Barrel Bushings
Made some new bushings today. Old ones were to loose. They measured 1.010″ and new ones are 1.014″. Also made the back one .050″ bigger and put a o ring in it to stop the air from pushing the power wheel towards the breech. Also added a second set screw to it. I noticed the barrel had moved when I removed the old bushings.
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That is almost exactly what I did. The power wheel bushing is the only bushing used. It’s actually 2.5″ long and the only place it touches the frame is on the bottom.
I got the idea from my .17 HMR, the barrel is total free floating and it holds a pretty tight group out to about 300 yds.
But on the other hand, I have seen some 7mm,s that had the barrel strapped to the stock almost to the muzzle that were just as accurate.
Dyotat100, have you did any testing with the new, tight bushings? I really think just replacing the sloppy lose stock bushings has to make an improvement.
This all being said, my Talon SS with a 12′ barrel right out of the box was a tack drier at 35 yds, go figure.
Andy, unless the barrel can move because of the ‘egg’ shaped holder you should be fine(i’m guessing you took out the second closer to the muzzle bushing).
This has me thinking that a longer first bushing (power wheel busing) might be of some benefit. And leave out the second bushing.
I have seen some heavy benchrest pb rifles that have a gigantic clamping block (8″ long) just in front of the receiver. 😕 😯
If you don’t mind , I have a little question. You just spent a lot of time and effort to make your barrel tight in the frame. From what I was taught over the years is that a floating barrel is more accurate.
I have a Talon SS with a 24″ .22 barrel and a Hi-flow tank and valve.
I made a bushing in the shape of an egg that is 2.5″ long, has 2 grub screws for the barrel and at 30 degrees 2 grub screws to mount to the the bottom of the frame only. I mounted it in the original position of the first bushing, the rest of the barrel is floating.
The question is, am I going the wrong way?
Doug,
Your killing me here dude, all this stuff with these much improved valves, now the better bushings with extra set screws for the barrel and an O-Ring… LOL
I am going to need to go to work for you to be able to afford all the stuff I want you to make for me if I can talk you into this LOL…
I want new bushings for my .25 caliber barrel, they don’t fit as well as I would like them. I have shimmed my bushings up a little, which is fine and dandy, but with this 18″ barrel and how well it shoots anyway, it needs new bushings to fit it and my frame…
Your work is very impressive Doug, very impressive!!!
Snug fit no play. They are .635″ and the barrel is .634″.
How much play do your bushings have (do they slide freely over the barrel)?
I have thought about removing the front bushing. My Logun S-16 is like that. Has a little larger rear bushing and barrel is supported at the end in the shroud. Seems to work good. Gun is real accurate. That way barrel is only being held in 2 places instead of 3.
Thought about it yes will it do any good. I don’t think so its a chance for the frame to bend the barrle. A better bet would be just use a thicker bushing father back and have it ware there is only tne part touching the frame. Kinda a free foating thing. Just my thought
Anyone ever move the location of the bushing farther toward the muzzle end of the frame and barrel???
Dam its about time u do that oring. IV had mine oring for a long time LOL. But I was able to cut the grove on the stocks bushing. It stoped all the air that blows back no more lead dust coming forward.
I will pull the barrel in the morning. Got back on finishing the threads on the new valve.
It mounts in the frame with 4 grub screws at 90*apart, 2 on each bushing. The bushing is mount to the barrel at 45*. I added the 2nd screw on the first bushing at 180* to better hold the barrel. I also changed out grub screws ones that bite into the barrel better. I will take it apart when I get home in 15 min
Was hoping for a pic showing the arrangement of holes…looks as though the barrel/bushings mount to the frame using two (grubs?) screws coming through the lower half of the frame tube ~60degrees apart?
Also looks as though you mounted bushing to barrel with two grubs 180 degrees apart.
Kind of obvious I don’t have one of these just yet eh? 😆
Workin on it. 😉
Thanks,
Al
You are right about the recess for the grub screws. I was surprised myself. I’m making somemore here shortly. What do you want to see? I’m going to pull my barrel because I think I put the bushing with the o ring facing the wrong way. I have 2 frames I’m building up, .25 and .308.
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The main reason I did it was the barrel wasn’t in the middle of the frame at the hammer/breech. I made my hammer a little bigger in diameter then I normally do. It was rubbing the frame on the top off to the right side at about 1:00. Because the bushing is loose when you tighten the bottom and left screw it moves it out of center.
I have thought about only running the rear bushing for awhile. Making a larger bushing, putting a screw on top and right side. Then letting the shroud support the front of the barrel like my Logun S-16’s.
I wasn’t doing it for accuracy. Main reason was to stop air from pushing the power wheel towards the breech and make sure barrel is in center. If it improves the accuracy all the better.