Q:

Threading the Condor Frame

I’ve finished the tooling and have done a few frames now. They are beautiful! Will get a few pics up when I get home.

Threading the LDC into the frame has its distinct advantages. For those of you with 12″ barrels, you don’t really have much to worry about; the barrel sticks out only a couple inches past the forward bushing. If you have a 17″-18″ barrel, it stops right near the front of the condor/TSS frame. Anything longer, of course, sticks out past the frame. Here is the rub:

Pretty much everyone out there making LDCs have a hard time mounting the ldc to the frame; some of the problem is that the frames come in all sorts of sizes, varying in internal diameter by several thousands, and also because the inside (and outside) of frame isn’t exactly round. So they make a best guess as to diameter and hope it fits, or else you have to send them your frame so they can custom make an ldc to fit. Other problems are also: the end of the frame isn’t square to the bore (I’ve found them to be waaaaaaaaaay off in some instances) or the end of the frame may have been damaged or nicked.

So, when they make LDCs, they just make a slip fit collar and use the little grub screw to hold the LDC in place. Some of you have had prior issues with the screw hole “migrating” due to repeated use. Others have had ldcs shoot off or damaged. The reason is, this collar-grubscrew thing is nowhere near adequate. It DOES NOT hold the ldc in good alignment with the barrel; it would flap around like a sheet in a gale storm if not for one thing: people making ldcs realize the weakness of the collar design and about 1/3 or so of the way up, they put a second close fitting collar INSIDE the ldc. This second collar goes around the barrel and grips it, and actually aligns the ldc and keeps it from flapping around. This is a good thing, because if it weren’t there, the ldc would be held only by the rear collar/grub screw. But it is far, far from desirable.

What you have is tension on the barrel… your ldc is held in alignment by the barrel itself. The barrel is no longer a ‘free floating’ design. If you have one of these ldcs, DON’T rest the ldc against something when you shoot, especially near the forward end. It WILL change the point of impact.

This is one of the reasons I bothered to develop the tooling to thread the front of the condor frame. When I thread the frame, the first step is to TRUE the inside of the frame so it is absolutely, positively ROUND so the threads will also be exactly round. I also true the END of the frame, so it is EXACTLY perpendicular to the bore. And believe me, I was surprised at how far off one of my frames was. It wasn’t even a straight cut; it was sort of like a pie crust, wavering back and forth, up and down, in and out.

The quality of the threading is pure Class III; when screwing the threaded ldc into the threaded condor frame, there is a silky smooth, slight resistance that tells me there is no play, a perfect fit. When the threaded ldc locks up against the frame, it stops SUDDENLY, immediately; there is no draaaag and then slow tightening. This tells me the two surfaces (forward edge of the frame and trailing edge of the ldc-extrusion) are EXACTLY parallel to each other, ALL of it comes into contact around the entire circumference at the same time and ensures perfect alignment of the ldc-extrusion). If you have ever played with custom or mil spec hardware, where everything is single point threaded, you know what I mean.

Because the ldc-extrusion is held in place and in alignment by the threads and by the above forward edge-trailing edge contact, there is no need for the second collar inside the ldc. The barrel can again be free floated, the way it is supposed to be. Accuracy improves. The gun itself is more robust, the extrusion is no longer a fragile piece bracing itself against the barrel; it is now solidly bonded to the frame itself. There are no adverse effects; the gun can still be disassembled as normal, by sliding the components forward and out without taking off the ldc; it stays on as a permanent piece of the gun.

aloha,
walt

Mods/Machinists

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oh and for you guys who were wondering, YES that is a sandwich in the photo no top my table. It’s on the paper towel.

walt

Update: the bench is still messy! 🙂

I have not had time to mess with the damn gun. It’s pretty quiet, given the power, but I have experiment more with different internals as I think I can get it quieter.

A couple guys asked about doing a 2″ mod that threads onto the frame; I am considering doing this, as it will give you most of what you see in these pics, just won’t go back as far. It will thread onto the front of the frame, like the M4 Condor thread I had….

If I have time I’ll make one with a 2″ ldc threaded onto it, and shoot it next to a TTT ldc on another gun and get some impressions about quietness for you guys.

aloha,
walt

quote huub74:

hi Walt,

What about an update of this topic

cheers

huub

x2

Yeah yeah yeah. If you think my BENCH is messy, you should see my sock drawer. Would knock you out, brah.

I gotta clean up my garage and the bench. Have a large project starting up in a few months and need the room….

I’ll make it nice and tidy and send you guys a pic. Hell, I might even buy some flowers for the workbench!

aloha,
walt

quote :

Dam Walt-Your bench looks like mine!

me2 😳

Dam Walt-Your bench looks like mine! 😆

Mike

hi Walt,

What about an update of this topic

cheers

huub

Oh ya Walt that thing is tite!!!!

Thanks guys. I think I may have found out why it is making more noise than it should. There seems to be air leaking out from the rear; I’ve noticed this about AF breeches; their front O rings are many times very very loose. Mine may be passing some air. I’ll have to make another breech for this gun and see if that cures it.

aloha,
walt

That Fat Boy looks really nice Walt 😎 😎

I really like the way it looks. I think it would looks better if the finish of the LCD match with the frame. Please keep us update how it shoot.

Thanks for your update.

Added pics…. note that I secured the front endcap and the rear of the tube with ‘frankenstein’ looking bolt heads. Because this is a prototype, I have to disassemble it all the time, so it has to come apart easily. The production models will be different. The ‘fat boy’ that I’m planning will probably be threaded so it can have the top cap screwed on or off.



And here is a pic of the fat boy next to a ‘normal’ condor with a mid length ldc… the longer one is 11.5″ long, I don’t like the ‘broomstick’ look of the longer ones. Excuse the mess in the shop.

Update: have it painted (black, of course!) so will post pics later so you can see what it looks like.

I’ve also fired it a couple times with and without the secondary ldc and there is a big difference, but not as big as I’d hoped for. I’d say subjectively it is a more than twice as loud without the secondary ldc. But for only about half the noise, that’s a lot more bulk to put up with.

I have decided to investigate building a condor with EXTERNAL threading instead and build a large diameter ldc (single ldc, not the doubled ldc setup I have here) to offer with it. This will be a free float big boy, of course. But, a huge can on the front of a condor looks a bit conspicuous so I am thinking it must be used with a shorter barrel, not the usual 24″. Any suggestions? I was thinking around 20″ max… this is close enough to get within spitting distance of a 24″ barrel and still do-able as far as length. The external threading will allow use of the large single ldc, but it will also come with a screw on ‘thread protector” that will also allow use of your old style slip in ldc so the rifle is not a one-ldc model only. You can go back to your old setup anytime.

aloha,
walt

Walt! Man that is cool stuff you’re up to. Thread subscribed to.

Mike, Tag, YN, 80g and Tberk; thanks for the kind comments.

Hahahaha, I found out why the 3 1/2″ ldc works so well… just chrono’d my .258 slugs and they were only going like 500fps; that’s why they were so quiet! I have a mild spring in there as I wanted to try to get away from the thumb buster springs, but if I want gonzo power looks like I’m going to have to put in a heavy spring after all… so looks like the Fat Boy will find some use, after all. Should be done with initial testing this weekend. Will keep you posted.

aloha,
walt

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