Q:

My TSS Trigger Sucks!

This is a copy of a PM that I sent to Cygnus X. As I was writing it, I thought that more and different experiences from those of you who have solved this problem might benefit myself and others who are new, or just haven’t taken the plunge.

Hi Cygnus X,
I was doing a comparison of my TSS and my friends S 410. The S 410 put 5 Kodiaks in one hole. The TSS didn’t do so well…5 in the size of a nickle…at 17 yards. What I noticed was a definite difference in the triggers. The TSS being not so good. I read the post about installing the two screws…first stage and over travel. Is that all that is required to improve the trigger? Somehow it makes sense that there are parts that should be polished or something. What do you think?

Thanks for the input, Steve

p.s. I know, buy an AA S410 Classic or Carbine 😀

General Chat

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Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 19 total)

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quote SteveinLA:

Does it hurt anything to “dry fire” an AF gun without the tank in place?

I’d just like to clarify to anyone reading this that I didn’t suggest dry firing – I said without cocking – which isn’t a dry fire, that’s just pressing a trigger – will not cause any damage to the rifle at all.

If you cock the gun – Then as Cygnusx explains.

The spring which bears against the trigger can also be installed in two different positions, one closer to and one farther from the trigger pivot pin. Nearer the pin is lighter, further is heavier. mostly affects the “first stage” feel.

yes it can hurt the rifle to dry fire it(not very likely though on a stock rifle, unless you over do it)….the breech will hammer on the collar ring in which the bottle screws into….easy fix though….put a piece of wood, a sock or somethign in there to cusion the the breech hit on the back of the frame

i fond the ligtening the trigger sear spring, made the second stage much easier to find with out setting it off…as YN states the middle sear and hammer sear springs are just there to keep things in place…i am using lighter springs there too

check the rifle thoroughly after trigger mod, some of those middle trigger sears out there have really rounded edges from the water/laser cutting and they might need to be squared off so the hammer sear engages more into the middle sear, this will cure it…i posted a picture of this at one point…cant find it in my photbucket, but it might still be floating around in a post here

Does it hurt anything to “dry fire” an AF gun without the tank in place?

Thanks Y, I’ll check it out.

The springs are real weak and hardly offer any resistance to the shooter – They are just to keep the stuff in the right position so the gun can be cocked.

Actually you can see for yourself – Pull the trigger without cocking the gun… that’s the spring resistance… not much at all.

After studying the schematic of the trigger system in the reference section, it appears that there are three springs that must be overcome to release the hammer. Has anyone lightened these springs?

Y, that is so cool of you to help ATP lik that. :7

Tron, those ae some great additions :11

Otay!

quote RiffRaff:

Question:

Whats the best method for polishing the sear surfaces?

I tend to get heavy-handed with that sort of thing so I havent done it yet. I doubt I could make my own parts.

Best not to touch it if you have not done it before. It is really easy to change the geometry and totally screw up your sear if you get to over zealous.

Question:

Whats the best method for polishing the sear surfaces?

I tend to get heavy-handed with that sort of thing so I havent done it yet. I doubt I could make my own parts.

Sweet Yellow. I’ll buy you a six pack or something dude. I’ll PM you.

quote Yellow Ninja:

Airtight – I’ll do the trigger mod for free if you want it.

Thats our Yellow Ninja! :8

I didn’t do the Trigger mod on my Condor for years…. didn’t want to void the warranty. Then I bought a used Talon SS that had one of the holes drilled (preload) so I did the other one because it wasn’t covered by warranty. As soon as I got done shooting the modded trigger on the Talon SS I stripped the Condor and did the mod on that one too.

I have mine set up like Adam’s. Slack taken up on the preload so it just moved a little bit back and then no over travel so once the sear releases the trigger hits a wall and doesn’t move – the extra travel on the stock trigger would cause me to be off target if I wasn’t super cognizant of which gun I was shooting.

Airtight – I’ll do the trigger mod for free if you want it.

quote SteveinLA:

Adam, did it take out the creep?

No, a 9mm to the side of Trons brain will take out the Creep 😯

But yes it will allow you to adjust how much pretravel and overtravel there is. My guns trigger breaks quickly and easily

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