Anyone posted how to adjust Vulcan trigger?
:hoot:
I don’t recall anyone posting any info or pictures about what is adjusted to fine tune the first/second stage, and let-off pressure of the Vulcan trigger.
I was checking the owner’s manual and don’t recall finding any specific instructions there.
Someone willing to post a “How To” on Vulcan trigger adjustment and fine tuning? It would be an interesting and helpful topic for those of us who haven’t done it yet.
Hoot:
All Replies
1) Trigger Link Clevis, Length – For Safety Slide Clearance BEFORE COCKING !!!
2) Trigger Link Spring Tension – For Holding Initial Position of Trigger + Effects Trigger Pull Weight.
3) Trigger Lever Spring – Effects Trigger Pull Weight, has 3 threaded holes for the Spring Tension Stop Screw. Unlatch Spring End For Dangerously Light Trigger. Check it good ❗ Accidental discharge is on you ❗ Besides, it’s not necessary to improve on the already good smooth light trigger.
4) 1st Stage Length of Pull Screw with Locking Nut.
5) 2nd Stage Length of Pull Screw with Locking Nut.
•Not necessary but I switched the 2 different length in order to better center the screw adjustment for the way I like it best.
Please add anything I missed or correct spelling… Forget about form or punctuation as I didn’t like that teacher, she had to many rules :rofl:
Thanks Lurker. Good summary!
Frankly I cant say I found it to be a simple adjustment. My first stage is still relatively short despite adjusting the screws. And the second stage is not as light as I would like but Im not planning to mess with the lever spring. Anyways, its OK for now.
Not counting clean and lube, I figure 5 Trigger adjustments.
1) Trigger Link Clevis, Length – For Safety Slide Clearance BEFORE COCKING !!!
2) Trigger Link Spring Tension – For Holding Initial Position of Trigger + Effects Trigger Pull Weight.
3) Trigger Lever Spring – Effects Trigger Pull Weight, has 3 threaded holes for the Spring Tension Stop Screw. Unlatch Spring End For Dangerously Light Trigger. Check it good ❗ Accidental discharge is on you ❗ Besides, it’s not necessary to improve on the already good smooth light trigger.
4) 1st Stage Length of Pull Screw with Locking Nut.
5) 2nd Stage Length of Pull Screw with Locking Nut.
•Not necessary but I switched the 2 different length in order to better center the screw adjustment for the way I like it best.
Please add anything I missed or correct spelling… Forget about form or punctuation as I didn’t like that teacher, she had to many rules :rofl:
Told ya ! Once you understand the workings it’s immensely adjustable 😉
Lurker, mine came already set for minimum tension on the v-shaped spring. I don’t think I want the trigger any lighter.
It is just the way I want it. Nice to be able to set the trigger as desired — without needing to buy an after market
trigger blade or other such add ons.
Kris, the apparent ease of user service was a big reason I chose a Vulcan. Thus far, that has proven to be true.
The SniperQty videos convinced me despite not understanding half of what he showed. Those videos make
even more sense now that I have the mechanism in my hands.
I removed the whole trigger assembly, 8 small screws on the bottom where the trigger guard is. I think this is the easiest way and you don’t have to mess with the coupling. then you have to rotate the rod and the trigger assy itself carefully to separate the link rod was not too bad. now I have roughly the same length of exposed threading on the link rod ends.
I installed a ball pen spring, thin weak spring and high preload nice bouncy first stag. thanks for the tip.
these Vulcans are really user friendly. Easy to work on.
Guykuo, for a slightly lighter trigger pull I let off some tension from the trigger lever spring as I posted somewhere in the Vulcan topics. I didn’t get any accidental discharge bumping it around but your mileage may very. Be careful and check it out. It only reduced trigger pull 1/2 to 1 ounce. But 6.7 oz. ain’t bad.
Finally got my trigger working the way I want. Hoot’s advice to detach the trigger mechanism worked, but it only allows whole turn increments of change.
Half turn capability would have made things easier to get things working right. For a while I had a choice of
no safety when uncocked + 2 stage trigger
or
safety when uncocked + ONE stage trigger
I wasn’t happy with either. One turn shifted from one condition to the other. A half turn would have been perfect, but alas not possible with version linkage I have.
To get both a 2 stage trigger and also a safety that would work (but too tight) when un-cocked, I had to adjust the bottom trigger screw to slightly reduce sear engagement.
That shifted things enough to get function
Then a little more work taking a tiny more metal off the safety plate got all three things to work just right.
I also swapped in a pen spring for the linkage. That required a small washer to in front of it due to its smaller diameter.
Now I have a safety that works cocked and un-cocked.
A nice 1st stage that does NOT move the sear.
Then a short 2nd stage with an easily felt increase in resistance at its start.
Happy now, and so glad I got it adjusted.
The original setting didn’t really have a first stage. Turns out, the sear was creeping immediately. It was set up as a single stage and I was pulling it as a two stage. No wonder I couldn’t reliably feel when 2nd stage was reached.
A turnbuckle is also more prone to change it’s settings and will do so if without some stop screws. And “elegancy ” doesn’t belong in the world of East European Bullpups [SMILING FACE WITH SMILING EYES]
Thanks, Hoot. I’ll take a look at how that comes apart.
A turnbuckle would have been more elegant.
Also, maybe a locking stop on the rod (like the one that stops the spring) to set trigger pre-motion would be nice.
One could be put on the trigger rod behind the trigger blade and abut against the frame. That would let one
set the trigger to be slightly “pre-pulled” and adjust the 1st stage travel length.
Guy
Huh? Is your linkage rod composed of two parts?
Mine is a single solid rod and I don’t see how I can turn one end without turning the other.
What am I missing?
:hoot:
Take the trigger mechanism loose from the gun and rotate it. That way only one end of the rod is moved in/out.
Be careful with those tiny hex nuts, they strip/break easily. Push your hex wrench in as far as it will go and press down when loosening. Don’t over tighten…just snug, then a tiny bit more, that’s all. They don’t come loose easily.
Hoot:
The trigger link on my .22 Vulcan is detachable and adjustable from either end but only one end clevis is threaded.
I ended up with 1 1/2 turns to get the clearance I liked for the safety slide that after honing works like a jeweled movement.
That much adjustment may be why I decided to switch the two, different length, trigger adjustment screws. Then with a ballpoint pin spring I got my trigger pull to average 6.7 ounces. Very light first stage and 6.7 oz. second with no accidental discharge bumping it around.
Try the replacement with tension on it. You”ll like it !
it is all done, had a replacement spring at hand but was not needed, indeed I had to add a bit of tension on that spring and now it is all ok, first stage there, then second. great gun
thanks guys!
Even then. You´re correct.
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