Q:

A 257 Cast Bullet Reference Guide

Hello Gents and Gals,

PURPOSE:
This page is a page that is dedicated to the .257 caliber Air Gun (s). Call it a Dedication Page, or call it a Reference Page or call it a Info Page, it’s all of the above. This page will stay updated with “CURRENT” info and will contain info on the guns that are available in 257. And that’s the point of the page, to share information regarding the 257 caliber Air gun and to become a quick reference page for anything that has anything to do with the .257″. This will be a page that can be found quickly and will contain all “CURRENT” info on the 257. That means MORE work for me and LESS work for you.

HISTORY:
The 257 caliber powder burner cartridge has been around since about the 1920’s. But in air guns, a 257 caliber powder burner barrel liner from TJ Enterprises has only been recently installed on a current air gun. As far as we know, Jack Haley and John Bowman are the 1st creators of such said air gun/caliber combos. And this gun is the Jack Haley .257 Scandalous which won L.A.S.S.O. in 2012 on its maiden voyage in the hands of John Bowman. L.A.S.S.O. is short for “Longrange Airgun Silhouette Shooters Organization” and it is simply and event for Air Guns only and steel targets are set up out to 300 yards. The 257 Scandalous quickly gained notoriety for what it was capable of. And that is……Long Range Accuracy and power. John Bowman would also often dispatch coyotes at well over 300 yards. John Bowman has shot 10’s of thousand’s of cast bullets in the 257 Air Gun and has openly shared all that he has learned. We owe much of what we know about the 257 today to Jack and John. The Haley Scandalous 257 is a very powerful, accurate and traditional Air Gun. Web links and pictures below.

CURRENT:
Doug Noble is an avid air gunner and an excellent machinist. Today, Doug is transforming the Airforce line of guns into 257 caliber beast. Doug has a history of machining since his early High School days and his current work on the Air Force line of guns is exceptional. His many post and pictures can be viewed right here on this very forum. Air force Air Guns have been around since 1994 and currently manufacture about 6 types of air guns. Air Force air guns are not very traditional looking and might remind you of an AR-15 type gun. No traditional wood and steel and bolt handle on these…lol! The Air force gun massaged over by Doug is one powerful and accurate “NON TRADITIONAL” rig. Web links and pictures below.
Also, .257 Airforce airguns can be bought from Randy at RandL Airguns (http://www.rlairgunsupply.com/).

CALIBER:
The .257 by nature is a small game to medium game caliber. In powder burner format such as the 257 Roberts or Weatherby…etc…etc…etc, it can take Deer/Antelope sized game at some decent hunting distances depending on bullet construction/manufacturer. But in an air gun, we stick mostly to Coyote sized game at the biggest. Its one of the best small/medium game calibers IMHO. Bullets will range from about 60+ grs up to roughly 120 grs. Nominal O.D. of bullets will depend largely on groove diameter of ones barrel on his/her gun. But sizes will run between .257-.258″ as somewhat of a norm. But again, sizes can be up to about .260″+. The B.C. or Ballistic Coefficient of many available bullets will range from .129+- up to roughly over .300 BC. And in comparison to the typical .251 caliber Diablo Pellet such as JSB, Bejamin or Beeman (H&N), which has a BC of about .030+-, the lightest .257 bullet will have roughly 4x’s more BC. So as you can see, the 257 in an air gun pushing 900-1130 fps can do some amazing distance shooting and retain a lot of energy. I MEAN……..FOR AN AIRGUN AND ALL………………….LOL!

PICTURES:
Here are various pictures of some current 257 caliber air guns


John Bowman and his 257 Haley Scandalous. Winner at L.A.S.S.O. 2012



Cedric aka Tofazfou shooting his Doug Noble TalonDor 257 Cal.


Doug shooting his custom/self built Condor 257


Joe Grits 257 Condor by Doug


RJ Porter’s Haley 257 Scandalous



RoachCreek’s Haley 257 Scandalous

.257 BULLET MOLDS (manufacturers):
RCBS MOLDS – http://www.rcbs.com/
LYMAN (IDEAL) MOLDS – http://www.lymanproducts.com/lyman/home/
NOE MOLDS – http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/index.php?osCsid=j7u9gieqlre78413k41t63lb31
HOCH MOLDS- http://hochmoulds.com/index-1.htm
LBT MOLDS (custom molds available) – http://lbtmoulds.com/index.shtml
ARSENAL MOLDS – http://arsenalmolds.com/

BULLET CASTING EQUIPMENT:
BCE can be bought from a multitude of websites and or stores. I refuse to list any in particular cause individual results might vary. But places like MIDWAY USA is a decent place to start if you want to get into casting. Bullet casting is NOT for everyone and its time consuming. At the same time, like reloading, it’s very rewarding. It also does not take a lot of equipment to get started. Here is a list of what’s needed to start casting for the 257 (or ANY caliber):
1. Safety Goggles or Glasses or even a Face Shield
2. Long sleeve Denim shirt
3. Brushed Leather Gloves
4. Long pants in either Denim or another NON FLAMMABLE material
5. 257 Bullet Mold
6. Plenty of lead
7. LYMAN, LEE or RCBS melting pot (20 lbs is a good). You can use a propane burner with some type of cast iron pot also. But that’s up to you. Do your homework.
8. Dipper/Ladle
9. Either a reloading press or a LEE hand press that will accept a standard 7/8×14 TPI sizer die
10. Bullet Lube and some studying/advise and some Common sense

Many of these molds can be found at a multitude of websites. Here is one such example: http://www.justbulletmolds.com/. Since there is always more than one website for any particular product, I will leave the shopping and goggling up to the buyer/reader who wants to shop for the lowest price on product and shipping. The web links posted up above for molds is just a guideline and not the single BEST website for said product.

PICTURES OF VARIOUS MOLDS IN .257

Doug’s 77 gr FP LBT mold


Roachcreek’s 100 gr NOE FP Mold


Tofazfou’s 74 gr FP LYMAN 257420 Mold with custom HP Pin by ERIC at HP MOLD SERVICES


Tofazfou’s 80 gr NOE FP Mold


Lyman 257 Mold



Arsenal 257420 Mold

VARIOUS .257 BULLETS:

LYMAN 257420 bullets cast by Tofazfou. FP and HP


IDEAL 100 gr HP Spitzer cast by RJ Porter


HOCH 109 gr FP’s in 20-1 lead/tin cast by Roachcreek


Various bullets cast by Tofazfou, RJ Porter and Hunters Supply


NOE 100 gr FP’s in 20-1 lead/tin cast by Roachcreek


NOE 78.3 gr HP vs 83.5 gr FP


Lyman 257420 vs NOE 80 gr

VARIOUS CAST BULLET BC #’s:
LYMAN 67 gr LFN GC 257420 = .129
LYMAN 89 gr LRN LOV GC 257464 = .204
LYMAN 89 gr LFN GC 257312 = .208
LYMAN 98 gr LSP GC 257418 = .221
LYMAN 113 gr LRN GC 257325 = .235
RCBS 117gr SP GC 257-120-SP = .271

Here is a PROCEDURE on “FIRE LAPPING” your airguns barrel submitted by Roach Creek:

Fire lapping a barrel.

I have fire lapped several rifles in my shooting career, most of them center fires that used jacketed bullets and I did it for improved accuracy, the 257 bore air guns I did for a different reason.

I fire lapped my two TJ Barrels for my Haley because I wanted them to be smoother inside to allow more shots between cleaning and for easier cleaning once fouled. Before fire lapping I was getting around 20 shots before I had considerable streaking and accuracy degradation, now it around 45 shots.

When I cleaned I used fine bronze wool on a 25 caliber brush and then followed it up with several doubled patches on a jag, then followed by #10 weight silicone oil to prep the barrel for the first shot lubed with #10 silicone oil. After fire lapping all but the most stubborn transfer deposits are removed with double patches.

The 1-14 barrel, I fire lapped with a Wheeler engineering kit from Midway, I had used their kits before and they had worked, so I was comfortable sending abrasive coated bullets down my bore, yes that does sound drastic, which is why I wanted to go with a proven, to me kit.

I prefer fire lapping to hand lapping due to the fact I ruined a Mini 14 barrel in my misspent youth and have never revisited hand lapping since.

The kit comes with three grits in little jars, 220. 320 and 600. Also included are two 1 inch by 2 inch steel plates and very clear instructions.

On my 1-14 barrel I followed the instructions on the kit, but used 15 shots per grit instead of the recommended 20 , 220. 320 and 600 and I cleaned thoroughly each 5 shots and thoroughly between grits. In the end I had a very smooth bore that resists fouling and cleans easier once it needs cleaning.

Then I fire lapped my 1-10 twist barrel and things were different.

First of all I did not use the 220 grit and I checked between shots because I was not using lube on the bullets as before so I was interested to see if they were fouling without lube because I had not checked that before on the 1-14.

And indeed they were, if I fired one shot, I could not notice fouling, on the 2nd shot I did notice fouling and on the 3rd shot I had major streaks. As a result I fired 20 shots of 320, cleaning thoroughly between shots, which is one hell of a lot of work, and then after those 20 shots I switched to 600 grit and I fired 25 shots, cleaning each time between shots.

To me the cleaning between shots was a no brainer. If I have streaking, I am polishing the lead deposited in the bore, not the bore.

When I shot the rifle after cleaning I also noticed again something different, the accuracy with100 grain NOE bullets had noticeably improved, and of course the shot count between cleaning had also.

I had miked my groove diameter prior to fire lapping and could not notice a difference in pre and prior lapping, but I was also using my “Harbor Freight caliper for the blind” so it was hard to tell if anything had changed in dimensions. Doug slugged the barrel when I had it set back for recutting the lead, it slugged out within the norms of other TJ barrels, just one heck of a lot smoother.

I did this on the 1-10 after I had cut the lead for 100 grain NOE bullets, I did not notice a increase in the lead dimensions or that they chamber any easier, they are still in that “putting a cork in a wine bottle category”.

I fully recommend the Wheeler engineering fire lap kit, but I would recommend cleaning every shot and not using the 220 grit.

Regards,

Roachcreek

VARIOUS RECOMMENDATIONS:

Cast bullet supplier that I recommend:
RJ PORTER – http://www.accuratebigboreairgunammo.webs.com/

Jack Haley Airguns (please read his webpage): ******MR HALEY PASSED AND THE WEBSITE NO LONGER EXIST – I CHOOSE TO KEEP IT UP******
http://www.southernairgunconversion.com/

CUSTOM 257 Air Force Condors: ******DOUG NO LONGER MAKES CUSTOM CONDORS******
Doug @ dyotat100@aol.com

For Hollow Pointing any bullet mold contact Eric at:
http://www.hollowpointmold.com/

.257 Barrels by TJ Enterprises

101 “QUICK TIPS/FACTS” about the 257

1. Best bang for your buck barrel in .257 is the TJ Enterprises barrel liner (Google this company name for pricing and phone number. No internet sales)
2. Common bore and groove dimensions are .250 BORE/.257 GROOVE
3. Common O.D. dimensions of TJ barrels tend to be roughly 9/16″ (.562″+-)
4. Pure Lead or 20-1 Lead seems to be the best to date
5. Hard Cast bullets don’t appear to be as accurate as Pure Lead in TJ’s barrel liners. But don’t discount harder cast bullets. These are firearm barrels.
6. Fire Lapping or Hand Lapping both work wonders in these barrels and are pretty much necessary to keep leading down and accuracy up
7. The more these barrels are shot, the more accurate they get
8. So far, accuracy is superb at velocities from 900 to about 1130 fps. More data to come. Please test velocity for your particular guns best accuracy
9. Various Air Guns and Barrel Manufacturers could be used for this project. The list is still growing.
10. To date, both the Condor and the Haley 257’s have hit Soda cans at 446, 502 and 552 yards!

IMO: Guns that DO and DON’T make for good 257 conversions
DOES – Jack Haley air guns (particularly the ones that fill to over 3600 psi)
DOES – DAQ air guns
DOES – Daystate Air Rangers (especially the 80 FPE version)
DOES – Daystate Wolverine 303 (expensive gun)
DOES – Big Bore EXTREME air guns
DOES – Korean Big Bore air guns (Shing Sun Career, Sumatra’s, Dragon Claws andSam Yang’s. And even the EVANIX 9mm guns)
DOES – XP Big Bore air guns including the Corsair
DOES – Air Force Condors
DOES – OF COURSE ANY CUSTOM BUILT or HIGHLY TUNED AIRGUN SUITED FOR MAKING SUCH POWER

DOES NOT – CALIBER CRICKETS (lol)
DOES NOT – EDGUNS
DOES NOT – FX BOSS 30 cal (too much restrictions within the guns internals)
DOES NOT – TOO MANY TO LIST HONESTLY (small bore air guns in general are not good for this conversion due to either TUBE size volume or internals that lack the ability to be highly modified. Many SB air guns are made for consistency while making 12-50 FPE of power and not 130-200 FPE)

***DISCLAIMER*** Due to a lack of knowledge on every single gun made today and also the machinist in existence and their capabilities, the above opinions are due to available current info and even the LACK OF. The sport is growing and the amount of people that are getting into 257 cal airgunning is steadily/slightly growing. So information is CREEPING in at a snails pace. But as more info comes out, the above listed info MIGHT change.

Game taken with the .257 cal.:




CUSTOM PARTS SECTION:
All parts by ADAM VIGIL (http://talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=9980):



http://www.maddogriflestocks.com/





MD stock on my TD257

Other Guns

All Replies

Viewing 15 replies - 46 through 60 (of 363 total)

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Good Luck Sir! The shelf on the Lyman is well, nuts! I think I would try to re-engineer it rather than modding the molds. You deed the bulk in the mold block to retain the heat for proper fill out.

The shelf is one of the reason I went with the RCBS. That and Lyman kept pushing the release date back. For two years!!! There are harrow stories on the different casting forums about their customer service as well. Where RCBS will take care of you, even if the product was dropped 30 years ago. Lyman will not support a product they dropped two years ago. Kinda scary!

Yep, I know what you mean on the Dr. appointments. Will be gone all day Wed. and Thur. Grrrrr!!!

I’d rather be shooting! :8:

Knife

Knife,
You are correct. My spitzer mold shows daylight to the middle. I hadn’t cheched it out and seasoned it like I did my first two Arsenal molds. On the way home with it from the mail room, I dropped all 3 off at a neighbor to have them milled to fit the Lyman Mag 25 rail. Then too, I see I used way to much Drop Out and have had a battle with it. Holding the handles a lot tighter helps like you suggested.

I now see why Roachcreek suggested beginners start with a top dipper pot and the Lyman 257450 2 cavity mold. I even had trouble with that setup. :whistle:

I’m getting a few that I can use but I have lowered my standard. I’m not even close to the quality that Doug sent me.

I’ll keep experimenting with drop height, flow rate, lead temp, mold temp, and spreu temp until I get it better. The other two molds from Arsenal are far easier for an unknown reason. If fact, I got on paper target with the Boat Tail at 200 yards.

After I get a few dr appointments behind me, I will get back to the range. I still have some of Doug’s good bullets and a bunch of my own 71 gr Boat Tails and 257-92 gr LFN “Noble”s.

Thanks for all the suggestions. Eventually I’ll get most of them working together.

The slush point has to be temp read while coming up to heat. coming down, tells you nothing, but possibly where the insulation ends in the pot. LOL!!! It can be caused by high pressure, but it would take a lot. Such as in a true pressure pour as when placing the down spout of the pot actually into the spru-hole. Apparently the mold blocks are not fully closing. Try and find out why.

Whiskers can also be caused by a tiny bit of lead somewhere between the blocks. Sometimes hard to see, but will keep the blocks from fully closing. Hold the closed mold under strong light and see if you can see any light between the halfs. If so, they are not fully closing.

You have to adjust the valve as the pot gets lower. When almost or full, you need very little opening. When at 1/2 it will be much more. I continually adjust the flow rate with the screw all thru the pour to keep it consistent. 😉

Knife

I cleaned the molds with acetone and that fixed the size. That frankford arsenal drop out does build up.with repeated applications just like the instructions say. Oh well, I can live with taping the mold to dump the bullets.

I think Ive found the cause of whiskers from the bullet noses. This is a 25 pould max lead pot. Thats 3 pounds more than the RCBS Thats got to increase the drop pressure. There is some kind of adjustment but I have yet to screw with it.

Sad to say, at the end of this session I was getting some better but not perfect bullets at 850°

If I found the correct slush melt point at 650° then adding 150 would get my pots reading to 800°. So, it may work but it puts doubt on the calibration of the built in thermometer.

Originally i set the drop gap at 1/4″ like the manual suggest but decidef to lower the rail to 1/2 “. Casting all day at all temperatures and whiskers stayed bad. Finally giving up for the day I tried a rapid pour while sliding the mold. That didnt help so the only thing I hadnt tried was a slow easy pour. AHh, only one out of 4 with whiskers and it was a very small whisker.

Tomorrow I’ll screw with the Shut Off Rod Limit screw to reduce the flow rate. That and decreasing the dtop gap should eliminate the whiskers that are worse on my spitzer mold.
Then I probably should start reducing the pot temp.

Trying to establish my pots slush point.

Cooling my pot back down from a full fluid meld at readout of 680°F, it finally started forming a Ring Around the Surface at its readout of 650°. Is that surface ring what is being referred to as “Slush” ❓

ON THE OTHERHAND is my pot telling me it doesn’t like to be near full ❓


Attachments:

I hear what you’re say’n said the deaf man!

Here is a post by a very well, and long time caster of cast bullets on Cast Boolits.com
GearNasher. It should clear up a LOT!

“Frosting” is an effect caused by two things in combination: The presence of antimony in the mix, and a very hot mould.

The temperature of the metal going into the mould has zero to do with whether or not the boolit surfaces will have the “frosted” appearance, that is 100% a function of mould block temperature and cooling rate, or rather the SLOW cooling rate, of the alloy. The more slowly an antimonial alloy cools, the more time the antimony dendrite crystals have to form lattices, and the appearance of a textured surface becomes present.

For example, I can literally pour 800-degree wheel-weight metal into a 200-degree mould and get shiny, wrinkled boolits with rounded edges. I can also pour 650-degree wheel weight metal into a 450-degree mould and make boolits that are so frosted and undersized that they appear as rough and dull as freshly-broken cast iron, or appear as if they were sand blasted. The difference is the temperature of the MOULD, not the alloy. And, of course, the presence of some antimony in the mix. Tin/lead alloy or pure lead always casts fairly shiny, regardless of mould temperature or alloy temperature.

The general rule for most of the ternary (lead, antimony, tin) alloys that we scrounge up for making boolits is to run the pot below 750 degrees F., or really about 100-150 degrees hotter than the fully-liquid point, and to preheat the moulds somehow (dip a corner in the melt for a while, set across top of pot for a few minutes, or improvise a “mould oven” using a hot plate and metal box) so they come up to casting temperature faster or start out at casting temperature. THEN, as you cast, maintain a pace that is brisk enough to keep the mould hot enough for good fillout.

Casting good boolits is all about consistency. Constant pot temperature is important, this is what your thermostat and thermometer are for. Constant mould temperature is even more important, and that is controlled simply by adjusting the timing of the various pouring, waiting for sprue to set, cutting, opening, dumping, closing, and refilling operations. Casting boolits is like driving a car on the highway, you have to constantly make slight corrections to steering, throttle, brake, etc. and watch your mirrors, the road, anticipate hills and valleys to keep the speed consistent and in the “zone” that you want to be.

You’ll have to experiment with timing operations and pouring stream adjustment, technique, sprue puddle size, etc. while watching for frosting, rounded edges, filled bases, air bubbles/voids in the bases, wrinkles, shiny spots, frosted bands/shiny noses, sprue flashover time to give yourself clues about what is working and not working with a particular mould, alloy, and atmospheric condition.

Here’s a quick and dirty method that works every time. Turn on the pot and start melting your alloy. Stir it with a spoon as soon as it starts to get mushy and watch the thermometer. Once the metal thins out like thin porridge, keep a close eye on temperature, it should remain constant as the phase changes. Once the last bits of grainy metal go away, the temperature should start to rise again (the metal is past the phase platau). Record the phase plateau temperature and add, say, 150F to it. Allow the alloy to reach this temperature and adjust the pot to maintain it. Spoon in a layer of pine sawdust on top of the melt and stir the alloy gently to flux and reduce oxides. Skim if you want, or not. Dip a corner of your mould down int he metal and hold it there until the alloy no longer sticks to the blocks when you withdraw it, this could take anywhere from 30 seconds to two minutes. Dip the tip of the sprue plate in the alloy too, for about ten seconds, then close the mould and start casting. The mould should suck the pot temperature down 50 or so degrees depending on the size of the mould. Fill, cut, and dump the first few castings quickly and glance at the boolits. If shiny and wrinkled, keep casting culls as fast as you can until they start to fill out and get an even, satin frost all over. From this point on, you can play with the timing and sprue puddle size to control mould block and sprue plate temperature to keep the mould temperature and boolit quality even from nose to tip.

This works with any alloy, any pot, any pouring technique, and any mould (except non-antimony alloys won’t frost, you just look for sharp edges and good fillout with those) and any weather. Don’t forget to glance at the pot temperature once in a while and make sure it stays 100-150 above the fully-liquid point that you recorded first thing. It’s all up to mould temperature and technique after that, and trust me, quit dinking around with pot temperature, it is not going to do you any good.

One more thing, to emphasize what MT Gianni wrote, IF your thermometer is off even 200 degrees, if you do as I described above, it won’t matter because you only want to obtain an alloy temperature that is a certain amount above fully liquidus with ANY alloy, and your thermometer is good enough to give you that valuable reference point even if it is not giving you an exactly accurate temperature reading.

G

I did a hundred or so today but will dump them in for remelt. 50% have wiskers on the nose and they are all to small. Ive been using the Frankford Arsenal Drop Out so Ive probably got an excess build up now.
I switched to another mold and it cast much better.

Lets see, what did the kids do with my Acetone that F. Arsenal recommends for cleaning off the buildup ❓ Its getting hard to find some chemicals around town because the idiot kids like to kill their brains getting high.

Having a greater distance between the mold and spout, with give the lead more force, and better fill out. I have mine at over an inch. Will measure it, as I just kept lowering the shelf until I got good consistent fill out.

Another trick is pressure casting. Put the spout directly, and tightly into the spru hole. Pour, and let the mold drop from the spout after just a split second while stopping the flow. This will allow a puddle, which will otherwise not form in pressure casting.
You will have to hold the mold handles tightly together for this, as the added pressure wants to escape the cavity, and causes whiskers on the side of the bullet. This can cause lead to stick onto the walls of the mold outside of the cavities. Grrrrr!!!

Every mold is different and you have to learn what a given mold is trying to tell you. The answer is NEVER high lead temp however. The only time you can use HI Temp,is pure lead. And still not necessary.

So try to center the lead stream into the hole in the spru plate. Less cavitation + faster cavity fill out, and more centered, means more pressure.

I try to never let my pot go below .25% left in the pot. Usually, I refill it at apx 1/3 empty. empty. But at times, things are going so well, and fast I forget to look! :suprisedn:

Reminder to self. Don’t Do That!!! :angrymob:

On a side note, last casting session, everything went fantastic! 800 bullets from the new modded NOE Spire Point mold, and had exactly “3” bullets that were bad. All three had slightly rounded bases. Still perfectly shootable. No wrinkles, no bubbles, no inclusions, all seemingly perfect. It is a very good day when things go this well. A very good day indeed! Time including pot heating, and one refilling was 1hr and 45 minutes. This included the second fill and melt before turning the pot off. I used arsenal bullet mold release agent, and the bullets came out of the mold like a dream! Many people dislike the release agent. It has done wonders for me. 😉

Knife

NOW YOU TELL ME :sadn:
I spent another HOT day lowering the mold temp and then raising the lead temp to not get more than 1/2 dozen keepers. 😳
Back to square one………..

How about some advice on using a bottom pour lead pot.
I’ve got 4 cavity brass molds and have the tray lined up for center at the suggested 1/4″ gap from the spout.
Questions:
1) Should I get a stool to park on so I can see better to line up the spru hole with the spout or just slowly pull the mould out as I hold the valve open ❓
2) How full do you keep the pot ❓ My Lyman Mag 25 holds 25 pounds but the manual suggests the temp will vary more in a low or near full pot.
3) Should I just flux it good one time then continue to use it until it is down to half or quarter full ❓

The NOE 65gr .257 mould has moved to group buy status if anyone would like to give it a go.
http://noebulletmolds.com/smf/index.php/topic,1632.0.html

Also, on the subject of mould temp, I had a bit of trouble with a new 4 cav Alum mould and wrinkles, and after reading Knifemakers suggestions and a bit of research on castboolits, I heated the mould much more than I was with the 2 cav brass. The end result was a 75% success rate on the follow up casting session, up from <10% on first go. My Lead temp hovered between 690 – 720f most of the session. Thanks for the tips.

Frosting is caused by a combination of heat and a bit of antimony in the lead. Using a mold release agent also give the frosted appearance.

Now for the schocker. There “IS” nothing wrong with frosted bullets. In fact, many molds just don’t cast that cleanly until this plateau has been reached.

Many caster will NOT keep bullets from their early pour that are not frosted, as frosted bullets, not taken to an extreme, are the crispest of all bullets. Very uniform, and for a side benefit, they hold lube better. 😉 Particularly if you want to try a powder coat on them in the future. Something casters are using a lot now days.

If your bullets are showing light frosting, your temp is just about perfect! Don’t go very much below the temp that first shows signs of frosting.

Knife

Thanks Knife,

I’ll try to synchronize the Lyman thermometer with the Lyman digital Mag 25 pot.

On another forum I read that bullet frosting is caused by the mold being to hot.
That makes sense because I didn’t have that problem before I cranked up my hot plate temp 😳

Today should be slightly cooler so maybe I won’t have sweat running down across my glasses :geekn:

A Lyman temp thermometer, can be be adjusted by holding the shaft with a leather wrapping, in a set of pliers, and turning the dial.

The Temp can be raised on a Lyman pot, well, some of them, by pulling the knob off the temp setting fixture, and you will find a small screw set deep inside the stem. Use a small screwdriver to turn the screw. can’t’ remember whether it is clockwise or anticlockwise for raising the temp. You can google it though.

I found this on Cast Boolits.com. (Yes, this is how they spell it there) LOL!!!

Knife,

No. The last times I used it, first I couldn’t get it over 800, next time not over 755, so I thought it was the old Lee lead pot element.
Checking it in the new Lyman digital pot set and steady at 71°, it wouldn’t go over 650°.

How can it be adjusted ❓
There is Not a nut to loosen like an oven thermometer has ❓

I’ve spent 2 days now trying to get good bullets set at 710° +/- 10°. Terrible heat and humidity here in ohio. The 85 gr Spitzers were frosted with wishers on the tips. I lowered temt to 690° and got rid of the frosting but now have slight wrinkles along with wiskers. And the Spitzers are to small and don’t size well. I’m hoping that improves when I get the looks and fill correct.

Spoiled by the old top dipper I started the pot and left it to heat and stabilize while I had breakfast. VERY BAD THINGS HAPPENED ❗
I found 3.6 oz lead puddle on the base plate while the lead was still solid in the top of the pot. It had an air pocket in the bottom. Max 850°setting did mot help. I had to mine the lead from the top down until I reached the air pocket. By adding lead chips and shavings gradually, it eventually built up enough molten lead to reach the lead I couldn’t remove because of the pour valve mechanism.
So, back to pouring bullets and throwing them back in to remelt.
The good thing, I guess, is I didn’t loose or use up any lead in 2 days.

Because of the lead frosting at 710 +/- 10° I’m wondering if the Lyman digital is set accurately.

So how can I adjust the old thermometer ❓

Lurker, are you aware that you can adjust and calibrate your Lyman temp gauge?

Knife

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