Anybody ever strip out the barrel grub screw holes?
I have done it to both my side grub screw holes on my Condor.
I repaired it by drilling out the holes with a 7/64th’s bit and tapping the holes to 1/4 28, rather than 1/4 20 to get more threads in that thin frame.
Then I bought 3/8 inch, 1/4 28 set screws, chucked them up in my drill and turned them while grinding on the 2/3rds or so sticking out of the drill chuck with a dremmel grinder. Once they are down to .18 you have a screw that will screw into the frame and still go into the bushing on the barrel.
Hillbilly fix.
Regards,
Roachcreek
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Darn once a year or two cold and a new cell phone with a different auto correction. I did not intend for you to rape your frame.
I had an idea but never tried it, and it might be a better solution.
Drill the holes out smooth, big enough for a 10/32 to pass thru.
Drill and tap the bushings, use domed screws to PULL the bushings into the frame, instead of PUSHING onto the frame.
Methinks this would ultimately be the better solution as bushings can be made/replaced much cheaper than the frame, and the barrel would most likely be more solidly positioned.
Fishing Rod,
I did consider that, and would have or will if this fix strips out.
Regards,
Roachcreek
You must know the Chihuahua fucker? 😆
roachcreek,
you could always drill and tap the 10-32 threads, on the other side of the frame. Then just rotate or modify your bushing.
I have to say I was pissed both times when my screw holes stripped out and of course rape is a crime of anger, but I had no desire to grudge fuck the rifle frame.
I am a little confsed as to why a person should “rape” their frame.
Lurker could it be you mispelled the intended word? 😆
Me thinks your index finger strayed a little to the left while typing.
Regards,
Roachcreek
😀 😀 😀 With Lama not around someones gotta do it. 😆
Duh, don’t strain yourself Stower.
With the stripped hole backed up from inside the liquid metal wouldn’t have a lump inside that is hard to grind off flush.
Maybe the tape threw you. Maybe thin plastic that could more easily be removed after the bushing of course.
Could you back up that hole with a bushing and short piece of rape ❓ ❓
Hmm…. uh…. Really? 😆 Short piece of rape should fix any hole eh? 😆 😆 I feel like going on and on…… 😆
Riff Raff,
Could you back up that hole with a bushing and short piece of rape ❓ ❓
Bunch of hamfisted hairless gorillas 😀
Ive done that Crow with a few projects and thats what I tried first.
The epoxy starts to chip out pretty quickly and doesn’t hold up very well if you over-tighten the screw.
I now have a little bit of the “liquid aluminum” epoxy, but its a total pain in the ass to grind out of the inside of the frame so I hesitate to try that again.
I posted a link to the stuff somewhere, but I cant find it. 😕 Its the best stuff made for bonding aluminum, and we use it here to fix tooling.
i used quick steel in the hole then once hardened i ground it level with frame and redrilled and tapped
worked great
Im not much a fan of Heli-coils.
The ones Ive seen are nothing more than hardened wire in the shape of threads, coiled up like a spring. The coil would also protrude inside the frame and wouldn’t fit the contour of the ID like a re-tapped hole will.
I had to use them on billet molds at the aluminum plant, and had to replace them everytime I took a mold apart.
Our frames are too thin in that area for a good fix, so what you did was the best option IMO.
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Drill the holes out smooth, big enough for a 10/32 to pass thru.
Drill and tap the bushings, use domed screws to PULL the bushings into the frame, instead of PUSHING onto the frame.
Methinks this would ultimately be the better solution as bushings can be made/replaced much cheaper than the frame, and the barrel would most likely be more solidly positioned.
I wonder how that would work? It would be pulling the bushing into the bottom of the frame and on one side whereas using set screws sandwiches the bushing between the set screw and the frame on the opposite side.