Q:

A 257 Cast Bullet Reference Guide

Hello Gents and Gals,

PURPOSE:
This page is a page that is dedicated to the .257 caliber Air Gun (s). Call it a Dedication Page, or call it a Reference Page or call it a Info Page, it’s all of the above. This page will stay updated with “CURRENT” info and will contain info on the guns that are available in 257. And that’s the point of the page, to share information regarding the 257 caliber Air gun and to become a quick reference page for anything that has anything to do with the .257″. This will be a page that can be found quickly and will contain all “CURRENT” info on the 257. That means MORE work for me and LESS work for you.

HISTORY:
The 257 caliber powder burner cartridge has been around since about the 1920’s. But in air guns, a 257 caliber powder burner barrel liner from TJ Enterprises has only been recently installed on a current air gun. As far as we know, Jack Haley and John Bowman are the 1st creators of such said air gun/caliber combos. And this gun is the Jack Haley .257 Scandalous which won L.A.S.S.O. in 2012 on its maiden voyage in the hands of John Bowman. L.A.S.S.O. is short for “Longrange Airgun Silhouette Shooters Organization” and it is simply and event for Air Guns only and steel targets are set up out to 300 yards. The 257 Scandalous quickly gained notoriety for what it was capable of. And that is……Long Range Accuracy and power. John Bowman would also often dispatch coyotes at well over 300 yards. John Bowman has shot 10’s of thousand’s of cast bullets in the 257 Air Gun and has openly shared all that he has learned. We owe much of what we know about the 257 today to Jack and John. The Haley Scandalous 257 is a very powerful, accurate and traditional Air Gun. Web links and pictures below.

CURRENT:
Doug Noble is an avid air gunner and an excellent machinist. Today, Doug is transforming the Airforce line of guns into 257 caliber beast. Doug has a history of machining since his early High School days and his current work on the Air Force line of guns is exceptional. His many post and pictures can be viewed right here on this very forum. Air force Air Guns have been around since 1994 and currently manufacture about 6 types of air guns. Air Force air guns are not very traditional looking and might remind you of an AR-15 type gun. No traditional wood and steel and bolt handle on these…lol! The Air force gun massaged over by Doug is one powerful and accurate “NON TRADITIONAL” rig. Web links and pictures below.
Also, .257 Airforce airguns can be bought from Randy at RandL Airguns (http://www.rlairgunsupply.com/).

CALIBER:
The .257 by nature is a small game to medium game caliber. In powder burner format such as the 257 Roberts or Weatherby…etc…etc…etc, it can take Deer/Antelope sized game at some decent hunting distances depending on bullet construction/manufacturer. But in an air gun, we stick mostly to Coyote sized game at the biggest. Its one of the best small/medium game calibers IMHO. Bullets will range from about 60+ grs up to roughly 120 grs. Nominal O.D. of bullets will depend largely on groove diameter of ones barrel on his/her gun. But sizes will run between .257-.258″ as somewhat of a norm. But again, sizes can be up to about .260″+. The B.C. or Ballistic Coefficient of many available bullets will range from .129+- up to roughly over .300 BC. And in comparison to the typical .251 caliber Diablo Pellet such as JSB, Bejamin or Beeman (H&N), which has a BC of about .030+-, the lightest .257 bullet will have roughly 4x’s more BC. So as you can see, the 257 in an air gun pushing 900-1130 fps can do some amazing distance shooting and retain a lot of energy. I MEAN……..FOR AN AIRGUN AND ALL………………….LOL!

PICTURES:
Here are various pictures of some current 257 caliber air guns


John Bowman and his 257 Haley Scandalous. Winner at L.A.S.S.O. 2012



Cedric aka Tofazfou shooting his Doug Noble TalonDor 257 Cal.


Doug shooting his custom/self built Condor 257


Joe Grits 257 Condor by Doug


RJ Porter’s Haley 257 Scandalous



RoachCreek’s Haley 257 Scandalous

.257 BULLET MOLDS (manufacturers):
RCBS MOLDS – http://www.rcbs.com/
LYMAN (IDEAL) MOLDS – http://www.lymanproducts.com/lyman/home/
NOE MOLDS – http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/index.php?osCsid=j7u9gieqlre78413k41t63lb31
HOCH MOLDS- http://hochmoulds.com/index-1.htm
LBT MOLDS (custom molds available) – http://lbtmoulds.com/index.shtml
ARSENAL MOLDS – http://arsenalmolds.com/

BULLET CASTING EQUIPMENT:
BCE can be bought from a multitude of websites and or stores. I refuse to list any in particular cause individual results might vary. But places like MIDWAY USA is a decent place to start if you want to get into casting. Bullet casting is NOT for everyone and its time consuming. At the same time, like reloading, it’s very rewarding. It also does not take a lot of equipment to get started. Here is a list of what’s needed to start casting for the 257 (or ANY caliber):
1. Safety Goggles or Glasses or even a Face Shield
2. Long sleeve Denim shirt
3. Brushed Leather Gloves
4. Long pants in either Denim or another NON FLAMMABLE material
5. 257 Bullet Mold
6. Plenty of lead
7. LYMAN, LEE or RCBS melting pot (20 lbs is a good). You can use a propane burner with some type of cast iron pot also. But that’s up to you. Do your homework.
8. Dipper/Ladle
9. Either a reloading press or a LEE hand press that will accept a standard 7/8×14 TPI sizer die
10. Bullet Lube and some studying/advise and some Common sense

Many of these molds can be found at a multitude of websites. Here is one such example: http://www.justbulletmolds.com/. Since there is always more than one website for any particular product, I will leave the shopping and goggling up to the buyer/reader who wants to shop for the lowest price on product and shipping. The web links posted up above for molds is just a guideline and not the single BEST website for said product.

PICTURES OF VARIOUS MOLDS IN .257

Doug’s 77 gr FP LBT mold


Roachcreek’s 100 gr NOE FP Mold


Tofazfou’s 74 gr FP LYMAN 257420 Mold with custom HP Pin by ERIC at HP MOLD SERVICES


Tofazfou’s 80 gr NOE FP Mold


Lyman 257 Mold



Arsenal 257420 Mold

VARIOUS .257 BULLETS:

LYMAN 257420 bullets cast by Tofazfou. FP and HP


IDEAL 100 gr HP Spitzer cast by RJ Porter


HOCH 109 gr FP’s in 20-1 lead/tin cast by Roachcreek


Various bullets cast by Tofazfou, RJ Porter and Hunters Supply


NOE 100 gr FP’s in 20-1 lead/tin cast by Roachcreek


NOE 78.3 gr HP vs 83.5 gr FP


Lyman 257420 vs NOE 80 gr

VARIOUS CAST BULLET BC #’s:
LYMAN 67 gr LFN GC 257420 = .129
LYMAN 89 gr LRN LOV GC 257464 = .204
LYMAN 89 gr LFN GC 257312 = .208
LYMAN 98 gr LSP GC 257418 = .221
LYMAN 113 gr LRN GC 257325 = .235
RCBS 117gr SP GC 257-120-SP = .271

Here is a PROCEDURE on “FIRE LAPPING” your airguns barrel submitted by Roach Creek:

Fire lapping a barrel.

I have fire lapped several rifles in my shooting career, most of them center fires that used jacketed bullets and I did it for improved accuracy, the 257 bore air guns I did for a different reason.

I fire lapped my two TJ Barrels for my Haley because I wanted them to be smoother inside to allow more shots between cleaning and for easier cleaning once fouled. Before fire lapping I was getting around 20 shots before I had considerable streaking and accuracy degradation, now it around 45 shots.

When I cleaned I used fine bronze wool on a 25 caliber brush and then followed it up with several doubled patches on a jag, then followed by #10 weight silicone oil to prep the barrel for the first shot lubed with #10 silicone oil. After fire lapping all but the most stubborn transfer deposits are removed with double patches.

The 1-14 barrel, I fire lapped with a Wheeler engineering kit from Midway, I had used their kits before and they had worked, so I was comfortable sending abrasive coated bullets down my bore, yes that does sound drastic, which is why I wanted to go with a proven, to me kit.

I prefer fire lapping to hand lapping due to the fact I ruined a Mini 14 barrel in my misspent youth and have never revisited hand lapping since.

The kit comes with three grits in little jars, 220. 320 and 600. Also included are two 1 inch by 2 inch steel plates and very clear instructions.

On my 1-14 barrel I followed the instructions on the kit, but used 15 shots per grit instead of the recommended 20 , 220. 320 and 600 and I cleaned thoroughly each 5 shots and thoroughly between grits. In the end I had a very smooth bore that resists fouling and cleans easier once it needs cleaning.

Then I fire lapped my 1-10 twist barrel and things were different.

First of all I did not use the 220 grit and I checked between shots because I was not using lube on the bullets as before so I was interested to see if they were fouling without lube because I had not checked that before on the 1-14.

And indeed they were, if I fired one shot, I could not notice fouling, on the 2nd shot I did notice fouling and on the 3rd shot I had major streaks. As a result I fired 20 shots of 320, cleaning thoroughly between shots, which is one hell of a lot of work, and then after those 20 shots I switched to 600 grit and I fired 25 shots, cleaning each time between shots.

To me the cleaning between shots was a no brainer. If I have streaking, I am polishing the lead deposited in the bore, not the bore.

When I shot the rifle after cleaning I also noticed again something different, the accuracy with100 grain NOE bullets had noticeably improved, and of course the shot count between cleaning had also.

I had miked my groove diameter prior to fire lapping and could not notice a difference in pre and prior lapping, but I was also using my “Harbor Freight caliper for the blind” so it was hard to tell if anything had changed in dimensions. Doug slugged the barrel when I had it set back for recutting the lead, it slugged out within the norms of other TJ barrels, just one heck of a lot smoother.

I did this on the 1-10 after I had cut the lead for 100 grain NOE bullets, I did not notice a increase in the lead dimensions or that they chamber any easier, they are still in that “putting a cork in a wine bottle category”.

I fully recommend the Wheeler engineering fire lap kit, but I would recommend cleaning every shot and not using the 220 grit.

Regards,

Roachcreek

VARIOUS RECOMMENDATIONS:

Cast bullet supplier that I recommend:
RJ PORTER – http://www.accuratebigboreairgunammo.webs.com/

Jack Haley Airguns (please read his webpage): ******MR HALEY PASSED AND THE WEBSITE NO LONGER EXIST – I CHOOSE TO KEEP IT UP******
http://www.southernairgunconversion.com/

CUSTOM 257 Air Force Condors: ******DOUG NO LONGER MAKES CUSTOM CONDORS******
Doug @ dyotat100@aol.com

For Hollow Pointing any bullet mold contact Eric at:
http://www.hollowpointmold.com/

.257 Barrels by TJ Enterprises

101 “QUICK TIPS/FACTS” about the 257

1. Best bang for your buck barrel in .257 is the TJ Enterprises barrel liner (Google this company name for pricing and phone number. No internet sales)
2. Common bore and groove dimensions are .250 BORE/.257 GROOVE
3. Common O.D. dimensions of TJ barrels tend to be roughly 9/16″ (.562″+-)
4. Pure Lead or 20-1 Lead seems to be the best to date
5. Hard Cast bullets don’t appear to be as accurate as Pure Lead in TJ’s barrel liners. But don’t discount harder cast bullets. These are firearm barrels.
6. Fire Lapping or Hand Lapping both work wonders in these barrels and are pretty much necessary to keep leading down and accuracy up
7. The more these barrels are shot, the more accurate they get
8. So far, accuracy is superb at velocities from 900 to about 1130 fps. More data to come. Please test velocity for your particular guns best accuracy
9. Various Air Guns and Barrel Manufacturers could be used for this project. The list is still growing.
10. To date, both the Condor and the Haley 257’s have hit Soda cans at 446, 502 and 552 yards!

IMO: Guns that DO and DON’T make for good 257 conversions
DOES – Jack Haley air guns (particularly the ones that fill to over 3600 psi)
DOES – DAQ air guns
DOES – Daystate Air Rangers (especially the 80 FPE version)
DOES – Daystate Wolverine 303 (expensive gun)
DOES – Big Bore EXTREME air guns
DOES – Korean Big Bore air guns (Shing Sun Career, Sumatra’s, Dragon Claws andSam Yang’s. And even the EVANIX 9mm guns)
DOES – XP Big Bore air guns including the Corsair
DOES – Air Force Condors
DOES – OF COURSE ANY CUSTOM BUILT or HIGHLY TUNED AIRGUN SUITED FOR MAKING SUCH POWER

DOES NOT – CALIBER CRICKETS (lol)
DOES NOT – EDGUNS
DOES NOT – FX BOSS 30 cal (too much restrictions within the guns internals)
DOES NOT – TOO MANY TO LIST HONESTLY (small bore air guns in general are not good for this conversion due to either TUBE size volume or internals that lack the ability to be highly modified. Many SB air guns are made for consistency while making 12-50 FPE of power and not 130-200 FPE)

***DISCLAIMER*** Due to a lack of knowledge on every single gun made today and also the machinist in existence and their capabilities, the above opinions are due to available current info and even the LACK OF. The sport is growing and the amount of people that are getting into 257 cal airgunning is steadily/slightly growing. So information is CREEPING in at a snails pace. But as more info comes out, the above listed info MIGHT change.

Game taken with the .257 cal.:




CUSTOM PARTS SECTION:
All parts by ADAM VIGIL (http://talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=9980):



http://www.maddogriflestocks.com/





MD stock on my TD257

Other Guns

All Replies

Viewing 15 replies - 76 through 90 (of 363 total)

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Thanks Knife ❗ I’ll give it a try tomorrow.

BTW, good to hear from you. Where the heck have I been :confusedn:

Lurker, after you have fully heated the mold, dip the end of the spru plate by dipping it into the melt for 30 seconds. This will stop the problem you are having with less than perfect bases.
The plate temp is just as important as mold temp! 😉

Knife

Arsenal 4 cavity brass molds are easier to work with vs a 2 cavity Lyman mold.
They sit nicely across the back edge of my Lee Magnum top dipper pot. Just straddle one bolt head. Oops ❗ I slipped ❗ BUT JUST RIGHT. LYMAN cast Bullet Handbook suggests resting one corner in the lead for more than 30 seconds and if lead doesn’t stick the mold should be up to casting temperature. I still use my hatplate to keep the mold warm while adding lead and fluxing it up. Getting used to a 4 cavity mold was different but the production is beginning to increase for me even with a few re-melts.


Attachments:

Can I call it a 10 shot group ❓
Shot fron a shooting rest at 200 yards.
Working out problems I’m causing but at least now I’m on paper.
The one marked lowest shot was a 92 gr that I temporarily ran out of.
The other 10 are 71 gr 257420 Boat Tail bullets from my Arsenal 4cavity brass mold.

Nah, “DNS” has negative connotation in retail whereas “NOBLE .257” is much more representative of the Quality, Power, and Support that Doug Continues to provide. Personally I think Doug’s pricing is very low.

Customization in itself presents numerous unique challenges that a yoyo may never fully understand or appreciate but Doug has proven his skills many times over. Customization is a continuous evolution and in my opinion it is the salt that will rescue our USA economy time and again.

i have cast about 200 Arsenal 257420 BOAT TAILS but have yet to shoot them at the range. As with other molds I have, I don’t get a sharp rear edge like Doug gets. Until I straighten that out maybe it isn’t that important with a BT bullet. I’m thinking the other Arsenal molds may be more accurate for my paper punching anyway.

Would a bottom pour lead pot do any better for me?

quote LURKER #1:

I’m trying hard to get myself together enough to finish sighting in this beauty that Doug custom built for me.

That looks like the sibling to the one I have in the works. The “Kick Ass” DNS .257s are on the loose! “Houston, we have solved the problem”!

How is this for a slogan? “DNS .257s, the answer to most problems”!

I’m trying hard to get myself together enough to finish sighting in this beauty that Doug custom built for me.


Attachments:

HI all, only new here.
Would there be any interest in a lighter .257, such as the 65gr from NOE? When it is available of course.

Also, for those that have bought and cast from the Arsenal 257420 molds, what diameter are they dropping at?

quote dougroundup:

I’m glad you got it made too! That .430″ group was with it and have several 1/2″ groups with it. That group is on Arsenal site pics ofo the mold. Jared asked if he could post it. I sent 4 others around 1/2″ but he used the one with Aspirin Tablet for comparisson ……Jared didn’t think I would have a problem keeping 5 cavity up to temp, my only concerns……I cast fast and actually probably get the molds to hot… Will see how it works……Soon may give it a try but with 1500 just made wait awhile…….Need to cast next the LBT 89 SP as down to a handful and with my new rebuild it shoots very well to and at long distance these 2 bullets will be better than the stuff I shot last year, no question…….

Carl[/quote]

Ha ha ha!
I am glad you like it!!!
I toldcha so!!!
Remember ????
:rofl: dougroundup says…..
” [/quote]

AND if YOU REMEMBER I SAID I TRIED IT 😎 …….I used RJ’s bullets in the 2 barrels i had then, and they sucked for my guns, barrels didn’t like at all…….I melted what i bought and cast another profile the barrels liked..The ARSENAL MOLD isn’t exact copy and Jared’s molds are exceptional for my gun now. I have a 4 cavity and two 5 cavity molds of the 388 profile. I have SINCE re-BUILT the gun from ground UP and THIS ONE WORKS……..Nothing is same except valve and tank………A 2nd gun is being re-built from ground up with a couple differences from the newest one, as in GUNSMITHS shop now…..Will be couple weeks before it is done…… I have 4 bullets available to me I did not have at end of last year when I shot to 1065 yds.

This season will be MUCH BETTER FOR ACCURACY at GREAT DISTANCE FOR SURE……Already is at 100 and 220 yds..Soon will get to longer range as the range is finished with week long shooting for awhile anyway…….

Carl

LOL….can’t keep up with you guys buying all these molds…….lol.

I ordered the LBT 90 gr cause Carl said they are excellent then i borrowed some from Doug and they shoot damn well from my gun now i here the 257388 is even better. Doesn’t surprise me though as the original Ideal bullet they were copied from shot very well in my gun too. But i have a Arsenal 257388 on the way in the future.

Thanks for all the leg work and reporting Devo and Carl

DYOTAT valve hammer & spring. Took a while with chronograph to figure out 8 was the best spring tension @ 3500 psi. Average speed 1034 with 257388 slugs. Mine aren’t pure lead. 25:1 with a touch of Oatey Leadfree plumbers silver solder in the mix.

Uncle Devo , you said your running your PW at #8,
Whats the weight and type of hammer inside your gun? Do you know how many pounds your spring is?
My spring is pretty heavy and it just seems to work better with as long a stroke as possible. If i go up much more than #8 my gun gets a somewhat more noticeable to cock, the hammer seems more prone to valve bounce and my spring compression is too close to binding… So while my power wheel window goes twices as high, reality is .that 8 is as high as mine should really go. At a 3.5 k fill I am shooting fine at about #2 and anything over 4 is just blowing alot of air out past the end of my 30″ barrel once after the bullet has exited. I would like to try shooting unreg’d at 4.5k Probably would start to get up there close to 8 like you guys. With 88 gr pure lead, getting about 1040-,1050 fps with under 3400psi PW on 2….. Not too shabby would ya say? Perhaps I should try shopping another spring that is less apt to binding though… Do you guys cock with the breach or do you use a side cocking hammer?

The 88 grain 267388 Arsenal Spitzers work fo my gun at 420 & 547 yards. Took out two clay pigeons at 420 and rounds on target at 547.

One of the two clays was taken out by hitting the Berm below it causing it to slide down. Made no adjustment to aim and hit it with my next shot. That’s good stuff at 420 yards.

Due to my lead tin mix my Spitzers come in around 82/83 grains. Great round. 3500 PSI, 8 PW.

quote rifle50:

quote uncledevo:

Please let us know if the 5 cavity works as well as the four cavity. Glad you like the mold, and I’m glad I sent some rounds to Jared to get it back into production. I’m not sure bu I think that 257388 was last in production in the 1950s or 60s.

I’m glad you got it made too! That .430″ group was with it and have several 1/2″ groups with it. That group is on Arsenal site pics ofo the mold. Jared asked if he could post it. I sent 4 others around 1/2″ but he used the one with Aspirin Tablet for comparisson ……Jared didn’t think I would have a problem keeping 5 cavity up to temp, my only concerns……I cast fast and actually probably get the molds to hot… Will see how it works……Soon may give it a try but with 1500 just made wait awhile…….Need to cast next the LBT 89 SP as down to a handful and with my new rebuild it shoots very well to and at long distance these 2 bullets will be better than the stuff I shot last year, no question…….

Carl

Ha ha ha!
I am glad you like it!!!
I toldcha so!!!
Remember ????
:rofl: dougroundup says…..
” the all around goodness of that old Ideal/Lyman #257420 bullet design. It seems to be a difficult all around design to beat….
In my opinion and limited trigger experience,,,,, There is indeed another bullet design that is very worthwhile!
It is an 88gr Spitzer. However it isn’t any of the same 88gr Spitzers manufactured today, such as the RCBS or NOE offerings.
The mojo bullet I am speaking of is produced from an old antique and long discontinued mould that was once manufactured by the original “Ideal” company.” :whistle:
Bigrifle50 says…
“I haven’t shot anything over 88 gr and won’t, as to heavy for the caliber for WAY OUT there with a 1-14″ twist, IMO! The 88 gr Spitzers of which you are fond of, Yes i have tried them from where you got yours as i read how Cedric said they worked for him…..For me and my rifle they did not work well at all…I shot a few early on and were big groups at 100 yds at 3200 psi…..I had purchased bag of 100 to try……Left on the shelf till i got my gun working much better..Tried them again a week ago when at the 220 yd range and have bullets that work great……..Only shot just a few at the 3500 psi level this time where my other heavy bullets worked best, but the group was forming from left to right spread on the target and WASN’T wind!!.Wasted no more air with them….i switched to another bullet and actually yesterday i cast some more BBT 79 gr and i threw the bag of 88 Spitzers in the melt……..SO thanks for your kind offer but I tried them…Actually was HOPING they would be good as the higher BC would be an asset…..” :rofl:

Well it is a trial and error live and learn thing and what works for one doesnt always work for another. I just know that they always worked great for me.
Glad to see that this cat or wildcat is outta the bag and currently avail in a quality production mould!
Great work guys!!! Glad to hear that I am not an anomoly any longer… Yup, love that bullet. Best groups ever …. But it does kinda take a bit of a lobb with a desent arc.

I cast hot and fast as I can. Preheating helps. I run two furnaces: a Lee bottom drip that’s there to melt sprues and feed stocks and an RCBS that I pour molds with. I run the RCBS maxed out on its temperature setting, after getting it going I back the Lee down to 7. I use a Lyman ladle to take liquid lead from the Lee to the RCBS. I don’t dross as often as recommended: why bother every 20 minutes if it’s pouring from the bottom?

The Arsenal mold is susceptible to heat failure. The bushings on my first 258388 came off. I tried less preheating with its replacement and got lots of bad pours: smiles, cavities, lines and dimples. Next try I went back to preheating: it worked much better.

I need to start separating by 1/10 of a grain.

Viewing 15 replies - 76 through 90 (of 363 total)

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