customized Talon P

I used high rings but don’t feel right, going to try the Med’s.

I shot my tank empty, than put tank in vise and use a big pipe wrench. Just wrap with a towel so you don’t damage it.

You have a point.

I’ve removed such valves “manually”, but the tank must be completely emptied first. After draining the tank, first try unscrewing the valve by hand. Grip the bottle using a common rubber non-slip kitchen lid remover material. Sometimes you just get lucky!

If that fails, try a pair of vice-grips by wrapping the valve edge with a piece of leather, or other thick material, and carefully applying pressure counter clockwise. If the tank slips in your hand then put it in a bench vice… wrapped in thick material, or leather.

I believe the big problem will be the small diameter of the valve. Hard to grip. I also suggest running some very hot water over the bottle neck first. The aluminum neck will expand before the valve, so you have a small window of time to grip and twist the valve before the valve begins to expand too. Be certain the bottle is completely empty first. I’ve also put it in the freezer and allowed the bottle/valve threads to shrink. Alternating between very hot and cold can sometimes break the threads loose. Be certain to allow the tank to return to normal temperatures before changing temperature extremes. Too sudden a change can cause problems. I just ran faucet water over it first. Aluminum returns to ambient temperatures quickly when water is run over it.

If none of that works, check out the nearest paintball shop and ask if they have a removal tool.

Sometimes those threads just won’t come loose without a tool and brute force as well. Let’s hope you are one of the lucky ones.

H 😯 😯 t

Get a valve removal tool from marmot_militia.com for a few bucks… Otherwise you will likely hog up your valve!

To empty the tank you can shoot it empty. There are other methods but not I wouldn’t recommend them. They require brute force.

H 😯 😯 t

Barrel length has no effect on sound of discharge.

H 😯 😯 t

It looks good to me. But consider that I only have 21 appendages to count on, so my math is sometimes suspect.

If correct, and only a chrony will tell the tale, that would be a very sweet setup!!!

Kind regards,

Uncle H 😯 😯 t

High energy shots = high air consumption. That likely is why your shot count began its descent quickly…a 13 to 22 ci tank is limited to how much volume of air consumption it can maintain per shot.

Evanix guns do this. They are built for power hunting. Their shot fps/fpe start high, and drop with each shot. All you need to do is count shots to see how many you get before your point of impact starts to drop down. As long as the pellet goes in the same hole, the target won’t care. The game won’t care, as long as the fpe is sufficient to kill it. The only concern you have is counting shots until you know you will begin to lose your aim point. Then you go to mil-dot aiming, or simply refill the tank.

A longer barrel, in this instance, would extend the shot count by making better use of the air for each shot. Ideally, fps in the mid to upper 800’s is ideal and would keep your fpe closer to 50-60 fpe.

69 fpe is insanely powerful. Nice to have available if needed, but best if dialed back for accuracy and shot count. I love a gun with too much power. They can be reduced, but turned back up when needed. Lesser guns can only reach their peak and go no further. Having a reserve of power is just like money in a savings account. It’s normally not used, but there if needed.

Sounds like you have a fun gun there! FPS doesn’t mean all that much with solid lead slugs, like the six ring. They hit like sledge hammers at speeds considered marginal for light pellets. Their heavier mass carries a LOT of momentum at lower speeds. On impact, all that energy has to be transferred somewhere…which unfortunately for the game getting shot, is their body mass. Quick clean kills.

Enjoy!

Regards,

H 😯 😯 t

It doesn’t take much. Just the tip of the barrel is involved.