Cocking bolt "tunnel" ridged (not smooth). Normal?
i noticed cocking action was not as smooth as it should be.
i’ve disassembled it and noticed it is “raw” finished, not polished, and with visible ridges, as if it would have needed a bit of sand paper.
the actuall bolt shaft is fairly fine, with some ridges but not that much.
is this normal?
I don’t think this has been caused by use/wear, as the ridged area is present thoughout the whole tunnel, even at the front, where the bolt slims down and doesn’t actually reach/rub, hence can’t cause any wear.
pics below.
any ideas?
thanks
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its up to you….it’ll put me closer to the top of the list, so…i guess a thank you is in order
guys you can tape the leading edge of the sand paper to your drill bit or a wooden dowel, wrap the paper around and run this in your drill to polish.
i do it all the time, it makes a flapper of sorts , and you can put what ever grit paper you want on it, or cut a shaft down the middle and slide the paper in that way, i have both
I have one on order and up to reading some topic in this forum I was looking forward to a well made rifle and did not mind paying the price but know I am not sure what will arrive. looks like I will have to be ready for some work to finish it off. Not had to do this with any other air rifle I have bought and I have 12. Keeping my fingers cross for luck.
I just emailed tony rudenko in miami florida, and had him put me on the waiting list for the .22 r3 long matador, and after reading the posts, and seeing those pix, im starting to think about not getting one of these guns.
Syn
that was the great Haley debacle with Tof’s rifles
I have a JH .452 that while finely finished does have a couple rough edges no doubt
seemed to be mainly an issue a few years back in his production.
have to say, I have yet to see a DAQ with chatter down the bore of the breech or anywhere for that matter
I don’t know if this might be of help.
After i removed that tight allen bolt, i noticed a fine black powder in its thread, that smelt “funny”.
I didn’t heat anything as mine came out just using my brutal overwhelming force. 😉
I think that “black powder” came from the threadlocker……. 😉
You must be a veeeery strong man !!!! 😀
Question if I may…
I noted Yoda’s rifle is marked as made in Estonia, what is yours marked?
Reason I ask is that you are both in Europe, Norway and the UK and was wondering if this issue may be particular to the Estonian rifles?
not sure whether Ed was just assembling parts in Estonia or if things like the Breech were being actually manufactured outside of Russia
it’s all open to speculation
My two R3s are both made i Russia………. 😉
I don’t think parts are actually being made outside Russia yet (apart from barrels), – but I don’t know……..
Cheers….. 😀
Does anyone own a Quacken bush or an XP that they can show a picture and see if that is normal ? Just the bolt or slide picture would be fine.
There was a case a while back, can’t remember the name of the maker of the bigbore but it looked like it was made with a rock and an axe (somewhat of a joke but not really).
After waiting nearly a year to get the poorly machined rifle the owner decided not to send it back to the person who initially hacked it out of metal and fixed the parts himself. A couple of others took their rifles apart and found some less than nice things inside and many others simply didn’t care or were unwilling to strip their rifles down to parts to find out.
Short answer is, yes, these things have happened before. 😉
Zooloco:
Question if I may…
I noted Yoda’s rifle is marked as made in Estonia, what is yours marked?
Reason I ask is that you are both in Europe, Norway and the UK and was wondering if this issue may be particular to the Estonian rifles?
not sure whether Ed was just assembling parts in Estonia or if things like the Breech were being actually manufactured outside of Russia
it’s all open to speculation
My new .25 R3 Long is maked made in Russia and is very smooth in cocking however I’ve not tore it down yet either
and a tip on slotting that allen bolt
use a conventional dremel cut off disc, yes the thin fragile one
the trick is to thinnly coat the disc with cyronacalate/super glue with a fine modeling brush and let dry first
this hardens the thinner discs a very great deal and allows one to cut a reasonable slot
Zocoloco
I don’t know if this might be of help.
After i removed that tight allen bolt, i noticed a fine black powder in its thread, that smelt “funny”.
I didn’t heat anything as mine came out just using my brutal overwhelming force. 😉
Looks great Yoda, – well done…….. 😀
Hopefully the ID has not changed too much….!
I am a bit worried about that particular part. It doesn’t take a lot to change it beyond repair….. 😉
A quick update on mine…..
Spent some time with Egon in his workshop today trying to get the alenscrew out….
We used a blowtorch to heat up the tip of an allen key until glowing read before we inserted into the stripped screwhead:
– and tried to heat it up that way…….
No luck at all…….
Even with best of tools, – that screw would not move……
Then we tried to cut a groove for a flat screwdriver, but realized that the tools we had available would not be suitable……:
I need a thinner grinding disk with a bigger diameter so tomorrow off to the hardware store…….
I wonder if a Dremel with a sutiable disk could do the job……. ??? 🙄
That said, we applied som white lithium grease to the bolt. I have also filed down the edge of the “disk” that guides the metal lump forward towards the front breech block. That’s where the ball bearing of the lump has to “jump” to get into position before you rotate and lock the bolt.
Put the gun back together and it is a lot better/smoother operating now, – but far from perfect. Compared it to Egon’s newly developed all stainless steel BSA hybrid (partly seen in the middle picture), – and was not happy. Egon’s new creation is probably having the smoothest cocking action I’ve ever seen……
I’ll post pictures of this creation in another thread when time comes…..
Going back to my summerhouse in a few days to shoot more…….
Spending all this time “fixing” a brand new gun is not really what I wanted the most…. 😉
I was very close to put down a deposit on one till I looked at this thread. I’m hoping that Ed will step in here and make it right.
But right now my M-Rod seems to be smoother and have cleaner surfaces, I hate to say that. Considering I was think harder about ordering one.
Does anyone own a Quacken bush or an XP that they can show a picture and see if that is normal ? Just the bolt or slide picture would be fine. Mine looks perfectly smooth on the Corseair. ❓
I have a real old swedish Mouser that I got from Roses 6.5MM and it shoots a exelant group at 100 yards, and the bolt is loose but it is a war time Gun made and customised for hunting. The rest of my guns are tight.
Once again Ed is only one person, And I understand he had a lot of orders and maybe more pending, so He might need to do like the rest and take a few orders and when he is done, take a few more,My suggestion would be like DQ and XP and pick names from a mailing list when he opens it and make those guns for people so everyone would have a chance to own a Ed Gun made like Ed used to make em. ❓
And for THAT price!
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My thanks too!!!