Q:

centering crosshairs/scope w/ mirror?

has anyone done this? ,,, remember read once about centering scopes cross hairs using mirror…i hve RWS 34…WAS very accurate…its a breah barrel…let my dumbass brother shoot…well he tryed cocking gun over his knee b4 i could stop him..well barrel stuck..took apart put it back together now it works…but now accuracy is toast..removed muzzle break..still shit.@ 15meters throws pellets all over…bench rest used… cant see how the knee cocking..would effect poi at all??during this i had droped scope bout 2 foot fall to grass…SOOoo..i scearh of problem…thought maybe scope was problem…i have lowest setting on scope…bout 1 foot from mirror..crosshairs way off..the “reflected’ view shows hairs left and high does anyone know process w/ mirror the aline hairs….THANKS guys for any help you can PM me..if not wishing to take fourm space

Optics/Nightvision

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i agree ..when he cocked it over his knee..or better tried to.. it stuck…[break barrel] …all i can say when i got it free..it now sprays pellets…as for the return hopeing you wont tell them 😀 it has life time warrenty..about 1200 shots through it…i can dream right…thanks ..i enjoy your post and your humor also 😯 tezzfla

as for the parallx issue if scope hais are not alinged that would ,maybe cause a parallax issue…just a thought…still reading all i can about parallax,,, always learning or trying to..need to learn to spell though 😀

dropping the scope? now that is news to me.
How can you expect someone to exchange a rifle your brother screwed up? and likely it is just a ruined scope.

Have you tried with iron sights? Breaking the gun open over the knee should not hurt it.

Hope you get it sorted out. Sounds like you had a nice shooting rifle there

walter…i was tryig to figure accuracy issues.i had droped the scope and had read a few post about this process…of adjusting cross hairs w/ mirror but didnt remember it all having read too many different idesa of HOW to do it..so i asked you knowledgeable people about it…as for the accaury of my RWS34 pro model it is a tack driver and ,off a rest b4 my brother had tried cocking rifle over his knee..then also droping scope…I woulld get 10 shots at 30 meters…that could be covered by a dime maybe nickle size w/ a couple ‘flyiers’..the rilfe can shoot better than either you or i can…no doubt …they just take at alot of time and efffort{ springers in general}…finding that sweet spot where it likes to rest pellet type and weight etc…but i am SURE you know this but alas …i am not getting this same acccuray anymore… now it SUCKS for lack of better word,,,hoping they replace it or repair it w/o chargine me ..as it is fairly new and coon shit i cant say… never spent to much time w/ it …again thanks

quote tezzfla:

thanks guys…i myself found the scope somewhat off… not as much as I thought at first..because I had scope about 1 foot from mirror.. placed it against mirror and adjusted it from there..got them lined up …now I know scope is aligned..should also help with parallax issues..maybe…cool stuff thanks..even walter 🙂

After you have done this and remounted the scope, please come back and tell us who’s advice made a pinch of coonshit difference in the shooting of your 34 springer.

How exactly will that help parallax issues?

Again I say it was a hyped up wasted effort.

Not having a thick mirror, I found by setting the mirror in direct sunlight I was finally able to see the reflection of the cross hair.

An alternate method I’ve used involves placing the scope on two sturdy “V” notches, focus on a point at some distance, turning the scope 1/2-1 turn and adjusting the turrets until the Target spot stays centered throughout rotation. This method took longer but I didn’t have to wait for the sun to shine on my mirror. A cardboard box did not work well for me.

thanks guys…i myself found the scope somewhat off… not as much as I thought at first..because I had scope about 1 foot from mirror.. placed it against mirror and adjusted it from there..got them lined up …now I know scope is aligned..should also help with parallax issues..maybe…cool stuff thanks..even walter 🙂

(Another benefit of the scope being centered before mounting is you will quickly know if you are mounting it vertically over the bore, and straight down the barrel. A scope mounted to sight across the bore horizontally will have windage issues at other-than-zero range. You can’t tell if you are mounting it straight if you don’t know where the reticle is to begin with.)

I agree, my gun had an adjustable scope mount. Just because the scope and POI cross each other at 40yards, it does not meen they will again intersect at other ranges. Damn thing caused me all kinda problems, took it off and put a regular 1″ set on gun..much better. For 10minutes of work..why not?

Here is the original article…not mine

Optically center your scope easily – with a mirror!
poste by: J. Bruce Aurand

I have posted this elsewhere but not here, and I see that the subject of optically centering a scope comes up once in a while, so thought I would post it here also.

I used this mirror technique on my 2 spare scopes, a Bushnell Banner 3×9 and an Optronics 4x. It took me less than 3 minutes from removing the caps on the adjustment knobs to centering BOTH scopes!. I also have checked my 3 other scopes and did so while they were still on the guns!

I used a 4″ mirrored candle coaster that had fairly thick glass to do this. Also, good lighting makes all the difference when doing this.
I found by experimenting that up to a point, the thicker the glass is, the better, you not only get more light in to see what you are doing, but the farther out you are from the mirror surface (which is actually on the back side of the mirror glass), the more it amplifies the deviation.
I also found that you need to hold firmly to the end of the scope on the glass because any little movement causes the image to shake.

With that said, you will need to also remove any rubber pads that might be on the bottom of the coaster. Best thing is, you can get these things cheap at any Walmart, Goodwill, Hallmark, or candle store…. etc., and you will not have to cut any glass or worry about sharp edges! I also found that clear plastic gives a false image, so use glass.
You might even be able to find a make-up mirror that will work, but I don’t think that the “magnified” sides of those types of mirrors will work for this.

Edit – this portion was added to the original message to keep it all together.

Place the mirror on a sturdy table then place the scope on top of the mirror with the eyepiece up. Then look through the eyepiece and observe the image.

You will see the crosshairs and you should also see a reflection of the crosshairs as well. All you have to do is to turn each of the knobs until they match up perfectly! It is that simple! Very effective, fast and easy to explain and to setup etc.

A similar mirror technique is used to align telescopes.

Give it a try! You can also place 3 washers on the glass to raise the scope up a bit to increase the amplification of the alignment difference. Just place them so that the end of the scope is firmly on them and is stable. It won’t matter if they protrude into the image.

I don’t buy it.

The recticle actually moves very little inside the scope and there is no way that the optics are degraded 1/8″ off from ‘optimum’

The shimming may cause more stress on the tube than it’s worth.

Sorry especially for the OP this is a total waste of time.

BTW if you want to do the mirror thing just take the scope off the gun and set the objective bell down on the mirror. Look into the scope and you will see two crosshair images. Move to align as required.

Waste of time on a RWS34 spring gun that sprays pellets.

Sorry, Voltar, I have to kindly disagree.

Getting the crosshairs centered optically allows for the clearest, least distorted view through the scope.

The idea is to mount the scope as close to sighted-in as possible and use the clicks (hopefully only a very few) to get your windage exact. This can be done with shims or a windage adjustable mount.

Another benefit of the scope being centered before mounting is you will quickly know if you are mounting it vertically over the bore, and straight down the barrel. A scope mounted to sight across the bore horizontally will have windage issues at other-than-zero range. You can’t tell if you are mounting it straight if you don’t know where the reticle is to begin with.

Regards,
Jim

_/\_Makes sense only if you’re using windage/elevation adjustable base/rings. I would want the scope centered so I could center the adjustments on the base/rings. Then I would proceed to Zero the rifle using both scope and base/rings as needed.

.If you try to Zero the with scope and base/rings off center, you could run out of adjustment on either.

.I have never had optical center and zero be one and the same!

Sam 🙂

I think you are suppost to put the mirror right on the end of the scope, use rubber bands or painters tape. You then need to put a real bright light real close to the mirror…then you align both sets of crosshairs.

Set scope on its lowest magnification.

The only reason to do this is to take the best advantage of the optics, something about the lens being best in the center of the lens. Your gonna tweak it around anyhow, bit its nice to start at the best place. If your real far off, you could add a shim to stay in the optimum part of the lens.

I see no point in this excercise.
once the scope is mounted you must adjust/sight in anyways.

never did understand the hype. the turrets are there to use.

tazzfla,

Sounds like you are ready to adjust the turrets. Just start cranking until there is only one reticle visible, ie, they are aligned.

Jim

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