A 257 Cast Bullet Reference Guide

Hello Gents and Gals,

PURPOSE:
This page is a page that is dedicated to the .257 caliber Air Gun (s). Call it a Dedication Page, or call it a Reference Page or call it a Info Page, it’s all of the above. This page will stay updated with “CURRENT” info and will contain info on the guns that are available in 257. And that’s the point of the page, to share information regarding the 257 caliber Air gun and to become a quick reference page for anything that has anything to do with the .257″. This will be a page that can be found quickly and will contain all “CURRENT” info on the 257. That means MORE work for me and LESS work for you.

HISTORY:
The 257 caliber powder burner cartridge has been around since about the 1920’s. But in air guns, a 257 caliber powder burner barrel liner from TJ Enterprises has only been recently installed on a current air gun. As far as we know, Jack Haley and John Bowman are the 1st creators of such said air gun/caliber combos. And this gun is the Jack Haley .257 Scandalous which won L.A.S.S.O. in 2012 on its maiden voyage in the hands of John Bowman. L.A.S.S.O. is short for “Longrange Airgun Silhouette Shooters Organization” and it is simply and event for Air Guns only and steel targets are set up out to 300 yards. The 257 Scandalous quickly gained notoriety for what it was capable of. And that is……Long Range Accuracy and power. John Bowman would also often dispatch coyotes at well over 300 yards. John Bowman has shot 10’s of thousand’s of cast bullets in the 257 Air Gun and has openly shared all that he has learned. We owe much of what we know about the 257 today to Jack and John. The Haley Scandalous 257 is a very powerful, accurate and traditional Air Gun. Web links and pictures below.

CURRENT:
Doug Noble is an avid air gunner and an excellent machinist. Today, Doug is transforming the Airforce line of guns into 257 caliber beast. Doug has a history of machining since his early High School days and his current work on the Air Force line of guns is exceptional. His many post and pictures can be viewed right here on this very forum. Air force Air Guns have been around since 1994 and currently manufacture about 6 types of air guns. Air Force air guns are not very traditional looking and might remind you of an AR-15 type gun. No traditional wood and steel and bolt handle on these…lol! The Air force gun massaged over by Doug is one powerful and accurate “NON TRADITIONAL” rig. Web links and pictures below.
Also, .257 Airforce airguns can be bought from Randy at RandL Airguns (http://www.rlairgunsupply.com/).

CALIBER:
The .257 by nature is a small game to medium game caliber. In powder burner format such as the 257 Roberts or Weatherby…etc…etc…etc, it can take Deer/Antelope sized game at some decent hunting distances depending on bullet construction/manufacturer. But in an air gun, we stick mostly to Coyote sized game at the biggest. Its one of the best small/medium game calibers IMHO. Bullets will range from about 60+ grs up to roughly 120 grs. Nominal O.D. of bullets will depend largely on groove diameter of ones barrel on his/her gun. But sizes will run between .257-.258″ as somewhat of a norm. But again, sizes can be up to about .260″+. The B.C. or Ballistic Coefficient of many available bullets will range from .129+- up to roughly over .300 BC. And in comparison to the typical .251 caliber Diablo Pellet such as JSB, Bejamin or Beeman (H&N), which has a BC of about .030+-, the lightest .257 bullet will have roughly 4x’s more BC. So as you can see, the 257 in an air gun pushing 900-1130 fps can do some amazing distance shooting and retain a lot of energy. I MEAN……..FOR AN AIRGUN AND ALL………………….LOL!

PICTURES:
Here are various pictures of some current 257 caliber air guns

John Bowman and his 257 Haley Scandalous. Winner at L.A.S.S.O. 2012

Cedric aka Tofazfou shooting his Doug Noble TalonDor 257 Cal.

Doug shooting his custom/self built Condor 257

Joe Grits 257 Condor by Doug

RJ Porter’s Haley 257 Scandalous

RoachCreek’s Haley 257 Scandalous

.257 BULLET MOLDS (manufacturers):
RCBS MOLDS – http://www.rcbs.com/
LYMAN (IDEAL) MOLDS – http://www.lymanproducts.com/lyman/home/
NOE MOLDS – http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/index.php?osCsid=j7u9gieqlre78413k41t63lb31
HOCH MOLDS- http://hochmoulds.com/index-1.htm
LBT MOLDS (custom molds available) – http://lbtmoulds.com/index.shtml
ARSENAL MOLDS – http://arsenalmolds.com/

BULLET CASTING EQUIPMENT:
BCE can be bought from a multitude of websites and or stores. I refuse to list any in particular cause individual results might vary. But places like MIDWAY USA is a decent place to start if you want to get into casting. Bullet casting is NOT for everyone and its time consuming. At the same time, like reloading, it’s very rewarding. It also does not take a lot of equipment to get started. Here is a list of what’s needed to start casting for the 257 (or ANY caliber):
1. Safety Goggles or Glasses or even a Face Shield
2. Long sleeve Denim shirt
3. Brushed Leather Gloves
4. Long pants in either Denim or another NON FLAMMABLE material
5. 257 Bullet Mold
6. Plenty of lead
7. LYMAN, LEE or RCBS melting pot (20 lbs is a good). You can use a propane burner with some type of cast iron pot also. But that’s up to you. Do your homework.
8. Dipper/Ladle
9. Either a reloading press or a LEE hand press that will accept a standard 7/8×14 TPI sizer die
10. Bullet Lube and some studying/advise and some Common sense

Many of these molds can be found at a multitude of websites. Here is one such example: http://www.justbulletmolds.com/. Since there is always more than one website for any particular product, I will leave the shopping and goggling up to the buyer/reader who wants to shop for the lowest price on product and shipping. The web links posted up above for molds is just a guideline and not the single BEST website for said product.

PICTURES OF VARIOUS MOLDS IN .257

Doug’s 77 gr FP LBT mold

Roachcreek’s 100 gr NOE FP Mold

Tofazfou’s 74 gr FP LYMAN 257420 Mold with custom HP Pin by ERIC at HP MOLD SERVICES

Tofazfou’s 80 gr NOE FP Mold

Lyman 257 Mold

Arsenal 257420 Mold

VARIOUS .257 BULLETS:

LYMAN 257420 bullets cast by Tofazfou. FP and HP

IDEAL 100 gr HP Spitzer cast by RJ Porter

HOCH 109 gr FP’s in 20-1 lead/tin cast by Roachcreek

Various bullets cast by Tofazfou, RJ Porter and Hunters Supply

NOE 100 gr FP’s in 20-1 lead/tin cast by Roachcreek

NOE 78.3 gr HP vs 83.5 gr FP

Lyman 257420 vs NOE 80 gr

VARIOUS CAST BULLET BC #’s:
LYMAN 67 gr LFN GC 257420 = .129
LYMAN 89 gr LRN LOV GC 257464 = .204
LYMAN 89 gr LFN GC 257312 = .208
LYMAN 98 gr LSP GC 257418 = .221
LYMAN 113 gr LRN GC 257325 = .235
RCBS 117gr SP GC 257-120-SP = .271

Here is a PROCEDURE on “FIRE LAPPING” your airguns barrel submitted by Roach Creek:

Fire lapping a barrel.

I have fire lapped several rifles in my shooting career, most of them center fires that used jacketed bullets and I did it for improved accuracy, the 257 bore air guns I did for a different reason.

I fire lapped my two TJ Barrels for my Haley because I wanted them to be smoother inside to allow more shots between cleaning and for easier cleaning once fouled. Before fire lapping I was getting around 20 shots before I had considerable streaking and accuracy degradation, now it around 45 shots.

When I cleaned I used fine bronze wool on a 25 caliber brush and then followed it up with several doubled patches on a jag, then followed by #10 weight silicone oil to prep the barrel for the first shot lubed with #10 silicone oil. After fire lapping all but the most stubborn transfer deposits are removed with double patches.

The 1-14 barrel, I fire lapped with a Wheeler engineering kit from Midway, I had used their kits before and they had worked, so I was comfortable sending abrasive coated bullets down my bore, yes that does sound drastic, which is why I wanted to go with a proven, to me kit.

I prefer fire lapping to hand lapping due to the fact I ruined a Mini 14 barrel in my misspent youth and have never revisited hand lapping since.

The kit comes with three grits in little jars, 220. 320 and 600. Also included are two 1 inch by 2 inch steel plates and very clear instructions.

On my 1-14 barrel I followed the instructions on the kit, but used 15 shots per grit instead of the recommended 20 , 220. 320 and 600 and I cleaned thoroughly each 5 shots and thoroughly between grits. In the end I had a very smooth bore that resists fouling and cleans easier once it needs cleaning.

Then I fire lapped my 1-10 twist barrel and things were different.

First of all I did not use the 220 grit and I checked between shots because I was not using lube on the bullets as before so I was interested to see if they were fouling without lube because I had not checked that before on the 1-14.

And indeed they were, if I fired one shot, I could not notice fouling, on the 2nd shot I did notice fouling and on the 3rd shot I had major streaks. As a result I fired 20 shots of 320, cleaning thoroughly between shots, which is one hell of a lot of work, and then after those 20 shots I switched to 600 grit and I fired 25 shots, cleaning each time between shots.

To me the cleaning between shots was a no brainer. If I have streaking, I am polishing the lead deposited in the bore, not the bore.

When I shot the rifle after cleaning I also noticed again something different, the accuracy with100 grain NOE bullets had noticeably improved, and of course the shot count between cleaning had also.

I had miked my groove diameter prior to fire lapping and could not notice a difference in pre and prior lapping, but I was also using my “Harbor Freight caliper for the blind” so it was hard to tell if anything had changed in dimensions. Doug slugged the barrel when I had it set back for recutting the lead, it slugged out within the norms of other TJ barrels, just one heck of a lot smoother.

I did this on the 1-10 after I had cut the lead for 100 grain NOE bullets, I did not notice a increase in the lead dimensions or that they chamber any easier, they are still in that “putting a cork in a wine bottle category”.

I fully recommend the Wheeler engineering fire lap kit, but I would recommend cleaning every shot and not using the 220 grit.

Regards,

Roachcreek

VARIOUS RECOMMENDATIONS:

Cast bullet supplier that I recommend:
RJ PORTER – http://www.accuratebigboreairgunammo.webs.com/

Jack Haley Airguns (please read his webpage): ******MR HALEY PASSED AND THE WEBSITE NO LONGER EXIST – I CHOOSE TO KEEP IT UP******
http://www.southernairgunconversion.com/

CUSTOM 257 Air Force Condors: ******DOUG NO LONGER MAKES CUSTOM CONDORS******
Doug @ dyotat100@aol.com

For Hollow Pointing any bullet mold contact Eric at:
http://www.hollowpointmold.com/

.257 Barrels by TJ Enterprises

101 “QUICK TIPS/FACTS” about the 257

1. Best bang for your buck barrel in .257 is the TJ Enterprises barrel liner (Google this company name for pricing and phone number. No internet sales)
2. Common bore and groove dimensions are .250 BORE/.257 GROOVE
3. Common O.D. dimensions of TJ barrels tend to be roughly 9/16″ (.562″+-)
4. Pure Lead or 20-1 Lead seems to be the best to date
5. Hard Cast bullets don’t appear to be as accurate as Pure Lead in TJ’s barrel liners. But don’t discount harder cast bullets. These are firearm barrels.
6. Fire Lapping or Hand Lapping both work wonders in these barrels and are pretty much necessary to keep leading down and accuracy up
7. The more these barrels are shot, the more accurate they get
8. So far, accuracy is superb at velocities from 900 to about 1130 fps. More data to come. Please test velocity for your particular guns best accuracy
9. Various Air Guns and Barrel Manufacturers could be used for this project. The list is still growing.
10. To date, both the Condor and the Haley 257’s have hit Soda cans at 446, 502 and 552 yards!

IMO: Guns that DO and DON’T make for good 257 conversions
DOES – Jack Haley air guns (particularly the ones that fill to over 3600 psi)
DOES – DAQ air guns
DOES – Daystate Air Rangers (especially the 80 FPE version)
DOES – Daystate Wolverine 303 (expensive gun)
DOES – Big Bore EXTREME air guns
DOES – Korean Big Bore air guns (Shing Sun Career, Sumatra’s, Dragon Claws andSam Yang’s. And even the EVANIX 9mm guns)
DOES – XP Big Bore air guns including the Corsair
DOES – Air Force Condors
DOES – OF COURSE ANY CUSTOM BUILT or HIGHLY TUNED AIRGUN SUITED FOR MAKING SUCH POWER

DOES NOT – CALIBER CRICKETS (lol)
DOES NOT – EDGUNS
DOES NOT – FX BOSS 30 cal (too much restrictions within the guns internals)
DOES NOT – TOO MANY TO LIST HONESTLY (small bore air guns in general are not good for this conversion due to either TUBE size volume or internals that lack the ability to be highly modified. Many SB air guns are made for consistency while making 12-50 FPE of power and not 130-200 FPE)

***DISCLAIMER*** Due to a lack of knowledge on every single gun made today and also the machinist in existence and their capabilities, the above opinions are due to available current info and even the LACK OF. The sport is growing and the amount of people that are getting into 257 cal airgunning is steadily/slightly growing. So information is CREEPING in at a snails pace. But as more info comes out, the above listed info MIGHT change.

Game taken with the .257 cal.:

CUSTOM PARTS SECTION:
All parts by ADAM VIGIL (http://talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=9980):

http://www.maddogriflestocks.com/

MD stock on my TD257

knifemaker

Participant

July 24, 2016 at 9:25 pm

Guys, I for whatever reason, love shooting and casting. There are those hobbyist that learn a few basics and if any of them work for whatever reason, will not, or refuse to learn any further.

Never quite understood this. It is in my nature to learn everything I can possibly can if for no other reason than I enjoy it so much. I find the quest of knowledge as rewarding as the working with it itself.

If anyone here, or anywhere else, has solid info on techniques, or the science behind it, I’m all ears.

Never could understand just why a person would refuse info. good or bad, to be dissected, for it’s worth, or lack of same.

The worst words in the human language, that fights the path to knowledge, is the words, “Because we’ve always done it this way”. Second, is “just because that’s’ the way someone said is the way to do it”. With never questioning exactly why, and the consequences of blindly following any advice.

Study, research, test! Learn the why’s and How’s of your work. It always pays off in the end. Unless you delete it all if you don’t’ like the answers, Like Hillary! :rofl:

Knife

lurker-1

July 22, 2016 at 2:29 am

I trusted my Lyman Thermometer over my Lee Magnum melting pot because I took proper care of it, inserting it a full 2″, not leaving it in longer than necessary, and cleaning it off when taken out. Damn thing, like the whores I married it started lying to me. 😳

Anyway, I wanted to upgrade to a bottom pour pot. I received my new Lyman Mag 25 dual digital readout melter today. It does everything I hoped for and expected EXCEPT it doesn’t agree with my old Lyman Thermometer. I smell another liar in my life 😳

Yep, with the new pot set to 710°F and stabilized cycling from 705 to 710°, I inserted the old thermoneter in several places and it was at a consistent 650°F.

I still have to modify the mold tray for most of my molds but my Lyman 257420 2 cavity works great. I only ran a few pours but the tail end of the bullets were near perfect already. I’ll keep the old Lee Magnum as a SHTF spare but will need to buy a thermometer for it that diesn’t lie to me.

Apparently I eliminated the 2% Tin from my lead some time ago. After I get used to the new pot, I may add a nugget or two of Tin.

A word of advice from the newly educated, ‘If you are having trouble getting good bullets, the first thing to do is buy a new thermometer even if the old one looks like new.’ Get your old pot working then go ahead and buy the upgraded pot you’ve been wanting.

Thanks everybody, for all the good tips while helping me with my bullet casting problem. I’ve learned many techniques that I couldn’t have imagined.

Thank You,
Edmund

rifle50

July 21, 2016 at 5:41 am

quote knifemaker:

Carl, no one said it is boiling. I said water boils at 212 at sea level.
tin segregates from the melt at 725-750F. And it starts to oxidize. If nothing is done to flux it back into the melt, is is essentially not being used for its intended purpose. Which is to cause a wetting action, which will cause the molten lead to fully wet the mold.

In other words, the lead will be able to much better fill all cavities and features of the mold. Which will give a much higher degree of precision on the cast.

Lead wants to act like water on a well waxed surface. (But of course, in a much lesser way). Tin causes it to wet the surface and spread over the surface. Which is how it gives such an improvement in the quality of fill out.

Doug is saying that he is getting no segregation and no buildup of sludge or whatever on the surface. Tin doesn’t build sludge. Oxidized lead and imprecations in the melt do as the hot leads surface contacts oxygen. Not getting a sludge, or dross on top of the melt is impossible,much less at the temps Doug is casting at, unless he is casting in a vacuum oven.

Tin separated from the melt, will give a slightly off appearance to the surface of the melt. Some say it looks slightly spider webbed. It will no longer have the liquid mercury look to the surface of the melt. This is due to the appearance of the tin combined to the dross being formed in the high heat, and reaction of oxygen.

We get very similar results when melting Steel. Different elements react differently to the oxygen in the atmosphere. And Why some melts are performed in an atmospheric controlled oven. Either under vacuum, or pressure flooded with an inert gas, such as Argon.

Likewise, I have to be very careful when heat treating steels. Even though the steel never reaches a liquidus state, segregation still occurs. It must be protected, either by a wrap of titanium foil, vacuum negative atmosphere, or flooded with an inert gas.
Otherwise, the parts come out of the oven looking like they were either hit with the cutting flame of an Oxy. torch, or sitting on the bottom of the ocean for years. Totally ruined. And this starts at 1425F, and is No Where the melting point of Steel! Lead mixes are also damaged with too high of a heat. It only takes 5 minutes to irreparably damage a precision part. And that is exactly what our bullets are. Precision parts. No?

I don’t’ remember at the moment, the point that lead starts to give off toxic vapors. I do remember last time I checked, that Doug was within 50 deg. F. of this danger zone.
Scary stuff! You want to be hundreds of deg. below this threshold. And Never, Never cross it!

and you sure as hell don’t’ want to risk your, or someone else’s health advising others to do it. Particularly as there is no need whatsoever to do so.

But if reason is totally ignored, for the love of Pete, at least wear a properly selected and approved vapor mask.

Mike, Thanks for the detailed explanation……….Carl

July 20, 2016 at 1:42 pm

I SEE SAID THE BLIND MAN ❗ Me being the proverbial blind man that ventures into potentially dangerous technologies with equipment made readily available to anyone. But, provided without the benefit of extensive education as to potential hazards.

Doug,
We need you for your abilities to produce fine custom air rifles. The bullet samples you produce are excellent but though you do not charge for them, the most important hidden cost may be to your health and wellbeing.

We live in an extremely complex and advanced world that promotes innovation while understanding that more and greater knowledge evolves from an occasional error.
Even a deliberate national security error only means you are better experienced than anyone else. Just ask hillairy.

All,
Doug is an innovative machinist that does custom work at a low price. And he shares from his heart what additional knowledge he can. I and many others greatly appreciate the quality air rifles he produces.
Doug has even helped me with upgrading a .25 mold at his own expense. And provided a variety of bullets, all of excellent shape, for me to try out. The true cost of the bullets he has made may not reflect the dangers he exposes himself to in order to help others.

True MEN like Doug (Dyotat100) and Mike (knifemaker) are honest caring people that share the best that they have. GOD BLESS THEM BOTH ❗

July 20, 2016 at 7:14 am

July 20, 2016 at 5:55 am

That’s like telling me that water doesn’t boil at 212f at sea level, and that there is no steam when boiling the water. Sorry Doug, but what your are saying is physically impossible! You forget that I am a trained metallurgist. Trust me. At your temp, you ARE loosing All of you tin. Period! Doesn’t’ matter if your eyes are calibrated to see it or not.

You simply do not have the experience to rewrite a couple hundred years worth of bullet casting by thousands of casters. You’re simply wrong, and don’t know enough about the metallurgy side of it, to know your wrong.

You’re a fine machinist, and you have my utmost respect in your field of endeavor. But you have a LOT to learn about casting metals.

But that’s’ not the worst of it. Your giving advice, on something that you, yourself know very little about. Not only is this misleading to new casters, but is dangerous as well. You are completely ignoring safety protocols, and suggesting others do so as well! You need to back up, and so a little research. Both for yourself, as well as for the well being of members here! PLEASE!!!
Just because something seems emotionally right in your judgement, doesn’t make it so Doug.
If there is anything I have learned in metalworking, it is Study your Craft. The leaning Never Stops. So far, you refuse to even entertain learning anything about casting. I’m very confused over this. There is a lot more to it than simply heating and pouring. A LOT More.
You cannot teach, what you refuse to learn.

Mike, I am confused now………..Tin melts at 449* but the BOILING POINT is 4716* So if it is just above melting point and NOT BOILING, how is the tin evaporating? I couldn’t find any info on TEMPERATURE when evaporates. Below it gives a VAPORIZATION FIGURE, but I can’t interpret it….You say “Trust ME, you are losing all your tin”….At what temperature does this occur????. Thanks………Carl

Phase solid
Melting point 505.08 K (231.93 °C, 449.47 °F)
Boiling point 2875 K (2602 °C, 4716 °F)
Density near r.t. white, β: 7.265 g/cm3
gray, α: 5.769 g/cm3
when liquid, at m.p. 6.99 g/cm3
Heat of fusion white, β: 7.03 kJ/mol
Heat of vaporization white, β: 296.1 kJ/mol

July 20, 2016 at 5:04 am

July 19, 2016 at 7:25 pm

OK,
I cast a while starting at 755°F and when I had a rhythm going I quickly checked the lead temp. and it had dropped to 700° :sadn:
I turned the Dial to Full #9 1/2 and after 1/2 hour it topped out at only 760°.
My Lee Magnum pot is rated at 700 Watts and is either needing the element replaced or just is not powerful enough to keep up with the 4 cavity molds I moved up to.

So, RCBS is rated at 800 Watts and around $315 with current $75 rebate.
Lyman Mag 25 is rated at 850 Watts for $260.
Since I’m having the problem of temp. drop and the Lyman has dual digital setting temp and separate lead temp, 25 pound capacity that should help maintain temp, I ordered it. I inderstand I may have to add a spacer for my molds but that’s no big deal. And $55 cheeper put frosting on my cake.

dyotat100

July 19, 2016 at 6:00 pm

I use 1% tin.

I open the plate as soon as the lead get hard.

I don’t cook my tin off. I have no discolor in my pot and nothing builds up

July 19, 2016 at 4:28 pm

1st, let me ask another dumb question about BULLET SHAPE. My Arsenal 71gr. Boat Tail mold is dropping an average 71.5 gr. and they look good (to me :roll:). They are only slightly rounded on the tail end (I’m still working on getting up to temperature) BUT since the Boat Tail exits the muzzle from its 3rd band, does it matter so much if the tapered rear end is slightly rounded ❓

2nd, I am analyzing my 700 Watt Lee Magnum top dipper lead pot and my Lyman Thermometer being somewhat confused as to am I loosing my 2% Tin from the mix ?
Knife, by slush do you mean the solidifying at the surface around the edges as the pot cools ❓
If that is it, I get it at about 600°F on my Lyman thermometer and it remelts from the edge at about 605°. Adding 150° to that, puts me about 25° hotter than the 725 I was trying to stay below to keep from separation of my 2% Tin mix BUT, I do get more consistent fill at 750° and above.
Dipping the end of the spru plate for 30 seconds did help get a flatter tail of the bullet so I also raised my hot plate temp. a little to read out at 380° on the center side of the mold using a laser thermometer that may not be anywhere near accurate at that temp. but did indicate I raised the temp. by 25° or so.

Dyotat100, I think you said you use pure lead most of the time. The bullets you cast are excelkent in shape including a very square tail end. Unlil I buy an 850 Watt or higher pot I won’t be able to get near 900° as you suggested.

3rd, How long do you guys wait before striking the spru plate open ❓
I’ve tried waiting as loong as 30 seconds after the lea on top dulls BUT I get a cresent shape shinny area to one side. Dyotat100’s all look uniform and the same color.

4th don’t neglect the family while answering al my dumb questions.

Thank you all ❗
Lurker#1 aka (Lunkhead #1)

July 19, 2016 at 7:35 am

Before you go to the trouble of burning all your tin out with high heat, HEAT the mold more. Good fill out comes from a good hot mold. Not hot lead!

Hell, I can get perfect fallout from 650 If need be. The lead temp isn’t the problem. You need no more than a max of 150 deg. over liquidus. Watch for the lead to turn from a solid to a slush. This is liquidus. Doesn’t’ matter what your them guage says. Most are off anyway. Just add 150 deg to this, whatever it shows on your thermometer.

If you are having to run overly hot lead to get a good fill out, your mold is trying to tell you something. Listen!!! 😉

July 18, 2016 at 2:52 am

I have the rcbs pot and it only goes to 850 degrees unless you take it apart and remove the stop on the dial. That requires drilling out all the riots though.

The cheap Lee bottom pour should go past 850 degrees. I have a 220 volt one and it goes way to hot.

July 18, 2016 at 2:46 am

Dyotat100,

I’ll try again but I don’t think my pot will get up to even 850.
Ive got 2 or more of most things so maybe iy’s time to buy a better pot. I would like to try a bottom pour. What kind will do over 900° ❓

July 18, 2016 at 12:56 am

Small bullets need more heat. Turn it up. You will be fine. You see the bullets I gave you. They were cast a lot hotter then you are casting

July 18, 2016 at 12:18 am

Knife,

That does help ❗
I’m trying to keep beliw 725°F to maintain my 2% tin mix but I seem to get no wrinkles above 750°

There myst be something in the timing of each step that I’m not getting prefect. i still get like a cresent moon shinny area as if the lead is not solid enough. Maybe you can tell from this picture..

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