Allen screw connecting barrel and air tube snapped
I was reattaching my upper assembly today and tightened the screw connecting the assembly to the airtube a little too much. The shaft of the screw snapped in half and is stuck inside of the hole. How do I get this thing out? Man I’m an idiot…
It’s the one on top in the picture.
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What he said!!!!
Hoot:
Actually…if you have a Menard’s around you, they have a micro easy out bit set that has the reverse drill bit on one side and the extracter on the other. I used it on two broken screws that snapped off almost flush. The bit has a cut to it that makes it self center itself. It worked flawlessly on my Edgun. I think the micro kit is called Grab-it? I used it on the really “skinny” screws.
What’s wrong with an “Easy Out”???
They come in all sizes and are available at any hardware store. It’s a device that has a hardened steel “drill bit” that works by putting your drill in reverse. All you need to do is first drill a tiny start hole in the broken screw, put the “Easy Out” bit in that hole, push down, and operate the drill, slowly, in reverse. Out comes the screw.
This shouldn’t be a major problem.
Where do you live, Asmatic-Breath? I can check and see if I have one that might fit.
Hoot:
A customer sent me his Edgun with the same problem, I used a macro needle nose pliers to slowly unscrew the broken cap screw—->there’s enough gap when you separate the AT and breech.
dont drill it you will just damage the alloy surrounding it and you will need the protruding bolt shank to help remove it, follow exactly what O/G said but instead of a bench vice wrap a quit a few layers of duct tape around the action or use leather like he said to prevent damage and use an adjustable wrench to hold the square sides of the action..
Thanks everyone for your replies. After reading your post, oldgoat, I think you’re spot on. Unfortunately, I don’t have access to a bench vice (I live in an apartment). Is there a way around this, or would drilling be easier?
1 broken off screw doesn’t make you an idiot. Break a few more off and you could qualify!!
The first thing that you need to do is: throw away the 2 foot long hex key wenches that you use on your Matador and buy a set of 6 inch long hex key wrenches. Your 2 foot long hex key wrenches allow you to put WAY too much torque on the LITTLE TINY screws.
Lighten up on the torque: YOU SAVAGE! 😯 😯 😯 😯 😯 😯 😆 😆 😆 😆
Now that I have had my fun at your expense and, if I am understanding that removing the bottom screw in your picture won’t allow you to slide the front breech block off of the back of the gun, you are in for a minor tear down.
Your picture shows that you already have the action removed from the stock and that you have removed the trigger and hammer assembly.
I take it that the broken off top front breech block screw has sheared off and that the remainder of the screw is protruding into the drilled hole in the front breech block. The remainder of the broken off screw won’t allow you to slide the front breech block back and off of the gun.
Actually; that could be a good thing! If the shaft of the screw is protruding up higher than the air valve housing, you won’t have to use any of the above posts that offer drilling advice. You should be able to easily turn the remainder of the broken off shaft out by hand or, you might have to use pliers to get a better grip on it.
What you are going to have to do IS:
1) screw off the front moderator tube
2) unscrew the baffle nut
2A) I would recommend that you reinstall the rear breech block and bolt it down, turn the action upside down and clamp the breech blocks down in a bench vise. Use a couple pieces of hard plastic, a couple pieces of hard wood or 2 pieces of leather so you don’t scar the breech blocks. Ed REALLY torques the baffle nut down!!!!
3) Once the baffle nut/baffle has been removed, unscrew the barrel and remove it along with the rear moderator air tube and the spacers.
4) Loosen the 2 hex screws that clamp the scope rail to the front scope rail/air tube mount and the rear scope rail mount that is part of the “sleeve” that fits over the breech end of the barrel.
5) Slide the front scope rail/air tube mount forward and then remove the “sleeve”.
6) The front breech block should now just lift off.
7) Remove the remains of the broken off screw, go to a hardware store for a replacement and
8) Put a little dab of Anti Seize on each screw’s threads before you reinstall them!!!
9) All of the Matadors screws just need snugged up except for the baffle nut. Ed REALLY torques the shit out of it and that is the way that I retighten them.
I tried to do a step by step guide to get you thru what you need to do.
If you have any questions, just ask.
If I analyse the situation correct,
You can slide the barrel assy backwards alone with the valve-regulator assembly it’s screwed into. I’d remove the trigger assy from the bottom first (3 screws).
Then you MUST drain the air, remove 3 large screws holding valve-regulator (YOU MUST COMPLETELY empty the air tube first!!!) and remove the rear plug (2 small screws).
Just came across this video
Probably because it broke off above the top edge of the receiver and it’s preventing you from sliding it off.
I just tried to move the assembly after unscrewing the bottom screw. It won’t budge… Ughhhhhh
If you remove the bottom screw, can you remove the unit? If so, go to the Homedepot or Lowes and get the grabit. they have different sizes. I would of course get the smallest one they have. Just remember that when you drill it into the broken shaft, it is on reverse not forward.
Not in an edgun… but I have backed snapped screws out with a small pointed punch and small ball pein. tapped gently to uscrew the broken section. I try to use the burr left on broken screw to start with.
Good Luck!
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…Hoot ain’t gonna steer ya wrong!