Bought used Condor what is wrong with it
This Condor shoots like shit, I am pretty sure the hammer is dragging on the sear by the looks of the hammer, should I grind the sear down? Someone has been into the trigger housing and it also has a two screw trigger job, I turned the screws back out a ways to see if I got any more consistancy, it did,, but as ussual it jumped 60 to 80fps. in one shot. I’ve tried 3 tanks same thing, if the hammer has alot of cuts on it would that cause that much drag? I took it apart as soon as I got it cleaned it and noticed the sear marks on the hammer right off, has anyone ever had to grind the sear down before?
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$600. Yes. Hopefully.
Talon SS ? How much? Do you regret it? Are you going to get another?
I sold it. Redlace bought it.
Free, free,free, yeepee!! what happenned you lost your AF gun or sold it?
I don’t need any sort of payment, to work on your Condor. 😆
Maw wrote:
That statement just does not make any sense to me, wife out of town, doing projects, can’t play with gun. Is it just me?
I do have a Crossman Storm you can have, the barrel flew up and broke the stock in 1/2 and bent the barrel but I glued it back together and beat that barrel back as true as the eye can see.
Send it to me. I will work on it for a while for you. Should take me about 5 years to make it right. 😉
That was the 15.9 JSB’s, pw 0, I think but not for sure I am going to tweek the valve alittle more for consistancy. 1st try at a high pressure like 2800 to see how that goes I can probably do that soon, but my wife left town and I am stuck doing projects right and left for now.
Ya, good for you man… I too would not like being shot not only by myself, but also by the Condor… My Condor .25 is a bad muther when its got 3200 psi fill LOL…
Your numbers above do look great by the way… With what pellet was those with???
Just keep an eye on things with your rifle for a while and you will get her settled in better after a tin or two of pellets now, least I hope so…
Rowdy, ya I was worried about that myself, I slammed the gun all around to see if it would go off, shit would hate to get shot by one of these!!
Finally went out to do a chrony and was surprised that most of the issue is pretty much gone heres the numbers
1070
1057
1076
1075
1088
1088
1088
1090
1079
1078
1077
1071
Tank is low, can’t shoot any slower, need heavier pellets or more air. So at least this is the best it has ever shot and man it is hard to get used to no safety.
MAW,
I hope you got the bird fixed man. The safety is a issue. The safety on mine was never good for a reliable trigger. I did make the safety on mine for a while where I could roll the lever to the side through the bottom part of the frame, this would keep it from being automatic and for shooting at the bench round after round, worked fine, but never helped with the trigger issues these rifles all have.
The OEM trigger parts are very hard. Mine was so hard they developed hair line cracks in them in the loaded up stress points. Really nasty looking things. Scarred me to death when I saw mine. Thats when I made my own parts for the trigger…
Now on the pins for these, there was more than a few locals bring there rifles to me when they drove the pins out the wrong way. That really will make a huge mess of things. They need to come out one way and go back in the same. Keeping the pin indexed to that one side of the frame…
AF does have these all going in on one side of the frame also, least the rifles I have had my hands on do. You can put the pins in from either side, but its best to only drive them in on the same side for the staked tail side of the pin lodges itself in the frame and anchors in by denting the frame hole for the pins…
Dry moly spray on the trigger parts will work to help keep all this lubed, then to silicone grease the breech slide and the necked down area of the barrel, will have that lubed for the drag issue of the small O-Rings inside the breech slide. Then a shot of more of the dry moly to the hammer and the threads on the power wheel will get that in good shape. Then you only have the tank valve to address the same way. It should get a little silicone grease to the valve stem and the valve body where it slides.
Then at this point you have the mechanics of the rifle lube tuned, any of the issues you have at this point will be the setup issues with the desired power level you wish, and the mechanics of the trigger parts and how they work in relation to each other and the weight from the hammer pushing against the sear ramp…
Its a little hair pulling till you really get a handle on how the trigger was designed to actually work. Little changes can make really big changes in the end results also LOL… You end up going back in the trigger, I would be for inspecting those parts really close around the area of the pin holes and the load areas of the designed affect they were after at AF when they cut these…
Me myself, think they used way to thin of material to begin with and its way to hard, then the way they cut these all out with the pin holes all left open, instead of a nice drilled hole is all about speed and productivity, nothing to do with quality. Damn shame, the trigger and the safety on any rifle should not have that focus as a goal, unless its a toy firearm and only those toys sold at Walmart LOL…
I have made sears for my Condor that would hold back the 110 gram hammer while a spring almost strong enough to go under a truck for suspension, was cocked and had the hammer loaded up to be fired lol…
Messed with different springs on the trigger assembly also, you can build the three components and use the stock AF springs, and have it work… The problem with the trigger parts and how much time I have put in the trigger assembly I made, I would have to sale these three parts for 100 bucks apiece just to get close to the time and hair pulling experience I had with this assembly LOL… This design in how the trigger was to work, was done so and while it works somewhat, is a poor attempt at a design to begin with.
Sorry your having so much trouble with yours, and I only hope you can make this all work for you. Just one focus for you in this effort you have, make certain beyond any doubt that while you have the rifle cocked, you can’t bang the sides, bottom or top of the rifle; nor the bottom of the tank and get it to unload(Fire)!!! All this best checked with the rifle without a pellet and any body parts in front of the muzzle end of the firearm, just the blast of air like this could cut you wide open or put out an eye…
Heck, I can remember several times while messing around with many a stronger hammer spring, have the hammer released on my finger while I was loading a pellet !!! Yes I did bang on the two sides, top and bottom of the rifle as well as drop the cocked rifle on its tank to make sure it wasn’t going to misfire early or when I was not wanting to fire the rifle. Then to have the rifle just all of a sudden fire the hammer while I had my finger and thumb with a pellet between them, at the point where the hammer smashed the heck out of them LOL… NOT GOOD
Just be careful man while your tinkering with these issues is all I am trying to say and the importance they have…
Good Luck and let us know how you fair with all this…
That seer was like untouchable, I don’t know if I got any off or not, I couldn’t phase it, I did take alittle off the spring probably not enough and the pins can be a little bitch to get back in, I said screw the safety,it was probably the problem anyways, or else someone made a bad seer, I got the handle on but man I need a long ass allen to get it real tight, or get a reg. screw at home depot. we will see tomarrow if it shoots any better.
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Well 1200 pellets later shootin 1 holers at 30-35yrds