Condor Bolt Issue
So my Condor bolt moves from the locked position to the middle position (unlocked) when fired. I don’t think this is normal is it? It is also wearing some of the metal on the frame.
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if you move out your tophat so its a snug fit when the bolt is locked in place it will not do that
when the bolt is locked in place it should not be able to wiggle back and forth
😉 😀
Yea, I have both of the tubing. Actually I have the softer plastic fish tank tubing and also the refrigerator tubing that is harder. I will give that a shot.
One thing that helps, as WOK posted a long time ago, is use refrigarator
Ice Maker line to replace the thin soft plastic sleve AF puts on the screw where it is eating up the frame.
I tried it about a year or two ago, and it is still holding strong. 😉
Lowe’s and Home Depot both carry it in long coils. And it’s cheap! 😀
KnifeMaker
i can not recommend tighter orings, orings change hardness with temperature…so friction will change with temperature change, in cold temps the breech wont move properly and the power will drop dramatically….heck my condor would go from 60 fpe at 60+f to pellet rolling out of barrel around 35f
the breech is part of the firing mechanism, and gets pushed backwards by the hammer and pushes on the valvestem letting out air
as the air rushes out the orings seals by getting pushed inbetween the breech and barrel (very little) and this causes increase friction between barrel and breech….the valve snapping closed does so with great force, forcing the breech forward…on some modded AF guns so much that the breech actually comes off the tophat for a fraction of a second, before hammer and spring pushes it back in place…..this is why its so important to lean the cocking handle to one or the other side, so the frame stops the breech from being pushed forward….and is also why you see the wear you do…the frame is made by soft aluminum so it gets hit by that round screw, rounding the corners on the frame…if they had just made the plastic collar square there would be a larger surface for the collar to push on the frame
the problem you are seing happens to just about all Af rifles, especially the ones with tophats far out, which makes the handle only lean a bit to one or the other side, further rounding the edges
upping power or going bigbore just makes the problem worse ….
The only real fix is to machine the notches bigger. I make them a .500″ long so the bolt is against the thick part of the frame instead of the corner of the thinnest part.
Well I will tell you what purpose it serves on mine, just frame damage lol. They need to fix that.
BTW If you don’t want the bolt handle to strike the frame, don’t lock the bolt, leave the bolt handle at the 12 O’clock position. I don’t see what purpose locking the bolt serves in the first place!
Mine has a metal bushing, but if it beats the frame up much more, there isn’t going to be any frame left……
Thanks for the input guys.
Yep, same happen to my condor. They use a metal loom now that won’t break, just bashes frame.
That’s what I’ll call a “normal abnormality.” That used to happen on the Condor I had. The plastic loom that covered the screw broke and that would be the result. I used to constantly replace them but gave up after they kept getting chewed up. Airforce should do something about that problem. I have a feeling that if Airforce redesigned the gun to eliminate the bolt from moving during the shot cycle accuracy would be improved. Of course, that’s if the other quirks the guns have are also sorted out.
Looks like normal break in to me 😛 Put a rubber bushing on the bolt handle, worked for me! 😆 You may want to change the breech O rings, that would tighten breech, if yours flops about…!
I’ve noticed the same thing with my 3 day old Condor SS. I figured it was
one of those AF quirks. If i put the bolt on the opposite side ( right for me)
it seems to move a lot less. Just my 2 cents.
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But then you’ve lost any and all tune. 😯