Beta testing on Big Bore Tadagger Super AiRRow
Well on vacation, built most of it up last night on a loose Talon SS frame with a trigger group out of one of Tony’s Condors, his Breech knob, Woks AR trigger guard, trigger pad & butt on a JDS 68ci bottle with a canted ETAC with a Blod Knob Big Bore valve plus a Russian Kobra holographic sight mounted on the foward rail
AND
the experimental Tadagger Big Bore conversion…
this is overall a great piece of work
right now I am using the standard Tadagger striker spring and while its moving a great deal more air volume, its actually a bit quieter than the small bore conversion with the modified Condor valve probably due to the larger bore diameter and more efficent valve.
No numbers yet, still fighting my chrony and weather but it is running bolts clear through one bag and buring them to the fletching in the second. Maybe not twice as fast as the Condor based valve but I am reasonably certain its in the 600FPS plus range
on a side note you should have seen the faces of the clerks at the local Archery joint when I inquired what the best target they had. They showed me a local manufactured 400FPS one, said nope, need something good for at least 600.
the look was priceless as were their reactions when I brought in the completed rig
“What the hell you call that thing?”
“Where did you get it”
“How much?”
and so forth…
anyways hopefully I can get up some numbers to report back with a few pix, perhaps even a couple meat shots if one of my buddies up here has a Beef cow to volunteer for testing as numbers have never meant as much to me as seeing what a projectile does on living flesh & blood
so far it looks good, no valve lock Walt, may up the spring rating tomorow
one thing for sure this has SERIOUS promise… 600FPS with a heavy cutting projectile is about as devistating as it gets in flesh & bone media short of explosive slugs
have my own creative juices flowing now 😉
All Replies
Riverside,
Does your breech have the brass insert?? That insert seems pretty sturdy TD…but I guess time will tell. Next week I plan on doing some shooting, and crony testing.
RS, thanks for the heads up on the window screen. I’ll give it a try. You have lots of good ideas, kind of late for me and I’ve been sniffing glue and paint all day (not intentionally 😕 ) I’m off to see the sandman.
Joe
That delrin breech has a 1/2” hole through it, so there’s not much wall left to tap into, I had hoped the brass insert would hold up 😕 In retrospect I should have reinforced the brass with some 2 ton epoxy.
I think subsonics sidecocker attaches in with two screws so that might be a solution. I hope you can get it going again Im curious to know if it got up to 600fps.
Tag,
yes subsonics side cocker is a great idea
still a metal breech is I feel is an absolute necessity with heavy striker springs
I may get ambitious and slot this frame with the handy dremel yet tonight then use the alloy Blod Breech 😉
Riverside, 80 Grit,
I keep telling you, Subssonnic has the solution to that breech bolt. The standard breeck knob just does not hold up to the stress of the more powerrful spring that is required.
Let me guess friend, your thumbs are sore also?
That bolt makes cocking it effortless.
Roachcreek
80 Grit:
the locally manufactured targets are pretty decent as the use window screen tailings from the local window and door plant. Better than most standard targets for sure.
doubled up they are stopping the bolts
well couple hitches so far
worst one is my SCBA tank is near toast and trying to get it filled up here may be a lost cause. Tried the local fire department but getting ahold of the chief has been no go so far
the other issue is the insert in the breech for the cocking knob has gone loose…no luck with JB weld either. I discovered I can use my 9mm Blod knob breech but would need to slot the frame as its side cocker only…sigh
interesting thing that as it mean I can swap between the big bore arrow barrel and the 9mm unit once I build my new frame.
or…
maybe machine up a second 9mm bbl and build mongo diameter bolts using larger diameter tubing…
or…
possible a .308 barrel turned to fit these bolts which are already of a larger diameter than the standard AirArcher units…
was over at the neighbors last night with some friends, ended up destroying his foam deer target shooting off his deck. Tons of interest even after being quoted my invested price
could have sold two of them on the spot once they shot a few bolts and watching the bolts sail through the foam Bambi and nearly through a double wall of Straw bales behind it
only major improvement will be a metal breech so far as I can see
well time to try and track down the fire chief again… 😉
good info roachcreek. Thanks! 🙂
Joe,
It just dawned on me that is why you want the 3×9.
Go for a 1×5 if you can find it, parallex is not something you need to worry about, and you never need that kind of scope power if you shooting under 100 yards on big game.
Face it, if you shoot groups with this rig, you ruin arrows. So paralex is not an issue.
I have killed truck loads of game, and always put my scope on the lowest power and kept it there, unless trying to put horns on game at long distance or shooting groups, none of which you need to do with this weapon.
Any expert on big game will tell you the same thing. I always taught my kids to carry their rifle scopes on the lowest power possible.
Problems arise when you crank up the power to view something, that should probably been viewed with bino in the first place, then forget your on high power and a buck or bull jumps out at 25 yards going like hell, all you get to see is hair, when you should be leading it.
Most of these airgunners I feel go way to far with the power, especially on these cheap scopes we use.
Read Butchers responce on the yellow about scope power, he uses a 1×5 and his choice of scopes tells me he obviously knows what he is doing.
Remember were not shooting lizards with these things.
Roachcreek
I get 400FPS with those gold tips and 375 or so with the 2413’s.
If you put a side rail on the rifle and then put a redot on the side rail, you could have dual aiming devices.
Joe, I have found that past 60 yards it has the rock effect, and unfortnately it is not a flat rock. Big problem is that is still has enough velocity to hide those arrows into the sod.
I have been recording the suspected hiding places of lost arrows so that when it gets economically feasable, I can rent a metal detector and hopefully find them.
I have used both my Baraska 3 X 12 air gun scope and the three red dot
sight, jury is still out on the red dot, I have been shooting a lot of squirrels with the red dot that is now on my SS while waiting for that frame, it works but on three power with Baraska, I have more dots to use.
If you use 3 power and sight in on the top post, it will give you more options for drop. I have considered finding a farmer who has those giant bales here in ORegon and asking if I can sight in on it. I would only do this at 60 yards and further, because closer than that, you would bury the arrows.
Having said all this about sights, you do not need magnification for big game when shooting at the ranges this thing is good for. If you have it at all no more than 3 or 4 power is all you need.
For persomal defence, the red dot would be king.
Riversides version should shoot flat for 440 yards then start climbing. 😆
Roachcreek
give them a shot one good thing is if u dont fasten them together u can pill the squares off one at a time if they dont pull out
go to walmart and look in sporting goods section go to were the weights r at look for the gym floor squares they r like interlocking i was shooting my bow at300 fps 4 of the mats would stop them at 10 yds i would get probly 8-10 of them and stack them together should work well
Thanks rj…I’ll look into that. I have some here in the house…but they are under the ol’ lady’s treadmill…that might push her over the edge 😆
hey 80
go to walmart and look in sporting goods section go to were the weights r at look for the gym floor squares they r like interlocking i was shooting my bow at300 fps 4 of the mats would stop them at 10 yds i would get probly 8-10 of them and stack them together should work well
On mine I am confident my 3×9 with mildots will be a good choice as I think this thing is going to do damage out to 100 yards.
All I know is that I have not had a chance to do some serious testing but so far I have a standard archery block target swallowing my arrows at 50 yards. TD estimates mine should be moving around 400 fps.
I can’t imagine them moving at 600 fps 😯 You will never be able to shoot them at anything other than meat for sure…but if you do figure out a good material to stop them…please let us know. I am working on a few targets now and I will post pics when I am done and when I do more testing.
The barrels are a carbon fiber aluminum composite. They are not rifled.
Mine appears to be about 25 caliber and is 21.5 inches long, and is more flexible than a rifle barrel. Mine is also the production model I guess you would call it, Riversides’ I believe is a stepped down bore version because of the velocity he wishes to achieve.
So on mine, you could but it would be no where close to the accuracy you get with the arrows or a conventional barrel.
Having said that, I do believe that one could be manufactured from a 22 or 25 caliber barrel or barrel liner and then you would be able to shoot pellets thru it. Probably at a greater velocity that what a stock Condor vavle would produce, due to the fact that Tagdaggers converion includes a different spring and a larger orafice on the spring retainer.
Tagdagger of course has done volumes more work on this and would be the final answer on what can and cannot be done.
Hope that helps answer your question,
Roachcreek
It would be cool to have that option. One could use a laser for the arrows and scope for pellets or vice versa.
Love my talon SS,
The barrels are a carbon fiber aluminum composite. They are not rifled.
Mine appears to be about 25 caliber and is 21.5 inches long, and is more flexible than a rifle barrel. Mine is also the production model I guess you would call it, Riversides’ I believe is a stepped down bore version because of the velocity he wishes to achieve.
So on mine, you could but it would be no where close to the accuracy you get with the arrows or a conventional barrel.
Having said that, I do believe that one could be manufactured from a 22 or 25 caliber barrel or barrel liner and then you would be able to shoot pellets thru it. Probably at a greater velocity that what a stock Condor vavle would produce, due to the fact that Tagdaggers converion includes a different spring and a larger orafice on the spring retainer.
Tagdagger of course has done volumes more work on this and would be the final answer on what can and cannot be done.
Hope that helps answer your question,
Roachcreek
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TD…
managed to get it running long enough to Chrony today. My SCBA was down to just under 2000 so snapped it on the ETACs foster and cranked the bottle open.
As such the numbers are not going to be the same with a 3000 fill but were still impressive
Started at 602 then ran down to 528 before it was time to eat
I could tell it wasn’t shooting quite as hard as last night…
pretty sure a full 3000 fill after juggling springs and maybe a spacer should bring it up into the 650 range
its really pretty slick and the more I look at it the more I am certain I can use my 9mm Blod breech and hammer. The blod 9mm breech has an ID of .510 where yours is .514
It is ever so slightly loose on your barrel but the O rings are sealing well, plugging the bore with my thumb I can’t blow air past them and I have pretty good lungs
still piddling it through… 😉