Blodnob Valve in use
Well, by fate I recon, I got out of dinner with the In-Laws and managed to get home and install the valve, test it, then install the new spring. Here are some findings, (for note my rig is an .22-SS w/75 gram brass hammer, shooting 18gr. JSB Diabolos)
After installing the valve and filling the tank, the valve did not want to seal untill the pressure dropped to around 1.4k. (hand pump, PITA!) After a few dry fires to try and seat the fresh delrin, i repressurized to 2k and still had a faint leak. Fired a few more times and that seemed to take care of the problem. Repressurized to 3k with no issues.
With the standard AF spring and a 75 gram hammer and PW@max. I was getting about the same power I did with the old valve set at PW8 (on the old setup much above 8 was a waste of air). I noticed the stock spring does not have the necessary force to fully open the valve. Time to switch springs.
BTW, I have noticed that the new valve is considerably quiter than the old one, which BTW had the o-ring mod around the stem!
New spring, what a stiff MF’r. Honestly I think it’s a little much simply because of the force required to cock the gun. The standard delrin breech slide & knob, I can see wearing out pretty quickly due to that force. Particularly where the knob and slide mate together.
Now, firing with the new spring, and the PW@min the valve is opening close to full and gun is firing harder than ever before and quitier. In my basement at 10ft, I was splintering the back side of a 2×10. Uping the PW to 4ish I didn’t notice a big difference if any.
Top hat i left about where it came, maybe out a little more. make sure you tighten the lock collet on the inside of the tophat down/against the valve stem to lock it in place.
Keep in mind I have no chrony so all of my findings are based on sight and sound. Not the most accurate but I am very use to how the old setup shot and that is what I’m comparing to.
I believe that a spring somewhere inbetween the Stock & the new would be perfect and allow some useable range with the PW, and keep the breach slide and knob from wearing out quickly.
Later, brothers,…
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O.K. so i got a chance to do a shot string, 21″ .25 cal. talon, PW set at 5, tophat? set maybe a sixteenth of an inch below flush with the top. Starting fill pressure 2800 PSI.
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Not a bad curve for my tastes. Man those pellets are smokin, blowing threw my plywood backstop with authority. Money well spent so far, although that cocking effort is going to take a little getting used to. Hey Brad, how about a nice alloy breech too replace this plastic crap, and an alloy PW adjuster that is once again, not plastic. Too damn windy to shoot groups, maybe tonight i can get some groups with less wind. The monster hiding in my Talon has been AWOKEN!!!! 😀 😀 😀 😀
There was only 3 modification that were made to the valve, fist modification was to add a burst disk to make my insurance company accept the design for my liability insurance, the second was increasing the length of the valve body to accept the burst disk, third was to thread the delrin seal so there would be no chance of it coming off those were the only modifications made.
I sort of understand where it is and its basic function. It controls the air released from the tank. For me if it was more consistency or accuracy or power those would be reasons to change it. I a like a little kid who wants to know what I am missing. lol 😉
The original blodnob design inceases consistency, shot count and power over the stock valve. It operates a bit differently.
Blodnob, who is a member here, developed it and made the first valves. Since Blodnob is from England (and stays very busy I might add), Brad has taken on the task of creating the valves for the US customers. We are patiently waiting on some numbers to verify they do work as the original Blodnob valve.
Not at all, I wanted to be sure people knew I was not trying to be a wiseguy. I was certainly interested in the valve if there were benefits.
I sort of understand where it is and its basic function. It controls the air released from the tank. For me if it was more consistency or accuracy or power those would be reasons to change it. I a like a little kid who wants to know what I am missing. lol 😉
Thanks
I will be making a heaver hammer for the valve setup hopefully within the next couple of weeks.
I played with mine some late last night, stock spring with new valve was getting low 800’s, changed the spring and PW at 5 got 980’s for five shots over the chrony. Fill pressure was 2200 PSI. I have a 21″ talon .25 cal. It sure does send those big pellets downrange with authority. Hopefully later today i can play with it some more, maybe some long range groups to see how it will do. I’m thinkin a heavier hammer( mines the stock talon hammer) with a lighter spring might make a better combo. The cocking effort compared to the old spring must be double, but it works! Nice job mr. Selph. 😀 😀 😀
“Not to sound like an ass 😉 ” I don’t know. Sounds to me like you should leave everything alone. Obviously u don’t need/want more power, I guess if your valve is loud, this one could be quieter. It was for me.
I was only posting my findings since I appear to be the first to install or at least share how the valve is operating in my setup. I’m curious as to others experiences with the valve as related to my experience.
Why would I install the valve? I am at max with my velocity with heavy kodiacs. I am not being a smart a– I am truely interested in what the valve may or may not do for me. I think if I went to .25 there is plenty of reason to juice it up. As my rig stands I do not fill to 3000 to keep it under 1050 ft per sec. With my tophat setting and power wheel almost maxed I get about 1035 ft per second (cheap chrono but I assume its right because I checked with lighter pellets that broke speed of sound.)
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Pellet used? … and my PW is aluminum.