AA S4XX owners…do you have

I’m using the modified air gauge block, it’s just a bit harder to fill. I can have the hole in the Pekator stock enlarged to permit easy access. Daystate has the “half-moon” cutouts to allow access to their recessed fill connector. I can do that on the existing AA stock with a Dremel and coarse sandpaper head.

Pekator is moving kind of slow on my request and specs. I was told to wait for their response. That’s been a week or so. We’ll see what happens.

H 😯 😯 T

The only other pcp I’ve owned that was that quiet was a GTBJ shrouded Talon SS in .22 caliber, and an R & L Extreme .25 caliber with a Jim Gaska 15″ LW barrel and a Subssonic milled one piece baffle in his shroud extension. Both these were quieter than an Edgun or a Marauder. But the AA is as quiet as the modified Talons.

I’d have to say the AA is dead quiet, except for a bit of valve ping, with the pellet impact being the loudest sound. However, when fired over water, I get an echo back from the other side of the lake. Not a muzzle blast, or noise that I can distinguish, but the echo sounds like a dull “pop”. Somehow water changes the dynamic of the sound wave and you do hear the shot. Turn 45 degrees and shoot into the woods and no sound at all, except valve ping and pellet impact. That’s weird.

Josh Graham over at the Yellow did the work, and I can say he did a very good job in quieting this light weight beast down to nothing.

I’m definitely going with a bullpup conversion kit on this rifle. It is a tack driver, silent, and I get 30 good shots before POI changes. And 30 fpe is plenty for whatever I want to drop with one shot.

H 😯 😯 T

If I had the skill and inclination, I’d go with a 1 1/4″ bull barrel shroud. More volume and the look would be closer to what I want.

The 1″ looks like it belongs on the rifle as OEM.

If you were to take a slice out of one piece of carbon fiber tube, and turn it upside down, cut it to fit the notch you cut out of another CF tube, it would epoxy right into place, and slide right down on top of the air cylinder. You need a bit of CF to close the end of the shroud, as it is larger than the breech it will butt up against. Shouldn’t be too hard.

I can’t emphasize how much better the AA is with a working shroud. The 1″ brings it down to my very quiet specifications. I just think a bit larger would look better and work even better, if that were possible.

I urge you to go for it and guarantee you won’t regret it, especially if you have some decent baffles.

My next mod is a bullpup stock. I can’t do it myself, but Michael at Pekator-Poland is working up a price for me. Then I will have a dead silent, tack driving, ten shot magazine, 30 fpe, 30 shot, bullpup. I find that kind of hard to beat for the price.

Regards,

H 😯 😯 T

He cut a 1/4″-3/8″ valley in the bottom of the shroud (I didn’t measure) from the breech end out to the end of the air cylinder, and epoxied in a concave piece that sealed it off, and it then fits snugly against the air cyclinder. Remember a shroud that long and wide can absorb a lot of air pressure, and epoxy will hold up just fine! It’s not that hard to do with a bit of effort and care. He also moved the air filler to the air gauge location, and put a QD fitting in. The air gauge was moved up to the end of the air cylinder to permit the larger shroud to fit. The bulky AA air fill device wouldn’t work with the larger shroud. I like the QD fitting much better this way.

I’m not even sure the epoxied piece is metal, it may be pvc plastic. His baffles are unique and that helps a lot, but I’m sure any good design baffle will get the job done. AA baffle system is pure crap and ineffective. You have not lived until you fire the S4XX/S5XX on high power and all you can hear is the quiet valve ping and the very loud pellet slap!!!

Add the AA accuracy and this is one hard pcp to beat for the price.

Regards,

HH 😯 😯 T