Anyone posted how to adjust Vulcan trigger?
:hoot:
I don’t recall anyone posting any info or pictures about what is adjusted to fine tune the first/second stage, and let-off pressure of the Vulcan trigger.
I was checking the owner’s manual and don’t recall finding any specific instructions there.
Someone willing to post a “How To” on Vulcan trigger adjustment and fine tuning? It would be an interesting and helpful topic for those of us who haven’t done it yet.
Hoot:
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Yep! Screw away whichever end you want. Then change the spring to one from a ballpoint pen.
PS I’m always right – even when i’m wrong 😉
can the rod be unscrewed all the way, to gain access to the spring it the middle?
what has to be taken apart to do that?
you are right mi was just too loose
Not needed. I have mine adjusted to Match specs and nothing finer was needed. Breaks crisp and clean at 180 grams (approx 6.4 oz) . No complaints from my side. Had to change the spring though and one from a ballpoint pen did the trick. The Vulc trigger is immensely adjustable.
Detach? Well yeah, but I was looking for something more elegant and finer than 1/2 turn increments. 🙄
Here is how the trigger “1st stage” happens. The sear mechanism does begin to move until the linkage pulls far enough to close the gap. Then, the sear begins its creep.
If the trigger linkage length were adjustable, I could change how far the trigger blade moves before the sear begins its motion.
Fortunately, the distance isn’t too far, but it would be nice to have that adjustable.
Of course it allows adjustements. You just have to de-attach one end first and adjust each end separately. I’m talking about the trigger linkage rod here.
A trained Monkey could figure that one out .. 😉
There seems to be some discrepancy between what we are seeing on our various Vulcan’s. I am suspecting that the linkage rod isn’t the same on all the releases. My 0.22 appears to be from the June shipment and has a linkage that doesn’t allow adjustment of its length. It isn’t a turnbuckle. See the image below showing the threads on both ends.
Here is how the trigger “1st stage” happens. The sear mechanism does begin to move until the linkage pulls far enough to close the gap. Then, the sear begins its creep.
If the trigger linkage length were adjustable, I could change how far the trigger blade moves before the sear begins its motion.
Fortunately, the distance isn’t too far, but it would be nice to have that adjustable.
I have got 2 hw100s and over there it is like a see saw much better, the Vulcan is still good, no complains I just want to make sure I am not missing anything here
I think I get it now.
while we are at all this, anyone has replaced the large spring around the barrel, for me it feels like too heavy to push the cocking lever forward. anything can be done or it will just improve with usage, maybe thee spring is like a bumper.my pellets are easy to load.
I have to man up, the coking is a bit stiff for me right now
thanks guys for any input
Huh? Is your linkage rod composed of two parts?
Mine is a single solid rod and I don’t see how I can turn one end without turning the other.
What am I missing?
currently I have got a 1mm creep and then it fires when it falls off the sear. what to adjust. 😯
what I am trying to achieve is: a springy first stage i.e. if I change my mind the trigger blade goes back pulls back.
it sounds to me that my problem currently is that I have not got a first stage.
shall I set the sears just on the edge so there will be no creep, actually this is how it was before I started looking into it. however if I touch the trigger it just fires.
but what to do to get a first stage feel?
what to touch?
the safety works, everything else works fine, just missing the first stage. is my link spring too weak?
Try screwing the sear side of the turnbuckle so you get “longer” pull (ACW) a turn or two and definitely increase the spring tension.
I could fix it in five minutes had i the gun here. It´s not easy to explain but try what i just suggested and remember : Every parameter effects some other parameter when changed so go and test different things to get a feeling on which thing does what.
There isn’t a true 1st stage. That would be an increase in resistance to moving the sear just before the point of firing.
Instead, we get to simulate a 1st stage with the linkage spring lets you adjust the initial trigger travel tension, but it’s not a real first stage, just makeup of slack before the sear start to move.
It does give a two stage feel, but not by the usual mechanism.
Once the “1st stage” slop is taken up, you feel the sear’s spring tension as the “second stage”.
One advantage of the simulated 1st stage is that you can balk fire (release the trigger during the 1st stage) and the trigger returns to its fully cocked stage. The sear hasn’t move yet.
On a true 2 stage trigger, releasing pressure can leave the sear right at the edge of firing.
The top screw adjusts the post release travel.
The bottom screw adjusts the length of sear travel before it fires. You can easily see the degree of sear engagement changes with adjustment of the bottom screw.
You adjust the trigger blade position on the trigger end and the pull length on the other. Also – try and replace the spring around that rod with a spring from a ie ball pen and compensate with the “adjuster” for spring length. Also – don´t anyone of you know about the spring adjustement that´s behind the left side (or right – it was a while ago) plate covering the breech ?
There´s a kinda V-shaped spring and its tension can also be adjusted in a matter one changes a position for one little screw in there (the screw has, if i remember correctly , as said it´s been a while three different holes for tension adjustement ) and is also one of the parameters.
Bottom line : The Vulc trigger has immense adjustability so there IS a setting to please everyone. You just have to work with it and understand which thingie does what.
EDIT : I see it was just answered .. :whistle:
“1st stage” pull weight is created by linkage rod spring, the one on the rod and adjusted by sliding the little round nut with set screw.
“2nd stage” is the above + tension of sear spring, the one that keeps the sear tensioned. You adjust that by moving the screw to one of three holes available (or as Hoot does completely of the screw)
The linkage rod on my Vulcan 0.22 has threading on BOTH ends and the threading is definitely the same direction on both ends.
someone mentioned on the forum that there is only one threading on the link, it is something like a bicycle spoke, I will have another look on Thursday
sniperqty has got a video but no one speaks Arabic or Persian or what is it.
so with the spring tension can you set it up the way that you stop in the middle of the creep and it goes back to the original position? ok then that’s promising
So does adjustment of the bottom screw for sear travel relate to the weight of pull, or is that set with the linkage rod spring tension? I have mine apart for the hammer spring grommet mod, so I just a soon try to get my trigger the way I like it…..
How do you adjust the linkage length? That rod isn’t a turnbuckle. The threads on both ends are in the SAME direction. Spinning the linkage rod only moves one end in the same amount the other end moves out.
There isn’t a true 1st stage. That would be an increase in resistance to moving the sear just before the point of firing.
Instead, we get to simulate a 1st stage with the linkage spring lets you adjust the initial trigger travel tension, but it’s not a real first stage, just takeup of slack before the sear start to move.
It does give a two stage feel, but not by the usual mechanism.
Once the “1st stage” slop is taken up, you feel the sear’s spring tension as the “second stage”.
One advantage of the simulated 1st stage is that you can balk fire (release the trigger during the 1st stage) and the trigger returns to its fully cocked stage. The sear hasn’t move yet.
On a true 2 stage trigger, releasing pressure can leave the sear right at the edge of firing. In that state, a bump could fire the gun even with the safety engage.
The top screw adjusts the post release travel.
The bottom screw adjusts the length of sear travel before it fires. You can easily see the degree of sear engagement changes with adjustment of the bottom screw.
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Ville has every right to think he’s right even when he tries to write it.