Blodnob Valve in use
Well, by fate I recon, I got out of dinner with the In-Laws and managed to get home and install the valve, test it, then install the new spring. Here are some findings, (for note my rig is an .22-SS w/75 gram brass hammer, shooting 18gr. JSB Diabolos)
After installing the valve and filling the tank, the valve did not want to seal untill the pressure dropped to around 1.4k. (hand pump, PITA!) After a few dry fires to try and seat the fresh delrin, i repressurized to 2k and still had a faint leak. Fired a few more times and that seemed to take care of the problem. Repressurized to 3k with no issues.
With the standard AF spring and a 75 gram hammer and PW@max. I was getting about the same power I did with the old valve set at PW8 (on the old setup much above 8 was a waste of air). I noticed the stock spring does not have the necessary force to fully open the valve. Time to switch springs.
BTW, I have noticed that the new valve is considerably quiter than the old one, which BTW had the o-ring mod around the stem!
New spring, what a stiff MF’r. Honestly I think it’s a little much simply because of the force required to cock the gun. The standard delrin breech slide & knob, I can see wearing out pretty quickly due to that force. Particularly where the knob and slide mate together.
Now, firing with the new spring, and the PW@min the valve is opening close to full and gun is firing harder than ever before and quitier. In my basement at 10ft, I was splintering the back side of a 2×10. Uping the PW to 4ish I didn’t notice a big difference if any.
Top hat i left about where it came, maybe out a little more. make sure you tighten the lock collet on the inside of the tophat down/against the valve stem to lock it in place.
Keep in mind I have no chrony so all of my findings are based on sight and sound. Not the most accurate but I am very use to how the old setup shot and that is what I’m comparing to.
I believe that a spring somewhere inbetween the Stock & the new would be perfect and allow some useable range with the PW, and keep the breach slide and knob from wearing out quickly.
Later, brothers,…
All Replies
Use the new heavy spring and adequate tophat setting at say 0.080″ provided you have the new style AF valve?
I agree it looks like you will gain for sure filling to 3,000psi.
Enjoy your shooting 🙂
Walter….
Got yer numbers. Hi flow valve, 2800 PSI fill, tophat .062(what it was set at didn’t want to change it)
1000
995
982
956
951
898
982
974
949
961
973
965
953
956
935
953
896
936
872
890
933
931
862
880
920
902
883
Not as consistent and seems too waste a little more air than the new blod valve. Still shot a decent group at sixty yards even though it was windy. 😀 I’m now almost out of kodiaks, where do i get some? Ordered from PA and they are out of stock. 👿
Thanks Faust, couldn’t find it using search.
Posted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 5:07 pm Post subject:
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The burst disk is rated at 4500 psi but I wouldn’t recommend filling the tank that high, you probably wouldn’t be able to knock it open.
Thought I would save Brad some time as I recently read this post by him.
Greg
Brad,
What is the rating of the Burst Disk?
Hammer is one Blod made , Can`t find my standard hammer to weigh it .
The spring is quite strong so its a bit harder to cock than it was with the standard spring but not too bad .
nutshot, That’s a nice shot curve. Is you hammer a factory one? If not what does a factory Talon one weigh? Does your hammer spring require a lot of force to cock?
Heres my string with a Uk made blodnob on my .25 with kodiaks
Start pressure 230bar , Hammer 80gram
1 970
2 982
3 986
4 986
5 998
6 1003
7 1001
8 996
9 998
10 1000
11 989
12 989
13 988
14 989
15 990
16 990
17 988
18 986
19 992
20 988
21 986
22 989
23 984
24 988
25 984
26 981
27 982
28 981
29 978
30 978
31 981
32 979
33 977
34 970
35 975
140bar left in bottle .
I put my valve in as well today. Its almost a piece of art it looks so good. I havent had a chance to shoot it yet but Im sure its gonna be awesome.
The spring worries me though. Its Very strong. And when I shoot it it goes “boiiiiiiiing”. Im not sure about how long the plastic parts will last with a such a strong spring there but time will tell.
Would you be able to post numbers using the AF Condor valve vs the Blodknob?
Use the new heavy spring and adequate tophat setting at say 0.080″ provided you have the new style AF valve?
I agree it looks like you will gain for sure filling to 3,000psi.
Enjoy your shooting 🙂
Walter….
Thanks A.T. i was just being conservative and workin up the ladder. Honestly i’m happy that with the little tinkerin i’ve done i’m getting such consistent and high velocities. I’m used to 800’s since i put the .25 cal barrel on, this is a drastic improvement already, i’m sure there is a lot more potential left in the valve. We’ll be seeing some crazy numbers here soon by people who know how to finesse these guns, most haven’t received theirs yet it seems, or haven’t had time to play yet. 😀
Stower, from the numbers shown you should be able to start with a full 3000 PSI fill (or a bit higher). That may give more of a bell curve to the string and a few extra shots.
WOW
I can’t hardly weight to start on the big bore 308 conversions, I think it will be getting some sweet numbers, well we will see when I get one all together. Any other ideas for products for the AF guns besides the valve with gauge& fill port already working on that one.
Pass. Thanks. 😆
Sorry, i used Kodiaks 30.7gr. And i’m still using the stock hammer, with the new supplied spring. My PW adjuster is a plastic POS. Wanna trade?
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Blodnob Valve adjustment instructions.
First thing you have to realize, this is a valve that needs to be adjusted for your setup, when they were sent out they were only assembled and not adjusted, because everyone has different setups and calibers so here are the basic assembly and adjustments, after you have the valve setup remember never to adjust past the o ring engagement.
Step #1
Install valve stem.
Step #2
Install spring.
Step #3
Take top hat and install set screw.
Step #4
Take top hat and install it on valve stem.
Step #5
Adjust set screw until it is flush with top hat, and then screw top hat into valve until it stops on valve stem.
Step #6
You have completed the initial adjustment and when the top hat is pressed down should look like the picture below.
Step #7
Here is a picture of how the set screw looks in the top hat when it is at full adjustment.