Condor Bolt Issue
So my Condor bolt moves from the locked position to the middle position (unlocked) when fired. I don’t think this is normal is it? It is also wearing some of the metal on the frame.
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Seems to be the best solution (will try first steel on the cup to keep its resistance).
Thanks!
If you are worried about the Delrin strength make a aluminum cup .070″ thick and put delrin in side. Then put your hole and o ring grooves in it.
This is the way my .308 is. On my .257 I have a separate cocking knob so the breech is just open and close and can be aluminum.
+1
So true.
Delrin is the best breech material. It slides on the barrel the best and makes the gun cock the easiest with heavy hammer springs. I have tried brass and aluminum. Aluminum scratches the barrel when you start using heavier spring and have more cocking effort.
If you are worried about the Delrin strength make a aluminum cup .070″ thick and put delrin in side. Then put your hole and o ring grooves in it.
This is the way my .308 is. On my .257 I have a separate cocking knob so the breech is just open and close and can be aluminum.
I want one too 🙁
Aesthetically beautiful, but I’m still adjusting. The breech slide is also steel (much more resistant, but a little heavy and the gun looses power). Will try a heavier hammer (currently using a 100 grams brass hammer, not heavy enough for my purposes). Otherwise will try an alluminium breech slide. Also waiting for TT High Performance Top Hat to arrive.
I did the same thing but made the gun a side cocker.
It was my first attempt, didn’t want to make an agressive modification (left enough space to cock with the thumb tip, not a problem as you get used to it). No doubt that ergonomically a side cocker would be better.
Steel on steel, much more resistant (but, yes, it makes noise). Will try the delrin cushion.
In time, you just made a fantastic work on your Condor.
Thank you for the comments!
I’d love a description of how that works Bob. That is once you get caught up on answering PMs.
I want one too 🙁
You must have some real small fingers to be able to cock that.
I did the same thing but made the gun a side cocker.
Also you still have metal on metal when the breech returns. Best if you have a piece of Delrin as a cushion. This is on my .257 and have a few thousand rounds through it and still on the original collar.
I also opened up the original slot from .265″ to .400″ for the larger collar.
Sorry pics are out of my phone and won’t post right side up.
The idea was Inspired on Dyotat100’s customization (frame reinforcement, in this post: http://www.talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=21357).
His parts were made of aluminium. In this case I used steel.
Thanks I’m looking for different Ideas to set my gun apart from everyone else 😀
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The idea was Inspired on Dyotat100’s customization (frame reinforcement, in this post: http://www.talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=21357).
His parts were made of aluminium. In this case I used steel.
Damn dude is that a personal design or did someone else do it it looks beautiful
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My solution to prevent the problem (also considering aesthetic purposes):
I don’t like that eather. i;m takeing a small square nut, drilling out the threads to fit over the nonthreaded part of the bolt nob and glue it in place.. clean up and debur it, sand down the sidesof the nut to fit the cocking slot. Only issue may be is how far you have top hat setting.
Whomever he is, I think he needs to cut back on his caffiene.
You should listen to this guy. I think he knows his stuff 😎
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There is nothing wrong with a delrin breech for .25. The problem could start with the larger calibers. My .257 is Delrin and the hole through the breech is .378″ instead of .312″.
.308 is .432″ so things are a lot thinner. I’m still on my original breech though.
Next .308 will have seperate cocking knob so I can use aluminum. Don’t have any problems with the delrin on the .257 so not going to mess with it for now.