About had it with new .25 edgun
out of all the guns I have had this gun is the hardest to shoot it seems to wants to bounce or jump when I shoot it, 700 pellets down the tube . I’ve tried holding the gun light an tight it will shoot 3 or 4 perfect then the next 3 or 4 will go high or go left or right at 50 yards it’s shooting 895 fps . Know way can I take this gun hunting, anybody want to buy it? its two weeks old. Always wanted a edgun now I don’t know what to do with this gun a friend came over and shot it ,he can’t shoot it either he has been shooting pcp guns for year,like me over 20 years .I guess I am just a little aggravated.
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:hoot:
Dear HazMat….
I only had to adjust the screw behind the trigger. When I got the gun the trigger was not two stage…I would pull and it would simply go off. There was no “feel” of reaching the second stage. Far too light in the pull of the trigger.
By adjusting the screw to put more tension on the trigger, the first stage became evident, and I could then tell when I had reached the second stage. A tiny bit more adjustment and the second stage would release the sear at about two pounds (1/2 kilo) of pressure. While the first stage pulls harder than normal…I have no problem with that, as long as I can come to a firm stop at the second stage, and know that a slight pull will then release the sear. It’s a small price to pay for the convenience of a one screw trigger adjustment, and not having to take the gun apart.
I have the .25 Standard Edgun, and it hits with authority. Edgun has always been the most powerful production airguns I’ve owned, and never have I felt a lack of power. Easy to adjust down and up for fps/fpe. It is a very versatile pcp!
Kind regards,
Uncle Hoot:
PS: I’ve been needing a small Cobra. Are they expensive? Can you ship them in a tube container? Is there any species of Muslim Cobra that prefers to bite fat, White, loud-mouthed, Christian women???
My biggest problem has always been with the trigger adjusted too hard or too quick to let off.
If second stage release was hard, I always pulled the gun up or down, or left and right, because I ended up “yanking” the trigger when I shot. That’s an accuracy killer.
The other problem was too light a trigger. It would go off before I was ready ,and the shots wandered all over the place.
Another problem was when I couldn’t tell when I got to the end of the first stage, and the trigger would fire the gun before I was ready..
I now adjust it to where I get a solid second stage contact with a very light pull, and then a quick, crisp release at about two pounds or less. That give me best shot control with no surprises.
Hoot:
Did you just adjust the trigger screw or the bar also that attaches the trigger to the sear ?
Regards
:hoot:
Odd, my new Edgun has no “coning” problem.
However, some pellets are different diameters and I suspect that is the majority of a lot of problems. I’ve had .22 pellets that were so large they were difficult to feed.
Besides weight, one also needs to determine the diameter of the pellets of that brand. Not all pellets are created equal. A smooth twist barrel may require a slightly larger
diameter pellet than a rifled barrel…I don’t know, but just a possibility.
The pellets I’ve measured have been as much as 4/1000ths different in diameter. So a .2200 may in fact be a .2150 or a .2240…a difference than can be felt when feeding and
loading.
This is even more true with the .25 caliber pellets.
Hoot:
Edgun trigger, you can live with it but as you said Dearest Uncle :hoot: it’s an accuracy killer and I never understood why this never could be improved.
I’m wondering why the gun that came back from Ernest now feeds the pellets better, did Ernest drill out the holes getting rid of the “pellet coning” feature?
A simple test is to cycle the gun with and without pellets so you see how much effort is due to the coning…
:2cents:
:hoot:
My biggest problem has always been with the trigger adjusted too hard or too quick to let off.
If second stage release was hard, I always pulled the gun up or down, or left and right, because I ended up “yanking” the trigger when I shot. That’s an accuracy killer.
The other problem was too light a trigger. It would go off before I was ready ,and the shots wandered all over the place.
Another problem was when I couldn’t tell when I got to the end of the first stage, and the trigger would fire the gun before I was ready..
I now adjust it to where I get a solid second stage contact with a very light pull, and then a quick, crisp release at about two pounds or less. That give me best shot control with no surprises.
Hoot:
just received the gun back from Ernest, so far shot 40 shots through it yesterday its dead on at 50 yards.I will shoot it during this week and let you know how it does so far it’s feeding the pellets better an grouping better under a dime at 50 on bipod thanks Ernest
I have had the following items ruin groups:
pellets
scope mount
parallax error
moderator out of alignment
wandering zero on scope
loose turrets
shooter error
inconsistent regulator
dirty barrel
missing O rings
The very first thing I attack is the speed. You need to shoot all your targets through a chrony. Fluctuations in speed will cause a group to move mostly up and down. Groups moving in a circle could be parallax error. Pellet clipping will show absolutely insane groups if not missing the target all together. We need to see your targets and your shot string in order to really help you find a solution.
I have noticed bullpups in general can be difficult to shoot when compared to a regular rifle. Have an experienced rifleman shoot the gun with you and see if he gets the same results. I have a friend who owns a Cricket. His group was wandering all over the target. I shot the Cricket and got .35 inch group. We determined that the scope mounts were causing him to have an inconsistent cheek weld and by switching to a lower mount he was able to make the gun shoot perfectly.
That “wandering zero on scope,” has really screwed me before. Your guns shooting nice groups, its just changing the poi constantly.. If you don’t think to try a different scope- This issue will have you tearing your gun apart and scratching your head for days. Trust me. You MUST try a different scope. The messed up scope will behave like its perfectly working.. you can adjust it to move your POI, it’ll print you a nice group,… then you *think* you got a flier, but the next shots all start perfectly grouping where that flier hit.. Man, I’m having flashbacks of that damn BSA scope that caused me so much grief LOL 😯
.
Hi all, I have read the thread and I don’t own a new EdGun yet still reading and thinking of.
But I do have a question.
Does the stock mounting bolt torque have any effect on the POI shift or shifting ?
My tape test for my shrouds for clipping if you haven’t see it already.
http://talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=31176#p316826
Added note after taping I place the muzzle directly against my corrugated cardboard rubber mulch pellet trap and fire, it makes of a cleaner hole.
If when you try it again and the hole is at a slightly different place I would suspect it’s clipping on the inside baffle.
It doesn’t need to be exactly on center but if it’s very close to one side I would suspect that it’s a problem.
~ GKU
Bob
Pls post the result of you tune, im having exact issue with my 22 standard.
talk to ernest sending it out to him Monday
Best reply ever.
With any gun you first need to remove variables to find the problem.
I have had the following items ruin groups:
pellets
scope mount
parallax error
moderator out of alignment
wandering zero on scope
loose turrets
shooter error
inconsistent regulator
dirty barrel
missing O rings
The very first thing I attack is the speed. You need to shoot all your targets through a chrony. Fluctuations in speed will cause a group to move mostly up and down. Groups moving in a circle could be parallax error. Pellet clipping will show absolutely insane groups if not missing the target all together. We need to see your targets and your shot string in order to really help you find a solution.
I have noticed bullpups in general can be difficult to shoot when compared to a regular rifle. Have an experienced rifleman shoot the gun with you and see if he gets the same results. I have a friend who owns a Cricket. His group was wandering all over the target. I shot the Cricket and got .35 inch group. We determined that the scope mounts were causing him to have an inconsistent cheek weld and by switching to a lower mount he was able to make the gun shoot perfectly.
I already have 1 tin (500ct) through it already. If I goes through another tin and it’s still get up down left right ABBA select start grouping then I definitely will be concerns. My is s .22 standard G2 R3M.
If not clipping, then ,Looks like you have big speed fluctuation .
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HOOT, are you sure you’re not my neighbor, sounds like the same woman living next to me.