.22 Vulcan TGAG shroud
Couple of months ago if you asked me if I was going to buy a Vulcan or Mutant my answer was no. I was happy with my .22 Cricket and .25 R3M. But since I have no life and I hang out with old folks on here, I was constantly exposed to the Mutant and Vulcans. Mutant appealed to me because of how quiet the report was and the smoothness in the cocking. Very similar to the Cricket and that’s why I held out so long. Tell you the truth the Mutant compact is a very nice and quiet gun. I prefer it over my Cricket based on the weight and compactness. Then comes the Vulcan, I had a prod sitting around that was never going to get used again because of the mutant and I had other airgun accessories laying around. You guys probably saw a bunch of my ads on the Yellow. Any hoot, I was able to gather enough money to buy a Vulcan. Oak man hooked me up real nice on a used one with all the bells and whistles. He said it was too loud for his shooting even though it has the latest TGAG shroud. It baffled me so I took a chance on it. Ernest had already worked his magic and got rid of the twang and ping. But here is the thing, the gun screamed like a hungry fat lady. Oak wasn’t kidding when he said the gun was still loud. It rang my ears for a long time and this is only after a few shots. Really bummed out, I kept thinking how is this shroud so loud? I don’t own a hummingbird but others have compared this new shroud to it. Very tempted to sell it to another member on here, I gave it one last chance and made my own shroud for it. After seeing jfrazier30’s video(http://talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=33399) of how quiet his gun is I was determined to get mine to that level. He’s also shooting out of a TGAG shroud but mine doesn’t sound anything like it.
I spent a few hrs in the garage and made my own shroud. Crossed my fingers, closed my eyes and pulled the trigger. The sound was night and day! Exactly like jfrazier’s. Told Vince I am sorry but I can’t sell this gun anymore, it sounds awesome. Just hammer slap and hardly any muzzle blast. This shooting without LDC. With LDC, forget about it, super quiet. When guys say there is no hammer slap, they are lying, when metal slaps on metal there’s going to be a hammer slap. However, there is no ping. Just a quick slap.
Here is what the TGAG shroud looks like inside
Everything looks like it was CNC very nicely and the baffle holes are very tight to the .22 pellet.
Here is what is in my shroud, just two baffles, two metal curlers wrapped in felt and spacers
My shroud has 4 vent holes in a line at the top.
Also topped off with a black delrin cap.
For this one, I mad an LDC without the cone shape in the back to make it short as possible
I am very happy with this gun now but still trying to figure out why the TGAG is so loud. Any suggestions? Do I have to align the holes in the side of the baffles so that they are all in a line?
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And Donny does great work and stands behind his work!!
Thanks, Hoot. Just exactly what I needed to know
So, you’re saying to remove the REAR cap of the shroud and the set screws to take out the baffle components from the shroud?
:hoot:
To answer your last question first…just unscrew the front shroud cap and the baffles will fall out. They are separated by O-rings and you may need to tap the shroud a bit to get them out. It’s easy.
First question now…each baffle has two very thin O-rings on it…one at the baffle front before the cone begins, and one at the very rear. Any holes next to the baffles can be anywhere before, after, in the middle, of each baffle and it will vent just fine. That has been my experience.
I have eight (8) holes in a circle at the base of my shroud and air vents out of these like crazy. Front vents help too. These vents will quiet the Vulcan, but no “silence” it. For that, you need an LDC for the front. John Hagan has an adapter for that. DonnyFL has a CF LDC that finishes up the job.
Hoot:
I’ll wait a bit to see if someone who has done it chimes in.
I’m keen on doing this mod after testing if it works on my Benjamin Trail NP2. The vent holes definitely made the
muzzle report a bit more quiet and less sharp.
Had to test and verify since I’m new here and haven’t quite worked out when posts are factual vs teasing.
I wouldn’t be surprised to find an entire thread of a mod equivalent of a snipe hunt, just for newbies like me.
Anyway, my test on the BT NP2 was done with an old 1/16 bit and came out fairly ugly. It worked,
but for the Vulcan I have a new set of 0.5 to 2.0 mm bits, pin vise drill, and auto punch standing by.
I have never taken baffles out. I was just talking about the mod in hammer fix post. To get the threaded aluminum piece out you need to remove the back piece too. But I will say again no rocket science
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I just want to drill the holes to vent in front of each baffle and also drill holes to vent the rear of the shroud.
Finding the drill positions would be a easier with the baffles taken out, but if it is tough to actually pull them out of the shroud,
maybe I should just use a depth probe to feel and measure the baffle positions.
Then again, that would probably permanently lock the baffle pieces in place with drill burrs.
With the parts completely out of the shroud I can de-burr the holes.
So, you’re saying to remove the REAR cap of the shroud and the set screws to take out the baffle components from the shroud?
You should be able to just unscrew shroud with a bit of force. Don’t know how tight factory tightens them. If you want to do the mod where you enlarge the holes on adapter you will have to take the small screws out to release the shroud from threaded adapter. You will also have to find a way to remove rear cap. That can be a challenge as its on pretty tight.
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Also, Donny, your picts of the TGAG shroud don’t show any o-rings between or on the inserts.
Aren’t those 0 rings needed to isolate the stages or is the fitment that tight?
Would be interesting to know if adding O-rings like in the 2nd generation AGT shroud fixes that mysteriously loud shroud.
I want to to perform Hoot’s venting mods on my Vulcan .22’s shroud. It has the 2nd generation shroud with the separate baffles from what I can see (two set screws at middle of shroud)
As elementary a question as it may be……
How does one take the shroud apart?
It looks like one unscrews the front cap, but there seems to be some sort of material smeared around the rearmost baffle in my shroud.
The stuff looks awfully like epoxy.
Do you just unscrew front and the baffles slip out or does one have to break them free?
I would hate to apply force only to discover something needs to be done first.
what is the size of the barrel thread? wondering if an airsoft silencer like the Spartan doctrine 14mm fits! there are adapters out there if clockwise or ACW is needed. is it 14mm at all?
Just wait until we hit -30C here and the hoarde will run south faster than ever.
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Damn hoards of pack animals ! Kudos to Hungary.
I am originally from Hungary, It seems we have blocked the migrant zombie horde, well they are going somewhere else now. only 41 crossed the border, to the without the fence 5-10k a day
angela merkel saying the fence does not work, well it did for us.
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Guykuo,
Zonk helped (DID) my shroud porting and made a good point. Open it from the back end as any scratch or marks caused will not show after it is back together. We just did the back end venting as it is a .22 and not as loud as a .25.
Grab on with both hands and unscrew the tube just a little then tighten it to your taste. Use a prncil and mark its position so you can drill holes exactly in the bottom where they won’t show and will equally exhaust to both sides.
Zonk’s secret for keeping the drill bit from wandering was to locate the bottom, place some masking tape along the line of the holes, mark them then check everything to see that they won’t destroy something inside, then drill tiny pilot holes.
Most likely your vent holes will not be aligned to either of the two screws that hold the baffles in.
Oh SHIT, just noticed the FRONT CAP on mine is loose after some 1700 rounds. It pays to go over things now and again.