategolf/shooting.html
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Picture of FT Talon back up
If I were to participate in a FT match, I’d have no problem with comfort and shouldering my gun for a shot. In fact, my Airforce rifle feels more comfortable than my S410ERB (as it’s too heavy) when I’m shouldering it.
IIRC, he said Tygon tubing, which is a transparent semi-flexible plastic hose. I suspect he was using it as spacers between washers for the shroud. It can easily be cut with knife or scissors which make it very easy to work with. A darn good idea.
Btw, love your train of thought and good luck with the project. Don’t forget that the air tank will move too after each shot from the pressure loss (albeit a very small movement) but it may affect your POI if it’s rested on a hard surface. A tri-rail mounted to the upper or lower accessory rail where the barrel bushings are located will fixed any frame flexibility issue easily and it’s cheap.
From the ergonomics point of view, the AF rifle is not as competitive as the dedicated FT rifles because you have to last through a day in the field and comfort factor and canting error comes into play when the rules kinda dictate your shooting positions. But it’s a true tube gun literally (even the hammer is a tube) and if half the fun is in the journey, why not ?
Best wishes
Hopefully we can get a pic, but I did notice something interesting in that post. He mentioned the use of 1″ tubing in the frame. I’m assuming for stability of said frame. That’s kind of where I was going with the one piece barrel bushing idea. Anybody else have thoughts along those lines I’d be interested in hearing them.
Dan
Ah… comeon. The picture is already dead. 🙂
a good thought but aside from adding weight, the id/od machining would have to be to extremely close tolerance to make any gain in stability and then with just minimal runout would impart unnecessary streeses to the barrel itself when mounted, possibly even making things worse; unless of course the machining tolerances were basically perfect.
What about starting with a large diameter bbl blank and machining it down to minimal weight with “integral” bushings? Probably not worth the time and effort but just a thought.
Maybe a set of bushing with slightly reduced id. which would be pressed onto the bbl instead of being secured with the current grub screws. surely these screws impart some sort of uneven stress to the barrel when tightened even minimally.
I don’t mind adding weight, in fact I was trying to figure out ways to do so anyway. Tight tolerences are okay, kind of a pain to work with but doable. Interesting thought about pressed on bushings. Using a bigger barrel blank wouldn’t hurt things either for more than one reason. Good thoughts.
DJ
A one piece barrel bushing and a scope rail that mounted right above it on the frame instead of the stock location. They use those on powder burners already. They mount directly to the barrel instead of on the receiver. That way you gun can flex all it wants but the scope and barrel are pretty much one solid unit.
a good thought but aside from adding weight, the id/od machining would have to be to extremely close tolerance to make any gain in stability and then with just minimal runout would impart unnecessary streeses to the barrel itself when mounted, possibly even making things worse; unless of course the machining tolerances were basically perfect.
What about starting with a large diameter bbl blank and machining it down to minimal weight with “integral” bushings? Probably not worth the time and effort but just a thought.
Maybe a set of bushing with slightly reduced id. which would be pressed onto the bbl instead of being secured with the current grub screws. surely these screws impart some sort of uneven stress to the barrel when tightened even minimally.
Okay, food for thought. “What if” a one piece barrel bushing was created? Seems like that could not only add ridgidity, but also reduce the tolerences where the barrel rests in the frame. Any thoughts?
Someone here bought it awhile ago. It had a knee riser and was all set up for FT.
I think it would help this discussion.
Hmm, that would be interesting. If anybody has one I’d love to see it.
Good luck, indeed.
Smaller dia. air tank could be useful………allow scope to be positioned lower/closer to the bore centerline. Also experiment with the position of the front barrel bushing………more distance between bushings may make the barrel more stable within the frame. There was a thread a month or so ago where someone here put a third bushing on the barrel and it seemed to help accuracy.
Shooting from a lower fill pressure ie 2400 down to 1600 would allow a lighter hammer while still being consistent and would have the benefit of reducing “lock time” (lighter hammer would actuate the valve faster).
A one piece tophat/valve stem would remove the inconsistency most here have seen as a result of grub screws working loose/not holding adequately.
Several here have seen good benefit to using a pellet seating tool also.
Good luck with the project.
Point taken!
I’ve a few years of ft behind me and went through quite alot of rifles with the s400 being the cheapest out of the box winner for me.
Talon for FT………no sorry, can’t help you!
Regards.
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Thank you! There is some other foo foo on there I wouldn’t need, but I like the basic layout. I think it could be added to as well. Maybe a stabilizer added to the rail to add some muzzle weight, or possibly a shroud with some weight on the muzzle.
I also agree with spinj on the comfort level, I’ve been shooting tube guns in HP rifle competition and I’ve kind of got used to them now and don’t really find comfort to be an issue.
AirTramp, can you expand on the air tank issue? This is the first I’ve heard of this potential problem.
Thanks,
Dan